LanceM

Bought some dynamat substitue from McMaster carr and have been installing it. Goes in great and forms well to conturers. I have a question though for anyone that may have used something like this. On something like a door where would you put it for best effect? I think that if I put it under the interior skin it won't fit right because of the thickness of the dynamat. The inside of the doors was coated years ago and is rough, I don't think the mat will stick to it. Any suggestions?

I think the broken rear stud is a common problem on many L series engines, my is broke, gone, but no leak.

I wouldn't recomend an E-31 for a turbo motor is what I probably should have said Now for my NA 240Z, well I've been looking for an edge.....

The E-31 is an early 240Z head, NA and will produce probably the highest compression ratios available using a stock head. Around the block, Hmmmmm, pull it out of the driveway, kick it in the A$$ and call a tow truck to get home....

I'm not much of a turbo guy, but they but everything I've read says that they tend to run very low compression compaired to NA cars. I would think that once the boost comes on you wouldn't get around the block...

It will fit, how long the engine last with 10+ compression ratio is the question!

First off thanks for your first post cause second, OH MY GOD, I had a little of that problem on the passengers side of my car but the drivers looked fine, till now! I thought I'd better have a second look all around and took my trusty stab it screwdriver to the driver's side, poked right through the wheel well into the rocker and just finished up raking out about a pound of road silt! How does it get in it there??? Just when I thought I had all of this kind of stuff taken care of! I'll tell you one thing, that screwdriver is going to get a workout as we go everywhere else that "looked" fine and do some stabbing!!! Ed was probably right on metal size, I was guessing and haven't had any experiance in having to form pieces, I think that is about to change....

I wonder if it wasn't another "dealer" option. I bought my 73 240 in 79 with 50K showing, I'm the second owner but never met the first owner. It has Z seats but the inner panel is cloth and had a design in it that matched color wise with the orignal color of the car. I find it hard to believe that someone would go to the expence of having the seats reapolstered in that short of of time period. The job looks factory and they are still in good shape except for 30 years of being sat on. I've always wondered myself...

Ok, Looked at your pic again then my car to be sure. Pull the dog leg trim panel off from the inside and take a look with a good light down through one of the holes there. I think you may find that you have some serious problems inside. probably a hole through from the front of the wheelwell into that lower rocker area. I don't think there is a drain hole there so if anything gets in it stays and rots... The problem with that area is that I don't think there are replacement panels available, you either have to fab something up or find a good doner car to cut the inner/outer panels from...

I think you are yet to see the really bad part. I would sugest cutting into that and see what is going on inside, maybe more than just a little sheetmetal replacement. If the pic is where I think it is, there could be a whole lot of work waiting inside.... I would guess 14 gauge, .080" thick. 16 gauge is .062.

I have mine apart there currently and no foam, nothing but steel in the whole compartment besides the wiper motor. My whole area there was a nightmare, found that the mice had been using it for a bathroom for the 15 years the car was stored!!! Pulled out 5 pounds of $hit and after hours of cleaning, scraping, sanding got the mess and rust cleaned up. I am using a rust converter made by Permatex, Don't know if it is available in NZ but in my limited testing seems to work well at stoping rust.

I have 235/60-14 all the way around on 6 3/4" rims, no clearance issues.

Got me on that one, I was thinking old days, bench seats, long shifter handles, cut it off and weld on a bolt screw on a knob and reach over the seat to shift! Not Z, where the knob could stick out of the console and be in easy reach

Don't know what the stock lenght is but a shorter shifter will make for faster shift times, but it will also reduce your leverage, not that leverage should be a problem with a healthy transmission. To visulize what a shorter shifter will do for you, draw a 10" diameter circle and divide it in let's say 4's for the example, measure between two of the points where they cross the circle, now draw a 6" circle and do the same thing. By using a shorter shifter you have effectivly reduced the circle and so reduced the travel between two points. I remember in high school a guy had a shifter in a chevelle that was pretty much a ball sticking out of the floor, talk about a short and fast shift! If I remember right he blew alot of second gears too! With the Z's short stick taking off an inch or so will probably make it feel crisper but if you are young with good reflexes your shift times probably won't change enough to notice time wise. One thing I would think about is if the stick was shorter would you have to lean forward to pull to second or push to third? If you would any benifit would probably be lost.

Yes scary and nuts, like I said "don't try this at home" It didn't make it through the gallon of gas before it froze up. Man was it screaming though, had to be running 12K + with WOT and no load! And it ran for what seemed like a long time, we figured it would just over rev and blow, when it didn't we ah, sort of started running It didn't blow either, at least nothing sticking out anywhere, it just stopped, dead in an instant. We never looked but always figured we spun some of the main bearings. Ah to be young and wild again, well ok, maybe not So Texasz, your experiance shows that the only thing to do is a leakdown test if it is on a stand. Probably the best test anyway since the results are more specific if there are problems that need to be figured out.

