montoya_fan01

and before you start throwing "standard" bearings in it, you might want to make sure that there are no problems with the crankshaft that require machine work and over/under size bearings. Heck, if you're going to rebuild it, why not do it the right way and have the block & crankshaft hot tanked and fully serviced by a competant machine shop. No use in doing a half-assed rebuild now, and another one in a couple years.

Wanna Buy a Couple of Cars?

yeah, there is a vinyl piece that is glued to the interior of the rocker panel. it extends down to the floor pan

I don't think you glue it down. On the cars I have owned (240Z) the carpet lays on top of the padding. No glue, no nothing, it just lays there. It doesn't get tucked under the scuff plates either, it just lays there. On a 73 that I owned the driverside carpet had 2 snaps built into the front which snapped onto the firewall up under the pedals.

You could be right about at least part of that line of thought. In the US, the 240z WAS an "underdog" in many of the classes it was raced in. The "Porch" 911 boys were particularly pissed that a car that sold for under $4K regularly waxed their........errr, well, I'll let that one go without saying.

yeah, got one stuck in my bryan!

So, because of the perceived audience for the book John should have written something thqat he didn't believe was true? Bull$hit! You are taking this way too seriously. It's not like he called YOU a name. Sure you wouldn't have phrased it like he did, you wouldn't (maybe even COULDN'T)have driven like it he did either. He's EARNED the right to say whatever he wants to say about it. Afterall it's from HIS perspective, not yours, mine, theirs, or anybody else's.

John M. said the very same things in a talk he gave at the ZONC All Datsun meet at Blackhawk museum in 2004. No one in the audience seemed to be upset or offended by his words.

about 1/4". either you aren't sucking hard enough, or the vac advance plate may be buggered. dist shft bushings can go bad. you might want to look into a rebuilt dist from Nissan. last time I checked it was around $160 from Courtesy Nissan in TX. comes complete w/ cap, points, rotor, vac advance. all you need to do is swap the base from your old one and BAM, just like new.

I might be interested. send me a PM. How much d you want? what do you think shipping would be to CA?

Just received a huge shipment! Availabe for any car model. Customize your car and gain downforce. Endorsed by US Forest Service Available in 20 different colors. Ready for immediate shipment. PayPal accepted.

Now don't make me use one of Vics fingers

Tonka Toy truck

we should hook up. When I turn my car off, it goes PONG, Get it? Ping...........Pong. Oh, nevermind.

too many variables (What does "modified" mean? Modified HOW MUCH?), not to mention internet bragging, etc. Nothing of value to be gained here. now if you want to hear fairy tales.........Once upon a time I had my Z up to (fill in the blank) on the 21R runway at LAX with a 75mph tail wind. Boy was THAT a (jet)blast. :stupid:

It was just my attempt at a joke. The hose from the float bowl to the carb nozzle is made of silicone, or silicone rubber (so i'm told) very soft, flexible, thin walled, and heat resistant. Accept no substitutes. If Nissan can't supply it, ZTherapy can.

Shameless plug for employer??

Best? No. Reasonable? Yes. For a stock suspension, KYB's are fine. If you wanted performance, you'd get ToKico Illuminas, but if you were going that route you would have gotten stiffer than stock springs, right?

I think Nissan was more than a little confused in this area as I have a Technical Suppliment from Nissan that is dated August 1971 which is titled as "Introduction 1972 US Model 240Z" (or something VERY similar to this wording) which describes the new for 72 "B" trans, colors, retract seat belts, etc. This was an era of transition and not everything is as it seems it should be. Hence the necessity to examine your car for features and not to trust the DMV paperwork.

VIN search by DMV means NOTHING except that it was first registered in the year 1972. There are many tales of 1970 240Z's being registered as 1969 240Z's even though these cars were introduced as 1970 models simply because the first cars to arrive in the USA were sold in late 1969. Same situation for other model years. The only way you are going to know which diagram to use is examine your car for features (differences) in the diagrams. And E is right, forget haynes, it's diagrams are fairly generic. Use diagrams from an FSM to get the real acurate info.

Well, if you're being PAID to do it, that's one thing. But who gives a rats arse what anyone thinks of how it looks to drive on stickers for 20 miles or less? If someone doesn't like the way it looks on my car.......F'em.

I have one for a 1972. Came in the Nissan/Datsun Electrical Suppliment to the FSM. bought it on eBay, cheap

I do. Why futz around removing them when they will remove themselves in 20 or 30 miles of driving (less if I'm canyon carving). Who's anal enough to bother picking them off?

US Model 73 Z's began production around 9 or 10/72. Yours sounds like a late 72 model from the production date, but theres only one way to really know what is contained in your car. Best bet for you is to compare the two diagrams & find several differences in the wiring and compare them to your car to confirm which features are actually in your car. Simple enough to do

No difference in function. If you are careful & somewhat skilled I believe that you could make one work in place of the other, so long as you get the wiring correct. I'd examine the wiring of both sw's VERY carefully before delving into it though.