ZmeFly

More then likely the dreaded clunk is the diff mount and or Ujoints. Most likely the ladder. Just lift your car by the diff, support it with jack stands and blocks in front of the front tires. Start the car or have someone else do it. Gently ease it into gear. Take a look and see whats happening. Unless someone did a conversion on your car it more then likely will have a R180 open differential. One legger. Good luck

It was in my favorites:( I dont know what happened to it. This is what I call one of my most favorite Z's of all time!

for me at least is to raise the rear of the car and start it or have someone else do this and put it into gear to see whats going on. One of many things it could be, diff strap, ujoints, shafts, diff mount. One other thing, if you choose this route please be very safety cautious as you never know what can happen.

If I were you though I would drop the Pirelli's off the list immediately. Never had a good set of Pirelli's Heres a good tire you didnt mention also, BF Goodrich T/A KDW http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+T%2FA+KDW&vehicleSearch=false&partnum=445YR6GFTAKDW&fromCompare1=yes

I didnt know that, just saw them here today and thought what a great price, I believe Courtesy sells these for like 50 or 60 dollars.

I found these on ebay and they are really cheap, just like the factory FSM's on CD you see from COURTESY NISSAN, but at atarting bid of 9.99, highest so far is 15.99 w/free shipping! heres the link, most end today in 6 hours, though there are a few more ending in a couple of days. http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=ag_eclipse&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

Those wheels are also one of my favorite wheels for the Z car. Good find!!

but doesnt the oil pan bolt into the timing cover on all Z's

what year is your vehicle? did you make sure to bleed the mc and the slave? let me know

throw your bosch plugs away, you do not own a german sports car. honestly though i recomend that you use only NGK plugs. never had any problems and if you ask anyone on this board im sure they will tell you the same. two are you doing the test with the engine warm and throttle open. are you sure your vavles are properly adjusted and timing is in spec. make sure that your car is in tune to the best of your knowledge and then do your tests again, like i said before, adjust valves time engine, check compression when engine is warm with the throttle open. good luck and let us know the results

IMHO what makes them special is the people that own them and build them. ive been inot Z cars since high school. there is nothing around that looks like them, drives like them and can be modified like them. i would say the best Z to date i had owned was a 72 that i built up myself, probably why i like it the most. things i loved about the car firs was that looks. it just looks damn good no matter what angle you look at it. second handling, i can corner this car like no other and was never afraid or never lost any confidence in its ablity ever. third, power, yes i said power and this was out of a built 2.4 straight six that had no trouble keeping up with or passing most V8's, even surprised a 84 "vette" once whne i passed him after he thought i was insignificant. fourth a solid, trustowrthy, strong balanced engine. no vibrations, smoothe throttle response and torque curve. RWD with IRS the cost of this car for me was 2500, rebuilt the motor bored over .060, head port and polish, larger valves 460 lift 270/280 duration cam, 5 speed 336 differential, poly bushings through out, SST springs and sway bars, front strut tower bar. dual weber carbs. after building cost was about 6k out ran and out drove most everything out there and looked ans sounded fantastic. wouldnt hesitate to drive it anywhere. also if you wish i could post the video of the Z beating the pants off of a Z06 vette threw the twisties. if thats isnt enough for you what is?

Im with you 120% on that. Now if I could talk you into shipping me a front cut :devious:

if your lights are weak do like Rusty said, make sure you have good connections and earth grounds. it is part of the Z ritual to remove and clean all contact as well. (ESPECIALLY THE GROUNDS!!) with that remember also that the Z alternator was if i remember correctly only a 60 amp alt. not a lot of power there. with the light issue, check your grounds first, my 71 i replaced the wires going to them and made new grounds which made for perfect head lights. temp senor is the first i would check on the temp gauge then the guage itself. do a self test on the antifreeze to see what its reading from the radiator. remove your alternator and take it to any local parts store most will check them for free. if your alt is good well only one other thing as the others stated voltage regualtor. good luck

but like i said, the easiest, cheapest, most cost effective way to get there is a turbo swap. it will take a good amount of money for a na powered motor to make a reliable 250 @ the fly he could easily get that out of a turbo swap and spend money elsewhere like brake suspension upgrades and the like to handle that power. with that said, it would be of no use either way unless your car is capable of handling that power to begin with.

one is scottiegnz's 240Z. 10.39 @ 136.9 in the 1/4 gn powered 240Z second all motor 240Z with su's is norms 12.89 @ 107 if i remember correctly, the 12 second time is correct though. there is also though it is not a 240Z but a Z31 Turbo that runs 7's:cross-eye and still maintains the stock interior

how many people have a "STOCK" skyline

to get there and also get about 28-30 mpg, simply put is a turbo swap plain and simple.

its a carbie head, it will work and you could make it work with fi if you spend some money. i would go with a N42 head if your looking to go fi

your only option for vented rotors at a cheap price is to go with the toyota 4 piston calipers with 300ZX rotor. as far as the master you will get all kinds of replies on this one, my point is when it comes to stopping i like to know its going to work and its new! i would also before you invest in a MC, to check your rubber brake lines, and booster. make sure thats the problem first

flomasters sound just outright obnoxious, to me anyway, thats my opinion, cant stand the sound of them, that with the fact that they are so baffled that they dont really perform well at all. you would be better off with a dynomax or a magnaflo over the flomaster. as most have already stated a good 2.25 for a stock enginged Z will be enough. best system i heard on a stock motor was a dynomax bullet muffler with there straight threw design muffler out the back. 2.5 inch sounded mean at idle but didnt rattle your mind going down the road at speed. mandrel bends btw are the only way to go. 2.25 inch pipe in a press bend can shrink to 1.85 inch pipe, ie making your system a 1.85 inch system, why thats the bottle neck

yea right!!!!!!!! with the current engine there is no way in HELL, ill be beating a skyline anytime in the near future. on another note ive always wanted to go to japan or australia or new zealand just to get to see and drive a skyline, older gts and the like. to endulge myself in the finer things of life that we dont have here in the usa unfortunately

I was hoping for low 13's but I guess I cant expect to much at first. I figure with pushing the T3 to its limits at 18#'s of boost and 370cc injectors Ill at least be deep into the 13's. Im shooting for consistent 12's though, even 12.95 . Just as long as I get it there Ill be happy for a little while anyway:devious:

go for it:classic:

and if you have a 78 280Z with 5 speed you have a 3.70 rear which is why you were in 4th. i have a 3.54 rear and hit 5th in the 1/4 times for a stock 280Z are about 16+ for the 1/4

is located in the passenger kick panel