SteveJ

I haven't torn apart a 280Z switch, but the concept is probably similar to the 240Z hazard switch, only with fewer wires. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/early-hazard-switch/ When the switch is on, the green and green/yellow wires are connected. Green comes from the fuse box, and green/yellow goes to the turn signal flasher. With the hazard switch off, you should be able to measure 12VDC to GROUND at the green/yellow wire at the turn signal. If not, check for 12VDC to GROUND on the green wire at the hazard switch connector. If you have 12VDC there, the switch is the issue. For the hazards, check for 12VDC to GROUND on the green/blue wire at the hazard switch. If you don't have voltage, check for 12 VDC to ground on the red/white wire at the hazard light flasher. Report your results or post questions if you don't understand the instructions.

In the spring of 93, I transferred to a new assignment at Travis AFB. I was now a captain which was kind of a transition from getting by and living money-wise. So, with some extra dough ready to burn a hole in my pocket, I thought I would get a hobby car. I was hoping to find an RX-7. I tried to make an offer on one, but it was already sold. In June I found out about a 73 240Z for sale at the Lemon Lot on base. My girlfriend at the time knew the guy selling it. I took it for a test drive and decided to pull the trigger for $1800. It's a good thing I was ignorant about Z cars at the time, otherwise I might have walked away from this one. It had Weber downdraft carbs, 5 different tire brands (including a couple that were about down to the cord), and no caps on the brake reservoirs. I used it to learn about working on cars, and it held up despite the abuse. It's in my garage waiting for me to make the time to do right by it and fix all of my past mistakes. Then in January 2008, I was cruising through Craigslist ads (before all of the robbers/killers started using it) and found a listing for a 70 roadster and 74 260Z. I made plans to see both on the same weekend. The Z was closer, so I went to see it first. It was running, but I told the guy that I would come look at it and see if I could help him get it running. He had it listed for $3200, but he said he was knocking off $700 since it wasn't running. I went through all sorts of diagnostics in no particular order, and then I found the distributor cap was FUBAR. I told him I would buy the car and bring a good cap with me the next day. I showed up, installed the cap, and it fired...after I replaced the fouled spark plugs. I paid him $2500 and drove it home. Of course, the plan was to sell the 73 when I got the 74, but then I couldn't bring myself to part with the 240Z. After a few weeks, my wife said, "You're not selling the other car, are you?" I replied, "Nope." She put up with that but then established a two-toy rule for cars.

I'm old. I don't remember the links here.

Something like this in the proper diameter might work: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-20442/overview/

That is the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV). It should go to your intake. Download a copy of the FSM if you haven't already. The link is in my signature. The information to start you off is in the EC section. There should be a hose from that tube that has a steel mesh (anti backfire) near the tube and a PCV valve at the other end of the hose. The PCV system should go into the intake downstream of the AFM, so if it open, you have a big vacuum leak in your intake.

What is the fuel pressure? Are you sure all of the injectors are firing? Are you getting spark to each cylinder? Was the car running at any time with the old AFM? Did the car have this problem when you bought it?

In an effort to keep heat of the fuel rail, I added DEI heat shroud to cover the existing insulation. At first I tried 1 inch, but it was too small, so I bought some 3/4 inch and cut it in half. I notched the shroud to go around the fuel rail mounts and where the fuel lines go out to the carburetors.

I did have to remove it from the car today to adjust the fork that goes to the brake pedal. The fork was too far in, so the brake light was on all of the time. The booster was in and out in about an hour. Once you have done it, the process gets a LOT faster.

Thanks. I could have sworn I saw a post in the past from Philip @240260280 on rebuilding the valve.

I what thinking something along those lines, too.

No, but I know them. Now, would you mind taking some time and learning some manners? @Mike @bpilati - Could this thread be merged with the thread below?

Jai might just have to get the alternator/VR fixed then come over to my house to get the other things worked on. I can cover a lot more ground at my place with all my tools available.

I think you shouldn't start two threads on pricing for one car.

Then why two threads? Ballpark pricing was given in the first thread.

I love coming to this site and learning what I thought I knew was wrong. Thanks for taking the time to explain.

