Zs-ondabrain

So far you've all managed to skip his original Question. He's asking about the whole nine yards. Yes, NGK are the recommended spark plug and will allow him to upgrade his ignition without worrying about the plugs. Yes, Nissan had it right from the start but times change and parts wear out. Stick with the NGK brand Plugs, possibly go with some upper end plug wires like Accel 8mm or better for some real good current transfer. The 79' 280ZX distributor ( with E12-80 ignition module, and possibly a D4K8 or D6K8 dist. body) w/ new cap and rotor) would be the next best way to go. The D6K9 has 2 vaccum advance pieces on it (used in the 80' 280ZX) Also, Pertronics make great parts for your ign. system and lets not forget about MSD. Both make excellent upgrades to any "stock" Z or counterpart. Hope this helps at least a little, Dave. P.S. I just put the D6K8 distributor w/ E12-80 ign. module in my 70' 240Z and you can't wipe the smile off my face with a sledge hammer. I now have more power, NO more points (yeh!!) better gas milage, quicker easier starts (even in the cold weather) and the performance is 100% better than stock!!

if the link works, tell me if this is what your talking about. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=13207 I think it was a SPECTRE kit, Stainless steel hose covering w/ aluminum end caps. Dave.

this Item is up for sale again, so far it's at $31 + $10 S/H as of 12/ 5/ 04, 1600 hours

Carl, Me and Will are trying to come up with a few options and also come up with a full compliment to the lighting systems on the early Z's, ie: tail, side, front and interior, including the dash lights. I'm in the middle of unpacking after the big move and I'm a little slow at getting back on the horse. give us time and we'll come up with some good results, I promise. Dave.

Duh carl! :stupid: I'm the KING of cheap. I don't use the map light that much, but when I do, the difference is night and day. I just stare at the pretty light and drewl on my self. It's a bad habbit but "it's what I do" Dave.

lets just say that the map light can be seen 1.5 miles away, ok probably not but YES it is more of an office light (pure light, not the soft glow that we're all used to) now and is brighter than stock. how much would ya pay for something like that, Carl? Dave.

this is the proto of the map light that I made. the pics are'nt that great but give you an idea of the possibility's with led's. it's a perfect fit and no mods are needed to install it. it has 18 pure white led's in it. The last is of the dome light led's that I made. Its not as bright as it may appear but will be as soon as I can find some one to make a "clear" lense for the dome assembly instead of the stock "white frost" one that we all have. It has 15 pure white led's in it. its a real snug fit and needs to be modified a little more before it's a final product. Dave.

Me and Will are working on it, he's doing the baby thing and I'm doing the MOVING THING, Is it possible to actually gain more crap as you unpack?, I don't remember half of the crap thats coming out of the boxes. We're trying to find the best possible sollution for the L.E.D. dash light questions and built prototypes in the process. I'll try to keep you'all up to date on our progress. Dave.

try pulling the heater core without pulling the whole housing around it, thats a real bitch but better than pulling the whole unit at once. I can now do a heater core swap in just over an hour, and that includes pulling the glove box, fan, air intake assembly, and pinching and pulling the hoses so I dont make a mess, then reassembling the whole thing. You tend to get good at some thing once you've done it twice already. The other worst bolt has to be the BIG 15/16th bolt on the front part of the lower control arm where the big new polyurathane bushings go, I've yet to find a torque wrench that will go on there with a socket attached or not. I have to use a box wrench w/ another wrench attached to properly torque it down.

If it has anything to do with upgrading your 70' to 72 1/2' 240Z headlight relays, try this, I think you'll be happy with it. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14897 email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com Dave.

this is an update!!! I still have the harness for the 240Z for sale, so if your interested in upgrading your headlghts in your 240 or if you want to get FULL power to the stock headlights, this is the only way to go. wolfin32z@yahoo.com they are still $45.00 + $8.00 S/H = $53.00 Dave.

stay as close to a 0 degree offset as possible. it's just to much stress on old parts to try and run a 10 degree offset and the chance of rubbing is way to high. I run a 205X40R16 and it fits perfect all the way around. I could go with a 205 50 16 to bring my speedometer back to the way its supposed to be but right now I'm broke. Good luck

I second the motion on the four piece pre bent kit. the one that I installed on my 70' had to be welded cause the clamps kept scraping the ground after I installed my new eibach pro-rate springs. We took off the clamps and welded the whole thing in place. would have been better off goin to the shop and having them make one with a lot less parts to it. costs a little more but more worth it. mine is 2 1/2" pipe with a 6 into 1 header. Dave.

Carl, I totally understand, and like I said," I'm working on it". Abas, If a complete conversion of LED's is made, an electronic flasher would have to be used. IMO the resistors you speak of would possibly put that resistive load back on the system, But I could be wrong, I can't remember. The LED's that I bought at the auto parts store fit just fine through the hole, Yes, they did LOOK big but I think thats an optical illusion, "glass vs. solid mass and leds" Will, That sounds great!! I'll do my best. and did you have any thing in particular in mind for the LED's? side marker-tail light- dash- disco ball? Let me know, Dave.

I looked and it seems like the "wide viewing angle BA9s bulbs" would work nicely in the pods as well as the speedo and tach area. I used my scanner to enlarge my wiring diagram for the 240Z and printed out all four corners to make one BIG map of the diagram. I found that the side markers, tail lights, and front parking lights as well as the dash lights, ALL come from (1) wire coming out of the light switch on the column. And the contacts on the dimmer switch "potentiometer" wear out over time. I'm in the process of designing a "kit" to fix the problem for those who don't wish to convert to "L.E.D.'s. It consists of... 1)a relay after the switch to give a true uninterupted 12 volts to that wire. 2) four new ground wires that can connect in the form of a 'T' to give a better ''point of contact'' ground to all 4 corners of the car. With my business license, I might be able to get the "LED" bulbs for the dash lights at a discount if I order them in Bulk, and still sell them to you guys at a discount when you buy the kit I'm trying to make it so we can upgrade our cars without having to "cut" up the car or the harness. the relay that I mentioned earlier would use a stock location for it's ground, a new, fused, heavy gauge wire from the battery to the relay, and you would only have to cut ONE wire and use the supplied connectors to attach it to the relay harness. let me know what you guys think as well as what you think something like that would be worth to you, (what would you spend)?? when I finish the prototype and test it on my Z, I'll take pics and let you see it (the kit). Dave.

My 70' 240Z is 99% rust free, my whole suspension has been rebuilt (urathane) and I have brand new toyota 4-piston calipers and Green Stuff pads in the front, 280zx rotors and 240sx calipers in the rear and Earls S.S. braided brake lines in all 4 corners. YUP, I can stop if I really want to. Besides, the doctor said it is'nt too habit forming. Dave.

140 MPH on I=5 near Everett, Washington. Certified by the State Trooper that clocked me and gave me one hell of a ticket. My 70' has a Stage two cam, 6 into 1 header, 2.5" exhaust, lowered, 16" wheel, 205x50 r16's, front spoiler, 4speed out of a 72 240Z. and thats all

My name came up as "brigadere McNutt" I actually have four squirrels in my yard that I am feeding for the winter nap.

Don't forget that if you have L.E.D.'s in the taillight area, you'll need an electronic frasher unit, because of the lack of a true load. They run about $30.00. L.E.D.'s use very little current to work, so they need a different style flasher rather than the thermal one that came w/ your car. one for the blinkers and one for the 4-way flasher.

Good Job on the L.E.D. site, this is what I'm talking about, every body telling us what they know so we can all benefit from it. I found the L.E.D's at my local Schucks/Kragen auto parts store. I also found them at Auto Zone.