LanceM

Serious is a relative term here, without hardend valve seats a valve job will last a little more than half of what it would have with hardened seats, so if you don't plan on keeping the car forever or don't mind doing a valve job every 30-40 thousand miles with "normal driving" it's not that big of a deal.

Ok just to clarify this, so say when you replace a MC you also replace that OLD worn-out booster?? I mean one would follow the other from what you are saying right? What about rear wheel cylinders, they are as old as the MC more than likely, so we should change them too? No wonder I only do "reactive" repairs, I couldn't afford to replace everything related to a failed componet just because I was there... In any case you gotta stop, you're killing me

No you were right the first time, I wasn't thinking about the short shifter requiring the brackets, forgot about them. So that is why the aftermarket short shifter wouldn' work, it is all clear now!!

I put the shifter from my 73 into an 81 ZX tranny no problem so I don't see why the short shifter from an early Z wouldn't work in a ZX tranny...

Stop, Stop, you're killing me!!

The MC's are all the same, the boosters are different, though I would think a 73 would work on earlier models, it is just larger but not as large as the zx models.

Since I only have one belt as it is I wonder why bother, it won't increase HP, sure won't make it handle or stop better.... but then I guess there is that "bling" factor, ah hell, cheaper to put another sticker on the back window for that

Holy crap, I'd been crying, hard to think about it being worse!!! My event was a rear bumper bust, I think it did more damage because the bumper was there. Rear pannel, hatch, bumper, and both rear quarters where the bumper mounts on the sides ripped out as the sideds pulled away from the body as the bumper tried to straighten out....

The sad fact is that you won't get the money out of a $6K paint job if you sell it later, so you sell it now w/o paint and loose money or get it painted and loose more money.... Sounds like you have done a lot to it and have a lot of time invested over the years, why not try a hand at painting and do it yourself. For the Macco $1K you can buy the equipment and paint and have an experiance, and probably at least as good of a job as Macco, probably better! I myself like to paint and find it fun and relaxing, which is the same thing other people say about golf!! Anyway to answer your question of what would I do... $6K is too much for a driver IMO, I would never invest more than the car is worth or would be worth finished. But then owning a Z is sort of like throwing money down a rat hole..... Anyone that has less in their finished car than it is worth please raise your hands

Keep it oiled up as now is the time of year that you will start to get a lot of condensation if your garage isn't heated. The metal is cold and with the warm damp spring air it is soaking wet in minutes, next comes the rust. Being in PA you will be getting it just like we do in IN, damp every morning for the next couple of months until the evenings start staying warm.

The pics make it look worse than it probably is, but anyway I would use a gray Scotchbrite pad and some WD-40 and carefully remove it. The bores will be more of an issue than the deck. For sure don't use anything more abrasive than a Scotchbright pad. Before you start and after you are done keep it oiled up to loosen the current rust and to prevent it from coming back.

Current will flow between + - if the points are closed. With the points open you should be able to measure 12V between + and chassie ground. If your condenser is shorted you will have no spark and will measure less than 12V from coil + to ground. Yes it will be but the period will be very short and probably can not be seen using a digital voltmeter, an analog meter would show it better. No spark if you have 12V to the coil (and haven't done anything like swap distributors) would be usually : Bad condenser bad/slipped points bad coil (usually they leak oil from the hi tension lead area when bad)

Ha, sorry but I just gotta laugh, talking about fugly, you got'em, and only around $4K a set!!

Jerry Jerry, the Z man the Z or in your case the Z's! not the truck!! the toys

I don't think JY will sell a used catalitic converter, why not just buy a cheap glass pack..

The shape is simular to that of a door stop, attach a cable to it so you have something to grab when you want to remove it. I have used a section of wooden broom handle and it worked well for me. I have also seen the datsun tool on ebay quite often for around $7.00.

I just used Pizza Hut as a reference, even eating Korean here you can expect to drop $30 easy in a sit down resturant. Fast food here amounts to a sidewalk stand selling something on a stick, haven't quite figured out what all of the somethings are and I'm not real interested in finding out... Cars may be just for transportation but they are spending quite a bit of money fixing them up with wheels, lights and all kinds of other stuff, but I agree that something like restoring a car would probably be a very rare thing. As far as hobbys go, theirs is a luxury as far as I'm concerned... Golf is the big thing here, but since land is so expensive golf courses are rare and very expensive, here in Gumi a city of 300,000+ there is one golf course and the greens fee is $200, their complaint isn't the cost it's not being able to play because of the number of people wanting to play! Things are different here that is for sure

Ha, Yes plenty of "hot" babes and cold beer here!!! But then I've always had a thing for women with the oriental look I've spent the weekend walking around the city seeing the sights and being one too I believe, the women here seem very interested in men with beards, or so it seems to me In a week I haven't seen another man with a beard so I guess I'm something seldom seen in these parts! As far as cars go, KIA's and Hundays are the most common, there have been a few BMW's and some Mercedes, lots of SUV's and mini vans which seems strange because there is zero parking around here. I've also seen some that make a mini Cooper look big, don't know what they are. Anything larger than a car has a mirror attached to the back so the driver can see his rear bumper for parking! I had to ask what they were for because I had never seen anything like it... The hardest thing to find so far is some "Korean" stuff for the wife and kids, every thing here is made in the USA! and all of the t shirts say things like "Gap, NY Yankees" you name it, funny all of the same stuff I could get at Wal Mart for half the price! Food here is expencive, a large Pizza Hut pizza runs around 35.000 won, $37 US, eating out can brake the bank! Well just a week to go till that big bird takes me home!

Well I'm going on week two here in Korea, not a single Z of any year seen in the last week, I've seen some pretty funny ricers and some other odd things like green brake lights but no Z's On the other hand though I don't think I've seen a single car that is more than 5 years old either, everyone seems to be driving new cars, haven't seen a single beater anywhere. It's a different place and I'm ready to go home, thank goodness for this site, it's been helping me keep my sanity!

Clear powder coat would be perfect or a color of your choice, there is always just regular old paint too. Putting any of the oils on them would be a temporary fix and just attract more crud.

I think the fronts are all the same, it's the rears that are different between the years and NA or turbo.

First you have to have a powder coaters to take it too, if you don't then doing it at home becomes an only option.

Ha that is all too funny, I bet if you were to talk to him on the phone every sentence would start with "Dude" OK 5800+500= 6300 Dude

On another site I vist there was a simular thread, the HF guns were given the thumbs up. Small parts were baked in a toster oven, larger in a full size. And like Tom said don't use the house oven, could give you a once in a lifetime bad tasting roast from the nasty chemicals that may stay behind. I'm considering building a larger box from sheetmetal and making it easy to assemble/disassemble and insulate it with fiberglass bats and just install my own heating elements and control. These are pretty cheap from stove repair places and the setup would allow for larger/more pieces at a fairly low investment since I'm not planning on making a living doing this stuff...

I've been using a 3 wheel stand for 20+ years, one of these days I'll modify it to 4 but till then.... Anyway when rolling these stands always push from the front of the engine and steer from the rear, that way if you hit something with the single wheel you won't be doing the nose dive with all of the engine weight out front. That dosen't sound very clear, what I mean is push the stand with the single wheel trailing instead of leading, you will not have the tipping problems.