LanceM

You got mail...

Stick the forks between the upper part of the rubber boot and the steering arm, and pound on the end of it with a BFH, should come apart in 3-4 good wacks.

Go to HF and buy a set of deep well impact sockets, 1/2" drive, pick the one that is the closest to a fit and drive it on with a BFH, take the lug loose, once it is loose use the BFH to knock the socket loose from the nut before you get it all the way off, other wise you won't be able to get the other wheels. 3 pound drilling hammer is my favorite, easy to swing in tight places, you can get them at HF too... Hey anybody want to buy some wheels just kidding...

Though any should work I would go with a 72 MC and slave. Both of the ones in my 81 parts car look close enough to the same to work in my 73. I don't remember when but sometime I think there was a return spring and the clutch fork was different, maybe 72?, and that may require a different slave cylinder or a fork change to run a later one.

All through the 280ZX will drop right in. There is no replacement for Cubic Inch Displacement

Fuel pump?

OK I'll try that, I did a gravity bleed for the most part when I put it in with a few pumps.

Since the clutch MC dosen't have a bleeder any suggestions as to make sure it is bled?? just loosen the fitting and pump away???

Use a hairdryer to dry it off. If you are going to glue it back in use something like superglue, if you use RTV be sure to get something that is compatable with electronics, regular RTV offgasses something that is very corrosisve and will make a mess of the electronics!

Ok, 73 240Z, new clutch MC and slave, was able to bleed them fine, the problem is I have the adjustment out to the last thread and the clutch is still at the floor! Still not blead? Everything works fine just I don't like the clutch engaging a 1/4" off of the floor! Looking for suggestions!

Ha, use a milk filter if you really want to see what is in it! They are a much finer filter, figure on using several to filter a quart of dirty material...

Go to NAPA and buy a couple of gallons of Mac's 6401 carb cleaner, stuff will eat paint off and anything else! Wear rubber gloves and safety goggles!! Get a pan deep enough and put your parts in, cover with the cleaner and let soak for a couple of hours or so, rinse and they are clean. I filter it back into the can using milk filters (available at your local tractor supply) and a funnel, stuff will last for ever. Remember though it is nasty stuff, peels skin!!

It shouldn't take long to do, couple of hours at the most, probably more like an hour. There are only 2 tie rod ends on a Z. www.rockauto.com has them for $22 each, I've bought a lot of parts from them and they ship quick.

Yep, that's a 280zx dizzy, so 81 would work for sure as that is what I got mine out of .

If it has a module on the side of the distributor it probably came from an 80-81 280zx, no module on the distributor but it is electronic (no points) then it is from a 78-79 I think???

With the engine TDC on #1 compression stroke the timing mark on the dampner should align with the 0 mark on the timing tab, if it dosen't the something is wrong with the dampner or it is not the right one... If it does align correctly then with your timing light connected to the #1 plug you should be able to see the mark on the dampner at low idle.

Your question would probably be best answered at http://hybridz.org/nuke/ They deal in engine conversions in Z's.

yes that is correct

I would jack up the rear end and support it. Then in netural make sure that the rear tires can be easily spun in the forward direction, it may be just that your rear brakes need adjusting.

If you empty the MC you will have to bleed your brakes! So I would say no just replace the booster.

I'm with Pancho, These "better, more horsepower" plugs have been around for 40 or more years in one form or another. Gains if there are any are so small as to not be noticeable, for their cost it is money better spent on something else.

With webbers there isn't anywhere to connect the vacumum advance. Forget it and dial in more static advance at idle. two ways of doing it, set timing for full advance at around 2500 rpm, shoot for around 34 degrees, or at idle set it higher say 18 then take it for a drive, if you have pinging under load retard it a few degrees until it stops, if no pinging advance it till you get some then retard it untill it stops, then you know that you have dialed in the maximum advance that the engine can handle. If you find that the engine is hard to start hot after setting it this way retard the timing a few degrees and that should take care of it.

I got $6 for a stripped 280zx FI intake manifold. Strip off all of the steel that you can and take it to a scrap yard, cast aluminum is going for $.42 a pound around here.

Click here to find a caculator that will caculate where different degree marks are on your dampener. http://www.thedirtforum.com/toolbox.htm After you find true 0 degrees that is!

Do I get any extra points for having 3 phase??? I sort of went wiring crazy 20 years ago when I wired my 30 x 36 shop, 200A service w/it's own meter, outlets every 6 feet in conduit all the way around on the wall, hanging drops every 10 foot from the ceiling, 220V in a couple of places in case I have to move the welder, and 3 phase for a couple of machines I have. Glad wire was cheap back then as I'd hate to do it all now.