kmack

For those that may be following this thread... I have gotten my new tires on the car and the tracking problem has went away. So I can only chaulk it up to different size tires and different tread designs. I currently have 250/60 R14 tires on the car. I guess having a 215 series tire compounds the tracking problem due to the larger contact patch. FWIW....

Victor, As for the gas tank sending unit, it can be removed while the tank is in the car. Just use a screwdriver to remove the holding ring, and it'll all pop right out. As for the camber issue, there are a few ways to correct this. The cheapest is to replace the control arm bushings with an adjustable cam-type bushing. They usualy run about $80-$100 for the set (front) and about the same for the rear. The next way would be to buy camber plates for the top of the strut towers. MSA has some now that are $100 for a front set and $100 for a rear set. These 2 ways will give you up to 1-1/2 * of adjustment. You'll also hear about people that have slotted out the mounting holes where the strut mounts into the tower. I don't like this option personally. Or you can hunt down some stock springs and replace the whole thing.

Anybody have any good ideas or tips on removing the carbon build up in the combustion chamber and ports of a head? I'm trying to clean up my E31 head and I need to remove the carbon build up on it. I have tried a wax/grease remover (like PrepSol) which works, but it takes lots of rubbing and lots of time. Plus I can't reach very well into the tight areas. I know a screwdriver would work but I'd prefer not the scratch up the chambers. I guess I could always take it to a shop and have them dip it, but that would cost money I don't have right now. Any DYI tips or suggestions?

Anybody see this Rally Clock for the Z's on Ebay? If it still works, it'd be a real find! Rally Clock

kmack, came from the last job I had working at an research facility testing engines and transmissions. One of the other techs, Buz (now a very good friend of mine), started calling me by my last name (which I don't like when people do that). So I told him to think of something better or call me by my first name. Being the stuborn arse that he is, he just started calling me 'kmack.' I actually kind of liked it. It's got a short and quick snap to it and it has stuck for the last 11 years. Kenneth Mack

Depends on what valve seats you currently have in the car. If you have the brass seats, then you'll need to replace them with the steel seats. I have an original motor for my '71 240 (1/71) that I'm rebuilding right now. I thought I would have to replace the seats on mine, thinking I had the brass ones. After pulling the valves, it turns out that I already have the steel seats in the head (E31). You just need to check and see what's in there already.

Many people have installed fuel cells into their cars (mainly for racing though). So it can be done, but there will be modifications that need to be made for it all to fit. And I'm not sure of the legallity for street use. I'd check with a few racing shops on that part of it. As for stock tanks, the gas tank is pretty much the same for all cars from '70-'76. (I sold a tank from a '76 280 for use in a '72 240 and it worked out fine for the guy.)

You should be able to buy just the bleeder nipples by themselves at any auto parts store. Short of that, Pegasus racing sells them. But you had better make sure that you can get the old broken one out of the wheel cylinder first. The last time I tried this, I ended up ruining the cylinder and had to buy a new one. If this happens and you have to buy a new one, make sure you get the correct one for you car. The rear wheel brake cylinders changed around '72 and the hard brake line enters into the cylinder from a different angle. There was a discussion on the email list a few days ago about the early cylinders being NLA. Just food for thought....

A good looking woman deserves to be looked at! It's like a compliment. And my goal in life is to become a "dirty old man!" They can get away with a lot more than I can right now.

An early Maxima engine will work in a Z (they are the same block), but keep in mind that a 280 is a 2.8L and the Maximas are a 2.4L If you're worried about "ancient parts", it won't take more than a few hundred $$ in parts to rebuild a 2.8L, and the lower ends on theses motors are all but indestructable.

I guess I shouldn't tell you guys that I have a pair of those sitting in a box not being used right now...:tapemouth

I don't have any strut bars, but I did fashion up a body brace that doubles as a harness mounting bar. It ties into the body just in front of the rear struts. It does stiffen the body some but I haven't really pushed the car hard enough to tell how much. I will within the next month or so. If anybody would like me to make them one, let me know. I haven't worked out any prices yet.

Quick question for you guys that have rebuilt your motors... My manual says that when installing the rear main bearing cap "the corners...should have an application of jointing compound..." at the 90* bends where the cap sits. I understand all this, but what is jointing compound? When I go to PepBoys or Advance, what should I be looking for specifically?

MX5 would be what we call Miata here in the States, correct? This might be something worth looking into for me.

South Texas, San Antonio to be exact. I voted for Midwest because I guess that's the closest. But there really should have been a category for Texas by itself. We're like our own little country anyway! California should have gotten it's own category, too.

beandip, Some of us have been in your shoes, and we definitely know how you feel. My car sat in my garage as a shell for over 3 years while I waited to get money and time to finish working on it. Total time from purchase to first drive was nine years! Yes that's right, I bought my car and immediately tore it down and got started. That was in '93. I got to drive it for the first time in June of '02! Hang in there, it's all worth it. Just make sure that on the days you can't work on her, you go out to the garage and sit with her. Tell her you won't stop working to get her back on the road. That there might be some delays, but you won't forget the fun you've had in the past. Those days will come again and you'll both feel better in the long run. I still can't drive my car as much as I'd like to, but at least I head out into the garage at night and sit with my girl. We both spend about 15 minutes pretend driving.... Call me crazy :stupid: but these cars have that effect on me. And she sits patiently by my side while I slowly put her new "heart" back together. I'm currently rebuilding the original engine for transplant next month! I can't wait...

Thanks for the info, Royce. Does anybody know which whould be a better cam out of the list that Royce provided? On the intake/exhaust durations, is it better to have a longer duration or a shorter one? What about the lift?

Use a good sized rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer and tap on the sides of the head. At first it will sound solid, then you'll hear a somewhat hollow sound. the head will then be loose enough to pick it up off the block.