HusseinHolland

Since it's pouring rain now, I started working on the rear strut brace. Strut weld plates came from ZcarDepot making the vertical support for the tubing from 2" x 3/16" bar stock started curling the plate in the vice tried to use this 4" tube to squeeze the plate around for refining the circle, doesn't work So I used the strut plate to bring it into shape have to contour the tube end to mate with the weld plate 1.75" x.095" tubing

Replacement cushion (2007) came - looks better than the auction indicated. Cushion & seat heater in great shape. Frame is also painted, - unlike my 2006 version.

Started talking about the back of the garage in this thread - making room for heavy equipment that I need to have outside, to make room for the 80gal compressor inside Today I added a header, and an end rafter - looked online for a guide to appropriate pitch for the awning. Basic minimum rule seems to be 1/4" for every foot. I made the awning end rafter 50" deep, with a 6" drop - so well over minimum spec - "looks' reasonable to me. picked up some lumber & corrugated panels To get the pitch, I cut 15º on the rafters, then 45º & 30º for the 3' angle section, that put the brace around 1/2 way out the rafter. It's only carrying the weight of the corrugated panels, so I think it will be fine. The plan is to put the rafters/braces 24" on center, since that aligns with where the studs are in the garage wall. The corrugated panels are 26" W, I'm planning on about a 4" overlap Had time to make & put up 4 supports before I had to pack up, and caulked the header at the wall, since I don't have time to do the drip rail, etc, before the rain forecast for all day tomorrow & Monday I realized the one by the garage entry dropped when I mounted it to the stud, the pitch angle is obviously off in this pic So I corrected that when I got home from the party we were attending, was only a couple hours, so the construction adhesive had not set yet The problem Is I need to figure out a way to attach rafters over the window, otherwise I will not have rafters to support the central roof panels Outside the door on the frame, I need to add a support to hold the outermost rafter & brace. Have to cut off some of the existing door overhang

EDIT - not a bad idea to leave it on the pallet, I could just cut it down & put the rubber pad under as you said. I was going to bolt it to the floor with isolator pads, but that does create issues with drainage. I painted my Fiat in my driveway (in a canopy) 5 years ago using the Husky & a even smaller pump in tandem - I want to be able to paint without worrying about pressure drops mid-spray , which happened several times. I'm retiring from my day job this summer, so I'll have more (uninterrupted) time for projects. I'll probably want to repaint the Z at some point in the future, along with the pickup truck I made.

So, Home Depot is going to replace the compressor - what that actually means I have to buy another & return this one to get the refund. Kind of a PITA. The rep I spoke with was very apologetic & helpful though. I said that I felt an additional discount was in order for all the aggravation, wasted day off for the delivery (was supposed to come Tuesday, not Wednesday), etc. She discounted the compressor, and added their 'white glove' service (normally a $200 fee) which apparently is intended to make sure that an item is clear of damage prior to shipment, and again at point of delivery. So, all in all, once I get a good unit, it will be over $400 off the retail price. All I got done after work was setting up the press & anchoring it to the platform I made behind the garage. I'm thinking I'll make an awning/ overhang the width of the garage (about 18') to make the platform more user friendly. I should have room to keep a number of larger items out here, albeit under tarps or covers.

Thanks CO! I didn't realize there was already a tower brace of sorts in place, I looked back at some interior shoots of mine, and it appears I also have those

Actually has to go back - they damaged it in shipping, looked fixable at first, then noticed the motor mount plate is bent, pump tube is bent, the drive belt doesn't align, and a fin is broken off one cylinder head.

Crack went pretty far. Been sided tracked on other stuff - I ordered a better sized compressor for the garage, so I can do my own paint again if I choose. Problem is, there is just too much stuff in my small garage as it is, so I had to make a platform on the back of the garage to house my engine hoist, press & other stuff that I don't need on a daily basis should work out, eventually

Took the drivers cushion apart. Foam is pretty screwed, not sure if I can actually repair this EDIT - found a good DS cushion complete with heater pad (mine is damaged) for reasonable (in the scheme of things) pricing. This one has cracks all over the place. Since it's the outer bolster, it's gonna look like crapola if it's not perfect. I'd have bought a pass side since they are always in better shape, but the DS has a bump out between the legs wire bolster weld was torn Fixed that aspect - EDIT - looks like a stress crack below the spot weld ridge in line with the welded bar

Took the airbags, seat belt receivers, and cushions off the seats documenting wiring. I powered the seats, and made sure the seat tracks were set in the rearward position - they were. track length 16.75" airbag bracket 4 bolts on each cushion frame.

Much lower- mine hang off the roof pillar. I was not looking forward to mounting the Wesco's up there. Do you have any pics of the reel mount under the cover? Presumablay adjusted in some way to allow for the strut brace. I'm thinking I may just make a welded (removable) steel brace. It's not like I don't have the time. I have some DOM tubing I bought & didn't need for the pickup conversion, so I could use that - might be too HD though - I think I bought 1.5" - 2" OD.