Here's a link to a homemade leak down tester http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml Perhaps you know someone who has a compessor you could borrow? Looking at the leakdown tester I would say that the air volume required is extreamly low, perhaps one of those 12V ones for blowing up tires would be enough to get the job done without a big outlay of $ and be useful later on. Or another thought is a small air tank, they are not that expensive and you could fill it at a gas station as required. Here's a wild thought, since you'll have it on a stand with the flywheel off you can't use a starter, how about a 1/2" drill driving a socket on the front of the crank? With all of the plugs out and checking the compression on just one cylinder at a time I bet the drill would turn it fast enough. Take a cheap 3/8" extention and cut off the ratchet end so it will go in the drill, 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and plug on your 27mm socket and go! Know anybody with a 1/2" drill? If the engine is complete and ready to drop in, carbs, starter, fan, etc, something I've done and falls into the highly not recommended catagory is bolt it to a couple of hunks of 6 x 6 with a chunk under the back to hold the flywheel off the ground. Hot wire the ignition, stick the line from the fuel pump in a gallon can and use jumper cables to start it up. If you are going to run it very long a garden hose shoved in the bottom inlet works fine, but makes a mess Great way to check for bad spark plug wire Like I said this falls into the "don't try this at home kids" catagory but is a way to see if it will run. The neighbors will love the sound of that short stack exhaust I must say though when I did this it was a duration test, wired the throttle wide open, no water, and let it go. I didn't think it was ever going to quit, gotta love them Datsun engines! Don't flame me too bad here, that was 25-30 years ago, there were plenty of them around then.... OK, ya done run me out of ways to check it without putting it in a car or tearing it down..... who knows maybe one of them might really work!

Glovebox is the way to go. I also found that the plastic insert (glovebox) from a 81 280ZX can be made to work as a very nice but not stock replacement.

I'm pretty certain that the car came with cast iron from the factory. Few engines come originally with chrome from the factory, the only one I can think of off hand is the old Pontiac 455. Chrome rings are harder than cast iron and will last longer but can be a bear to seat. I've heard of cases where chrome rings never seated. I would go with the cast iron, that's probably what you would have gotten from the dealer if he still stocked them. Properly fitted they should give you good long service.

What kind of rings are you wanting to put in if not cast iron? Chrome?

I think the colors are important more than the style or placement of the stripes. Done right I think they really add to the cars styling, but in the wrong color they seem to pull your eye away from the lines of the car and it seems to become just another car with stripes...

Does it start and run well at 10? Then that's a good place to set it. If you want to play a bit and see if more is better read my post above and work from there. Every car is different, what is good for one won't work for another.

Gee I didn't think the 5 minutes it took to make the adapter much of a bother Just kidding If you don't have a welder then buying one is the way to go. That's one of those items I never looked to see if they sold! I've made so many over the years I think I have one that will about fit anything. Always seem to have old spark plugs laying around and a bag full of fittings, must be something about being handy and cheap, or cheap and handy, or maybe it good that I'm handy because I'm cheap :0

That price is about right for new, you may be able to save $100 by shopping around. Your best bet is to watch ebay, typical price going there is around $700 or so for used. Thing to remember is that in order for the webbers to work well you need to do head, cam, and exhaust work. Otherwise you will just have an expencive engine decoration that gives you poor performance and bad gas mileage....

Depending upon the tool you use to remove the keepers you may or may not have to remove the cam. In any case you are going to have to hold the valves closed somehow. The tubing as mentioned above may work but I don't like the idea of sticking something in a cylinder that I may not be able to get out. I once used the old trick of using clothes line in the cylinder to keep the engine from rotating while trying to break free some flywheel bolts, damn clothesline got cut and I had a hell of a time getting it out with out pulling the head! Won't ever do that again!!! My suggestion is to take an airline coupler (quick disconnect male end) and an old spark plug. Knock the porcelin out of the plug and weld in the coupler. Place it in the sparkplug hole, remove the rockers so the valves are closed and then pressurize the cylinder with your compressor. As long as the air line is hooked up the valves will stay closed. Do your work then move the adapter to the next cylinder. That way nothing gets into the cylinder but compressed air!

Good deal that is all that it was. In my pre z life (chevy, pontiac) we always spun the pump useing a drill and an old distributor shaft to get things primed along with we always packed the pump with light grease (vasileane?) to be sure it would prime. I'm sure the writer didn't mean to leave it out, sometimes there are just things you take for granted that everyone knows, even though they don't! At least on a Z you don't have to drop the pan to get to the pump!!