Rusty1

I don't suppose you have an original 260z jack do you?

Steve, thanks for the info, I always wondered, I have sent you a PM.. Russ

On the subject of chassis numbers, did the factory number the vehicles individually for different variations of the one model or do the chassis numbers start from zero and go on from there, regardless of the the prefix. What I am trying to say is my car is GRS30-000692. Does this mean it is the 692nd 260Z built, or is it the 692nd right hand drive 2+2, where does it all end?

I have one that will trump you all, My 74 Z has a 710 cap on it but... wait for it.... The elephant is upside down... Since this is obviously as rare as, I will consider selling it. I will consider any offers over $10,000 au. Note the car is not included...:stupid:

I know this sounds really simple, check your battery terminals and especially your earth connection to the engine block. I sometimes happens that there is enough of a connection to power everthing but just not enough current is getting through to kick the beast over. I am probably way off but it is really cheap to fix.

Chris, I have sent you a PM. Rusty:devious:

What type of question is that? I would not dream of changing my 74 260Z from drums, but it is pretty much original.... I do have a fantasy of creating a kick arse 260 from assorted parts where I would include all manner of top shelf goodies, including ventilated discs all round.... At the end of the day you have to decide, do you need the extra performance of rear discs or not.... My guess is if you are talking road use, you do not need rear discs... Just my 2 cents

Tough break dude, Just the other day my G.L.W. (Good lady wife, if I don't call her that she will hurt me) came home from the supermarket and told me tha she had bumped the wall with my zed. Luckily I have a spare front bar and bonnet, the moral of this story is women are evil, don't trust them.....

Sorry about the last atempt, I will blame my P.C. If the diff is quiet and does not make any noise I will drive over and get it.... I also want the windscreen wipers, and if it is a manual any of the manual trans bits (pedal box, master cylinder etc.) What wheels does it have? I am looking for a set of original alloys... While I am at it a couple of rear strut caps would not go astray, what colour is the interior? If your console is not cracked I will pay good money for it, name your price.

Hey Z Kid,

I know you said that you replaced the battery leads but check that you have a solid earth connection, it's good to start with the simple things....

I bekieve that the correct term is "Spring Mounty Thingy":finger:

Mine is 7/74, it has a mechanical pump. I had problems similar to yours but it happened regardless of the weather, check your coil and leads, it fixed mine. (my coil was old as the hills) although I have heard that S.U.'s are prone to vapour lock, it hasn't been hot enough here yet for me to find out. Good luck.

Pinging (or detonation) usually happens under harsh acceleration, or heavy load. You can't really feel it through the accelerator, it certainly doesn't cause the car to hesitate. It is a sound that you can hear, it is a pinging rattle noise, I don't recall how to change the timing but higher octane fuel can fix it. Pinging is bad.... I just can't remeber why.

Clockwise = advance Anti clockwise = retard, The distributor in my car actually has a scale, similar to timing marks on the mounting plate. As for the vacum advance, yes there is definitely a heap of suction but it seems to work O.K. Have a look at some of the engine photo's in the gallery to see how other guys have it hooked up, most seem similar to mine, intake manifold near the front carb mounting plate.

check some of the recent threads where guys have listed prices for replacement switches, switch blocks are bulk expensive... If you ever needed motivation to try to fix a switch yourself there is is, you never know, you might even succeed...:classic:

Phil, The differences depend on how far you want to look.... If you simply like the look of the old zed's go for a 260, they are generally cheaper and more common. I don't know how much you know obout the cars so forgive me if I dumb it down too much. The 260 has a bigger engine (2600 cc)but I believe that the U.S. model was strangled with emmission controls and has no more power than the 240 (2400 cc). A common modification is to fit 240 carbs to a 260. There are minor cosmetic differences inside and out (dash/console/bumpers/tail lights etc) The 260 was the first model to have factory air conditioning and an auto trans, also the gearbox was upgraded from 4 to 5 speed. The 260 was also the first with an optional four seater (2+2) which is 300mm (12 inches) longer, you can tell by the space between the door and the rear gaurd, they also have a different roof line. The two seaters handle better than the longer model (they are also lighter). The main reason I believe that 240's have the stronger following is because thay were the original model, without the emission restrictions. Plenty of guys prefer the look of the dash and body of the older Z, I personally don't care, they both look great.