OK. Another change I see - the seat belt reels are mounted on top of the strut towers? Does that mean there is a belt guide under the 1/4 glass? On my '75 there is a captive nut, probably 14mm, in the sheet metal behind the trim panel. Wondering whether that would be a good location for the Wesco belt, instead of up high where it creates the neck choking condition...

Those look great! Very bold to put white seats in a car - would never work for me, I very often forget to change out of (auto) work before getting in. I'm going to try & fit the rails without modding the tunnel. Looking at the pics I have, it's had to discern if the gap is enough for the 350Z rail to fit inboard of the stock rail location without elevating the seat. Don't really want to go that route if I can avoid it. Hopefully I can check that out tomorrow. EDIT - do you have a rear strut brace? I'm thinking that may be a necessity.

EDIT - that 75 with all that muck (stone chip protection??) sprayed inside makes me shudder 🤪 Ah - I see it now. I do have a bump. I will have to see what happens when I take the DS apart to fit it.

Had a few hours today, so I filled the pie cuts & added reinforcing washers on the PS rails. Cut the 2 DS rails & started welding them also welded a bead on the backside where I had bent the plate tools for cleanup Added a rib across the top side of the bend also

In mine, L& R floor / seat frames are the same early pic:

Went back through to find this (many thanks for the details) - The stock belts just won't work if I want to add the 350Z outer mechanism trim - which is a must - So I've ordered the Wesco Roadster Retractables w/ 11" receiver sleeve. That should allow me to adjust the angle of the mounting rails very slightly outboard at the rear, which will give me at least a inch or two of rearward movement.

Took the seat power & heater wiring out of the 350Z Couple of issues. I neglected to mark the fore/aft setting of the outer rail before I cut off the standoffs, and observe the stock rake of the cushion in the 350Z. What I have found is that the 350Z rails sit precisely outboard of the 1/8" 1.5"x.5" C channel rails I'm making. Figure it's significantly more rigid than flat stock. I'll possibly add cross braces of C channel. I'll tack the 350Z rails to these first, after I fill-weld the cuts. doesn't look like the seat cushion / base will hit anywhere at this drop though Have to figure out if I can dismantle the rails to allow for welding the new with the existing. Don't want to melt the plastic guide inserts. Clearances Recliner is up against the 280Z belt reel guide, without the protective cover. Probably won't be keeping the stock belts. I'll leave the trim off until I figure that out. up against the ledge, pretty much tangs for retaining outer cover have to be removed, hits the cross frame Placement. As far back as it can sit, cushion is still further forward than the driver's seat Like this, it sits lower than the stock seat cushion , feels comfortable as is.

Sorry didn't see this earlier. It's a countersink bit, I think they are typically 82º, so not aligned with the 37º JIC fittings, but it still works

280Z track mounting differs - putting this here so I don't forget - I may make rails/ brackets to match the 280Z rail location rather than use the stock rail.

Swapped out the ProTunerZ rail today. Old one in foreground Easy swap out. Injectors stay put. 2 -6 AN fittings and the 2 hold downs on the intake. Countersunk the first one (hand cut, no chatter or burrs) ProTunerZ didn't want it back. Oring seats properly now (in the old one)

Took the seats out of the 350Z today, and moved the car into her (my mother) backyard, out of the way for her winter driveway access Have to cut a section of the harness for each seat tomorrow Power, heater & SRS broke the pass seat switch, bent the bracket - seat was behind the car & I backed into it Thankfully, I didn't damage the seat itself Cut off the rail standoffs 2 rivets & 2 spot welds for each leg Assuming these elements are for crash protection - I may want to add them back Put some paint on the ground-down areas, to protect it for now

Found a helpful thread on 350Z seat fitment. Since I've been driving the X1/9 again this past week, with the Honda S2000 seats, I really find the Datsun seats uncomfortable for my lower back issues. My 350Z seats are rough, so while I work on fitting them, I've ordered new leather from Ridies.com. Much more price-friendly than the CanadaSeatSkins that I used for the Volvo seats, and full leather for all panels. Going for Black w/ dk grey perforated inserts, green stitching. All the examples on their site have more contrast, like this

Apologies, I was looking at the return vs return-less aspect of that debate. I don't see any disadvantage to this setup, if that was why you were pointing it out, or because I wasn't getting the point? The one link posted seemed more concerned with carbureted setups, which is a whole 'nother ballgame, IMO. I would expect it would be unwise to use a stock style diaphragm version FPR for such a setup though. Volvo used this setup from the early 90's until the early 2K adoption of in-tank PWM controlled units. Removes the need for additional fuel lines on the motor, and removes the potential heating of the regulator and fuel returning to the tank. I haven't had any heat soak issues since switching to the billet rail and composite injectors. Improved starts, however the starter crank speed has a variable in that equation...

I bought their seat foam + leather upholstery (via their Amazon listings). Took at least 2 months, if I recall correctly. Came from India. Quality is very nice. I will be removing the seats to install 350Z seats, so if you decide you want full leather & new foam, I will be selling the entire seats minus the rails. Note that I added Honda seat belt guides.