Ben

What can I say that hasn't already been said? More beautiful prints courtesy Mr. Alan Thomas! I'm currently in the early stages of planning a holiday to Japan (it could be a year away). But most importantly, the other-half has fully endorsed the participation of numerous automotive events during the trip. I can't wait!

If this is the real deal (and I for one believe that it is), then who was the individual in NDA who decided that they would get their revenge on Matsuo san & the rest of the RHD world? Great to see that you asked the question when you had the chance Alan!

Welcome! Most of the talk about Princes' & the early Nissan Skylines has been of the 'we want one' category. Glad you can join us, and with such an impressive collection too!

I wonder if that Glenn guy is related to me? Anyhow, I have an 'almost' stock Skyline (the only driveline mods are; Unifilter Element, VL-T3 compressor cover, and a 90ft/lbs breakaway diff. As it is I have wheelspin issues in 1st, and that's at 6psi boost! (The only other mod it will get is a better-than-oem exhaust system) I expect ath the L28 was more likely a L32 and was spinning to 8000rpm+, but I'll get a copy of the mag & have a read for sure.

Schooners it is.... But more often it's Pints

Ok, now is a good time to start from scratch & get the timing 100% correct. Remove the rocker cover & get the engine at verified TDC compression #1. Check your cam timing marks. Remove the dizzy & confim that the drive is in the correct (11:25) position. If not, sort it (drop the pump & re-align). Then check you plug wire orientation on the cap: 1-5-3-6-2-4 Re-assemble everything, disable the fuelling system & crank the engine with the plugs out & a timing light attached to #1. Verify that you are happy with the timing (anywhere between 10 & 20 deg advanced will do at this stage!). You should now be confident that you have a strong spark, occuring at the right time, so you can move on to fuelling issues. And since I don't know how to spell 'Edelbrock' or 'Holley' this is where I bail out

aRCH-Z, if you had a 240Z you'd be well aware of the living with an MPH speedo situation As for your tacho (bearing in mind that it contains the indicator pilot lamps), I'm just getting mine modified to suit my MSD ignition. So you could do likewise to suit the tacho output of your ECU (stock, or aftermarket).

An indicator-switch rebuild kit you say? This I have to investigate! (I too have the 'indicate-right-damn-you!' problem with my switch)

I'm 99% sure that fitting an RB26DETT will require engineering here in SA. But don't take my word for it, ask the technical section at TSA Regency Park (1300 882 248). An RB20DET will also probably require an engineers certificate, as I know that an RB25DE requires an AIP (approval in priciple), and that has 20kW less than an RB20DET. For an RB26DETT conversion, you should budget around $10k for a 'basic' setup. An RB20/5DET could probably be done for around 1/2 that, and the RB20/5DE for a less again. If you plan on using a non-turbo engine, then the RB25DE is really the only choice, as the RB20DE will have no more grunt than a very mild L28E.

I use my work e-mail address as my MSN address, so I'd rather not post it in an 'open' forum. However, anyone who wants it can PM me, or if I add you into my contact list you'll get it anyway!

The rats-nest that is the interior.... Once I get all this sorted, I'll get back to plotting my new motor design. It could be a few months before I get really stuck into it though.

Not yet, I'm trying to concentrate on getting the car inspected & running before the end of the year.... As you can see, there is still plenty to be done in the engine bay & with the wiring.

I'd say so, even if you consumed 100% more fuel, it's still a low overall flow rate (compared to EFI or Turbocharging).