dhoneycutt

Got it all back to gether today and all is well. The wealth of knowledge on this site is very welcome. I have been a member of other sites where if and when you got a reply it was some smart A-- answer that didn't help. You guys and gals saved me a bunch of headaches and money THANKS!

Carl...THANKS!!! That helped out tremendously I was able to find the marks on the replacement strut tubes. Now all I need to do is measure the distance pieces I have and verify/order the correct ones.

I went back to the FSM and looked at pages RA-9 and RA-10 and it shows where the marks are "suppose to be" and so I went out and looked at both sets of strut tubes and I'll be if I could find any. I will just measure my current distance pieces and buy the next size or two larger. More money and more put together and tear apart but no guessing once it is completed. Arrgh I hate used cars!!!

Thanks Carl. You just reinforced what I was also thinking. You all are the greatest. Is there a specific location on the strut housing where it should be marked?

If, when I torque it down it gets hard to rotate, then that would mean the distance piece is too short right? If that is the case then I should be able to measure the distance piece that I have and purchase the next size larger to make it right. I just got an email from Courtesy Nissan. The shims are NLA but I can get the distance pieces still Am I on the right track or did I open a can of worms?

Thanks Carl and others who have responded. I am not sure how to post a picture from the ZCar Microfiche CD so I will try to describe what I think you all are talking about. I have to start at the beginning to try and explain so please bear with me :classic: I ordered a new set of struts and springs and went to replace the rears and found out that the PO had put in late model Z car strut tube assys.(Larger diameter tubes and longer tubes) so had to get 240Z rear strut tubes to finish. Took everything apart paying attention to what went where. Received the correct strut tubes and refinished them. repacked bearings after checking them out and got new seals. greased it all up and put it back together and tightened the axle nut now they turn very difficultly. In your reply Carl you quoted a previous mail list which talked about shimming. Can you tell me if the shims he was referring to are p/n 4211-N3400 labeled as "Washer-Bearing, Rear Axle"? There are two of them one on each side of the p/n 43091-E4100 labeled as "Piece, Distance Bearing". I just want to make sure because I really don't want to take this all apart again. As I stated when I started this thread, There are no extra parts. Those weren't in the old strut tubes. Thank you guy and gals for your help. I am sorry this is so long winded

I just got finished putting back together the rear stub axles what a PITA!!! My question is this: How easy are they suppose to rotate :stupid: All was well until I torqued the axle nut on the back. Now they turn but it is hard to do. I don't have any parts left over and I put them in the way they came out :tapemouth so is it right???

I agree with Carl. It will take some "Selling" of their business if they want mine. I Got great referal from the folks here about Chloe and she lived up to that when I needed her help. These new people got some proving to do before I give up the ole green.

MEEEEEEEE......TOOOOOOOO Count me in as well.

attached is a picture of something in my engine compartment and I can't find any thing on it in the FSM or haynes or :stupid: All I know is that the one fitting was connected to the stock air cleaner assy but since I went with individual K&N's I don't have a place to connect it to. Does anyone know what it's purpose is?

As Keith/Carl have said do the steering rack and coupler while the engine is out. I did it the hard way...What a PITA :tapemouth :stupid: :tapemouth :stupid: :tapemouth :stupid: :tapemouth

If you go to my gallery you will see a few pictures of what once used to be a nice 1972 C10 before the accident in Las Vegas, NV.

I personally like the G-Nose for the Z after seeing them in person. They look even better than in pictures. I am trying to save the $$$ so that when I get ready to do the body work I can add the nose to it then.

I just love the sound of Normally Aspirated engines!!! I know that it costs a little much but worth every penny. Go with carbs and contact ZTherapy and spend a little. You get much more in return. I spent about $780 USD and got the ZTherapy carbs, polished intake manifold, cleaned up balance tube (polished) the 4 hour video on how to set up and tune the carbs and that included shipping! Their web address is: www.ztherapy.com Hope that helps!

Yes, You just change the position of your hands and shake. The 3 and 9 position checks for play on the tie rod ends and steering rack and the 12 and 6 position checks for play on the ball joints. Your not dumb...their is no stupid question except for the one you don't ask. This site has a wealth of information on it just search and find or if you can't find, just ask.

Unfortunately as I mentioned earlier I haven't had the opportunity to drive the Z yet so I don't know if I just wasted the money on those yet or not? I will keep my fingers crossed and see. The installation on the ball joints is really straight forward and nothing to mess up with the exception of ruining the threads, not putting grease in, or failing to tighten properly. If your still getting "play" then I would follow mdbrandy and bambikiller240's suggestion on brands and replace them. Especially if you do 100 plus! FWIW my $.02 worth

Ian240...I purchased mine from the same person adn got them installed also. Very Pleased!!! I unfortunately am held up on some other issues so haven't had the opportunity to drive the Z yet:( I am waiting albeit impatientlyLOL

MikeW...Thanks for the zipped pdf file. That helped me also. Do you know if someone has something similar like that step by step with pictures to rebuild the Turn signal switch assy?

I wish I could get it in the US without any hassles:stupid: Oh well

mdbrandy...what do the two wires coming off of the bottom of the ignition switch conect to?

I'd like to have one on the Z. I have one on the then newly released 1989 Skyline GT-R I picked up in Okinawa when I was there in 1987-1990:love:

Tells you what I know:stupid: I thought the only difference in the bodies were the tail lights...:stupid:

Has anyone put in a solid mount crossmember? (ie...no rubber insulators, just bolted solid to transmission and body) What are the pros? cons? I am just thinking and would like some feedback. Thanks.

It makes me sad to know that I was unable to attend the festivities:disappoin and meet all the people I read about here and get knowledge and help from. But it also makes me glad cuz nobody got to see my car in it's poor shape. Soon to be driveable but it sure won't be pretty any time soon. Have to get more funds to finish it. I just can't wait until it is complete if that is ever possible, before I can enjoy it again behind the wheel:D Thanks for the write-ups. It does remind me of the one ride I had in an honest to goodness 432 Fairlady when I was stationed on Okinawa in...well a while agoLOL WHAT A RUSH!!!!!