O.K. I just checked my 260 with original carbs, so I may be wrong, but here goes. 1. Most of the hoses from the intake manifold vent into the standard air cleaner (bet you don't have one) 2. Take your points out and check the contact faces for pitting, they can be cleaned up with a file of they are not too bad. The rotor button should have a clean unburnt electrode end, also check the distributor cap for cracks and excessive deposits on the contacts, they can be cleaned of they are not too worn. 3. The vacum advance on my car is hooked up to the intake manifold, the hose nearest the front where the front carb mounts, it just happens to be nearest the distrubutor. 4. Timing should be set at 10 deg B.T.D.C. on a stock motor, if your mechanical advance wont adjust that far the distributor may be a tooth out but don't take my advice, wait to hear from an expert. I don't know how the timing marks are set on your L24, on the L26 there is a graduated scale mounted next to the crank pulley. 5. To set the timing, warm the engine, block the vacum advance off, use a timing light on the crank pulley and adjust the mechanical advance until you reach the desired setting.

I have a book that explains the method of doing a compression test. Yes, motor must be warm. It recommends loosening all of the plugs but not removing them and turning the engine over to blow debris out of the plug holes prior to removal. Take all of the plugs out, and complete the test as you previously mentioned. There are a few things you can deduce from a compression test, If a cylinder reads low, place a teaspoon of oil into the bore and turn the engine through ten compression strokes to spread the oil. Re-test, if the compression comes up then the rings are passing (the oil improves the seal). If two cylinders side by side record similar low readings, you may have head gasket problems. Higher than manufacturers specification readings are an indicator of carbon buildup on top of the piston and heads. The books says that anything greater than a 10% variation indicates problems.

This is not the weekend. If you are being handled by someone else, you must fit into one of the following categories. 1. You are not married or at least have no kids. 2. It is your birthday. 3. Your partner wants something and feels the need to blackmail you. 4. You are making it up... 5. Or you are the luckiest guy on the planet.....and we all hate you.:disappoin

If you are in any way handy, fix the switch. I had a similar problem with mine, remove the combination switch from the car, the turn signal switch is a small metal box at the base of the stalk with three wires soldered on the back. The middle wire is common, the other two are for left and right. You can use a multimeter to check for any resistance in the switch, the fault will probably be dirty contacts. It is a fairly simple task to prise the switch apart (but be careful, there are small parts inside) clean the contacts with steel wool or fine sandpaper. When I re-assembled my switch I used a small amount of grease to "glue" the components in place while I closed the switch up. The whole job took about half an hour and they now work perfectly. You don't have to be an electronics wiz, I am not... It is also worth buying a can of C02 electrical contact cleaner the clean the rest of the switch contacts.

Z Kid, sounds like fun... I usually ride over to the Clipsal 500 with a few mates, I will be in touch next time I am in the area. Last night I was talking fluent drunkenese, it is interesting (and a little bit tragic) going back over what I typed (and reading it sober).

If you are intersted in separating, how much for the hatch (if it is rust free). I would like that whole car but I don't have anywhere to put it yet.

If you want a job done properly, do it yourself....

On the subject of wheel choices, one thing that nobody has mentioned is cost$$$$. As 17" tyres are becoming more common their price is coming down but they are still mega expensive, Quality 17" tyres start at $350 au each, I am willing to bet in the U.S. things aren't too different. I don't know about race tire prices... Also tires like this wear very quickly, that is the price you pay for traction. Also the lower profile tyre you fit the easier it is to damage a wheel, all it takes it a decent knock. I know you guys are talking about racing applications but I am sure that there are plenty of road guys who reading this thread. Gav, you were asking about tyre width.. This is the word according to Rusty. My theory on why tyres that are too wide can detract from the performance of a car is that you are spreading the weight of the car across a wider area (less weight per square inch of rubber on the road) you need a certain amount of wieght to get good grip. Try driving a car with wide tyres on a gravel road and you will discover the true meaning of understeer. Also wider tyres dont disperse water very well.