Everything posted by Zpenman
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Interesting Video Restoration
Great video, Mike. It's great to see real craftsmen at work.
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Starts when cold, then won't fire again
Anyone think this could be an issue associated with the ballast resistor?
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Gunson Colortune Always Yellow
Thanks, Yarb. I saw the Feb date but not the year. lol
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Signals acting up
Amazing that old flasher is still ticking!
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Gunson Colortune Always Yellow
I know you have the choke cables disconnected, but just make sure they aren't sticking closed. Had this happen on my '71, and it drove me crazy.
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1970 240Z Works Rally - the road to restoration
Great video, thanks! And the Z's took both 1st and 2nd.
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Seeking Heater Box Refresh / Coolant Work Advice
Refurbished the heater box in my '71 last winter. Discovered a few pinhole sized leaks in the heater core and decided to use some Bar's radiator stop leak in lieu of replacing the core. So far, so good, no leaks with the heater going (never cold enough here to use it, but I do test it when I take the car out). My car is an auto transmission and does use the transmission oil cooling. Sorry for the late addition.
- Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build
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Wiper rebuild
After taking a second look at the closeup picture, I realized that the positioning of the passenger side linkage going to the pivot was wrong. I installed the linkage on the outboard side of the pivot, not the inboard side per the picture. Common sense should have told me that it was oriented wrong, but a picture is worth a thousand words. Once corrected, the wipers work like new. Thanks again for the pics, Richie, I'll be sure and take more before I tear anything else apart.
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Wiper rebuild
Thanks, I didn't think there was a missing part but now I know for sure. Didn't even disassemble the linkage, so that shouldn't be a problem.
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Wiper rebuild
I took pictures, and the orientation looks like your pic. Was there any kind of spacer on the motor shaft that fits between it and the linkage? Didn't recall seeing one, just a flat-washer, lock-washer, and a nut to that attaches the linkage to the motor. I'm thinking the motor shaft is canted with respect to the linkage and binding it up tight. I'll mess with it tomorrow. You have one clean car, Ritchie!
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Wiper rebuild
The wipers on my '71 were a little slow so I removed the motor & linkages and gave them a thorough cleaning. Prior to working on this the wipers moved in both slow and fast, and the parking function worked normally. The pivots were surprisingly corrosion free and turned easily. The joint closest to the motor was pretty stiff and after cleaning all of the linkages turned freely. I lubed with lithium grease after cleaning. After reinstalling, the wipers would not move in slow or fast. I know the linkage is binding somewhere, but not sure how to correct this. I disconnected the linkage from the motor and the motor is functioning just fine. Any ideas?
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
Very clean car but shouldn't it have flat-tops?
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
Off-topic, DC871F, did you happen to fly those rascals or are you just a fan of those great Douglas products?
- Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build
- Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
Just for future reference, what is considered to be the cutoff date for the "Series I" vehicles?
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Original carpet --- and Chester and Herrod
I used the bottled Rit black dye, one bottle for each 27 gallon plastic tub. I filled each tub about half-way full with the garden hose and then added the dye. Put the hatch carpet section in one tub and the front/rear seat sections in the other tub. Mixed it a bit with a big stick. Let it sit over night. Turned the sections over about half-way through just to make sure the dying was even. Rinsed the carpet the next day with the hose and set them out in the sun to dry. Make sure they are completely dry before reinstalling them. In bright outdoor light, some areas tend to have a purplish sheen, similar to a bad hair-dye job. The sheen is not too noticeable when the carpet is installed in the car. In retrospect, probably should have used two bottles of dye for each tub. A carpet set from Black Dragon Auto was previously installed in the car, but I was never happy with the fit. I've since noticed that a lot of these new carpet kits don't have the slots and fittings to hold the carpet in place like they should. Glad I saved the originals.
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Original carpet --- and Chester and Herrod
Just dyed the original carpet from my '71 and was happy with the way it turned out. Of course the dye job didn't fix the frayed edges or a few tears in the fabric but the color is much richer now and had the added benefit of cleaning out the accumulated dust and dirt
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71' Fuel Filter Level
The car drives just fine after tuning it up a bit. Can't believe the difference in spark between the points and the Pertronix, as viewed with the colortune. Have a slight vacuum leak at the butterfly shaft on the fwd carb, but that's a battle for another day. Thanks again for the help, everyone.
- Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build
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71' Fuel Filter Level
Installed the Pertronix and gave her a full tune-up (used the tune-up proc from ZCarGuide.com). Took me all day as I dropped the Empi flow-gauge and had to repair it. Car is idling great now but didn't get a chance to test drive it due to the rain (wipers are inop right now). Are all 240s so cold-blooded as mine? Pretty warm here in SoCal but it still takes at least 5 minutes to warm the car up with choke.
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71' Fuel Filter Level
Thanks for the tip, 240dkw! Replaced the newly replaced condenser (no markings on where it was made, purchased from NAPA) with a Delco condenser (made in Mexico) and she started right up. Still going to install the Pertronix ignition once it's delivered. Will be interesting to see the difference between the two setups.
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71' Fuel Filter Level
I ordered a Pertronix coil and inductor to replace the points-based ignition. Going to keep the original dizzy. Finally took the advice from many of you to do this conversion. Realize this doesn't belong on the carburetor central thread anymore but it would be kind of pointless to move it now, right? During troubleshooting I was getting some fluctuating voltages at the coil with the varying key positions so I decided to change the electrical portion of the start key (back-end). Bought a Beck/Arnley ignition switch from Amazon and was pleased with how easy it was to change out. Didn't want to replace the whole ignition switch as it is original and the same key opens both the door and hatch. Will post once the new ignition is installed. Thanks for all of the support!
- Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build