I love that groovy 70s music.

I also have seen the opposite. The battery was discharging on a friend's car, and the alternator "tested good". I said F the test results. We replaced the alternator (internally regulated), and the problem was gone. Apparently the testing apparatus did not properly check for a bad voltage regulator.

Also, post the supplier and part number. Maybe someone here is familiar with it. There are some smart people on here who may be able to give you an educated answer.

Remember that your homework before class on Tuesday is to read the EE section of the FSM and read about Ohm's Law. That way you can ask questions on the things you don't understand before you get to class.

Yeah, once you said your fuse blew when engine speed increased, I was thinking that you have a bad voltage regulator OR you might have an internally regulated alternator with a voltage regulator. Either case can cause an overvoltage. I hope you didn't blow out any components when testing when using the higher rated fuse. Life can be a mean teacher. You get the test first and lesson afterward. Here's the lesson. NEVER put in a higher rated fuse when you blow the specified fuse. The wire is rated for only so much current. Putting in a fuse with a higher rating to find a short may cause the wiring to burn up. (Okay, so I dodged that bullet in the past, but I'm not doing that again.) So why would revving the engine cause a fuse to blow? To understand, you need to know Ohm's Law (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law) and read through the testing of the voltage regulator in section EE of the factory service manual. Go ahead. I'll wait. Done? Good. Now say you have a circuit with a 10A fuse. The effective resistance in the circuit is about 1.45 Ohms. You can calculate the current assuming you have 12 volts going through the system. (Note: Automotive circuits would be designed around 14 volts with some safety margin, but I'm taking some license with this example.) Look what happens if you have a bad voltage regulator that is allowing the voltage to go too high. So you stuff a 20A fuse in the circuit and a component that is rated for 14 volts is now seeing 18 volts for a prolonged period of time. That component might fail in a way that lowers the effective resistance of the circuit, causing it to blow with the 20A fuse, or the insulation on a wire could fail, allowing a short circuit to develop. I hope it wasn't either of those. If you really want to look for a short, use an ohmmeter. For the circuit you're interested in, find it in the fuse box. Remove the fuse. There is an upstream side and downstream side of the fuse. The upstream side has 12 volts when the car is on (or 12 volts constant for brake lights and some other circuits).The downstream side goes to the load. Measure resistance from the fuseholder on the downstream side to ground. If it's less than 1 ohm, there is good likelihood of a short somewhere. Things to watch for include bad corrosion in the exterior light sockets. The corrosion can bridge the gap between the positive and negative side of the bulb socket. This will lower resistance a fair amount and lead to issues like wires and the fuse box overheating. I forgot to add this. Here's an example of a wire ampacity chart for DC circuits: https://www.altestore.com/howto/wire-sizing-tool-for-12-24-and-48-volt-dc-systems-a106/ There are plenty more for marine applications.

I replaced the booster and master cylinder on my 240Z before, so I have my technique down.

I replaced the brake booster today. I discovered a little over a week ago that it had gone south on me. It's so nice to have power assisted brakes again.

RPM is important for voltage measurements. The FSM lists voltages for engine speed. For the tachometer, there is a resistor in the circuit. It is identified on page BE-3 of the FSM. There is also a ground and 12VDC source. Since the ground and 12VDC source are shared with other instruments, I would guess it's the resistor unless other gauges are acting up. Replacing it will probably require soldering in a new one on the old connector. 2.2Kohm 1 Watt would work. They have them at Frys, Amazon, etc. (Lifetime supply: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a11101900ux0055-Metal-Resistor-Piece/dp/B015CHKSZW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493437627&sr=8-4&keywords=2.2k+ohm+1+watt+resistor) Without more testing, it's difficult to be sure if it's the alternator or voltage regulator. Rockauto has a closeout on a voltage regulator $12.52 + shipping. Their cheapest alternator is $22.06 +shipping, and that includes the core charge.

Bob Leitzinger wrecked his 510 at Road Atlanta last weekend. It happened right in front of me.

Well, Bob has been given his release from the hospital. I wonder if he's going to try to rebuild the car. All it needs is the new front clip.