SteveJ

I drove the Z to spend the day at Festivals of Speed. I got to spend my day taking photos and hanging out with friends who brought out some great classic Datsuns/Nissans.

@JSM - This

@Patcon - Here's another one for you.

What kind of detail are you looking for, and what year car?

How about pictures of vintage race cars on display?

Do you have headers in your car?

Most of the sources I have seen say to use an LED that matches the color of the lens.

I drove the Z to work today in order to go to the Georgia Z Club meeting afterward. It was a great day to drive the car, too. Here are the S30s that showed up.

No.

Thank you. It's clear now. The relay is to bring in the retarded timing points on the dual point distributor in the automatic transmission cars. There is a clear description of it on page EE-26 of the 73 FSM. When the temperature sensor gets up to a certain point, the switch closes and energizes the relay. The relay closes the contact between the second set of points and ground.

Condensers are still available through Rockauto. Search under ignition parts. As for the relay, try cleaning off some of the crap that is coating the wires and give us any wire colors you can make out. Be sure to identify both the main color and the color of any stripe that may be on the wire.

You should join us at some of the Georgia Z Club events. http://www.facebook.com/georgiazclub or http://georgiazclub.wordpress.com

The word is official. Nissan will be the featured marque at the 2018 Grassroots Motorsports Mitty. https://www.themitty.com/ So make plans to come to Atlanta twice in 2018: late April for the Mitty and October for ZCON.

Look to make sure the 6 wire body harness connector is connected to the dash harness. If it is, take it apart and inspect for corrosion and damaged connectors/wires.

Yeah, 0.01 A isn't going to drain the battery fast.

Eastern Beaver (https://www.easternbeaver.com/) also has some products that Vintage Connections does not have. You have to do a pretty good sized order to make it worthwhile, though.

Also, if you aren't comfortable with using an old school ammeter, sometimes you can diagnose a current draw with a clamp ammeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071SHLWTW It will be a "Lightning Deal" on Amazon at 8:15PM Eastern Time on Friday.

The most likely culprit is in the charging system as Zed Head said. A bad voltage regulator will also kill the battery. Try unplugging the voltage regulator and see if the battery is dead the next day. To Dave WM's point, will the battery start the car if you charge the battery? If it does, then continue diagnosing the electrical system. Here's some tips on diagnosing: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/16/some-electrical-basics-and-troubleshooting/

Are you sure it's no more than $300? It still has some interior parts and an engine.

Been there. Done that. It really messes with installing everything else.

Any question is easy if you already know the answer.

I've been asking that for years.

I don't think the people at Capital Z of Texas want to be punished like that. The ZCCA likes to spread the torture around. It's no small feat to host the national convention. Besides, by moving it around, people from all over the country have a better opportunity of making one.

What is the rated output of the alternator? Is there a part number on the housing?

Are you sure you got an externally regulated alternator when you replaced it last year?