Richie G

Thank you both looks like it's back to the junk pile for a third if I can't get this one to unstuck. Now that I think of it when I received it it still had hoses attached and when I took the old hoses off there was a piece of electrical tape covering the secondary Airport where air would enter under vacuum I thought maybe somebody did that just for shipping but it seems now that they realized it was stuck open and had taped shut the secondary port to prevent full-time air coming into or through the valve which probably was creating a full-time lean air condition hard to deal with.

@Patcon good news bad news i think. So first i tested the old one that had the pieces fall out and has some rattle. wont hold vacuum at all so i think that convinces me that one is trash. the "new" one I was able to find a fitting and pump to 25mmhg and it holds for quite a bit. that's the good news. the bad news is the valve doesnt seem to change, still easily blows through it. So either the valve is stuck open or maybe i need more pressure i can't generate? does 25mmhg match what one would expect under normal driving conditions? assuming this is enough pressure, any idea what would be a safe way to try and get the valve moving again?

I might Maybe one of the attachments from a brake bleeder kit I have might fit and I think I can hand pump some vacuum there I'll try in a little bit and report back good idea.

Wondering if someone can answer / confirm this for me. I just received a valve from a pick and pull that looked like it was in really good shape. It needs some cleaning up but no rattle inside. What's interesting is that the difference I see is that air freely flows through the valve when i blow through it where as the one i took off the car you can't at all. So it got me thinking, this valve as described in what material i could find operates by allowing secondary air in to lean the mixture out when you suddenly release the throttle "When the throttle is released intake manifold pressure falls, and through a small hose connection to the gulp valve, this vacuum causes the gulp valve to open. This allows air from the air pump to enter the intake manifold and lean out the fuel/air mixture, preventing backfiring" And in looking at this diagram i found, seems to confirm that So with that said, would it make sense that the valve should stay "open" for air to pass through when no vacuum is applied at all, meaning i have it out of the car. I would think so right? if a drop in pressure allows the secondary air in then I would think the "at rest state" of the valve is fully open if no pressure when fully disconnected is present. That would mean the one I just received probably is good right? I'm a few weeks away from even installing and firing up for the first time to really tell.

This one. Whatever was going on that night with search also kept giving me a response that my post was missing required information so I might have hit submit a few times I tried to go back and edit and delete post but I guess only administrators can do that.

anti backfire yes 71 240z stock engine

Working my way through the engine bay and starting to take apart and get ready for some work replacing the mess of hoses left by PO. I took the AB valve and corresponding hose off and a bunch of what i would say looks like petrified carbon fell out. Some of it is typical dust and small particles but a few are large and pretty "square" so I'm wondering if this is some sort of broken diaphragm, or gasket or something in there? Or is it just carbon that formed this way? Last i had the car running about 6 months ago I don't recall any backfire, how would I know if this valve is still good? Or is there a way to disassemble and clean it? BTW search seems to be down so i couldn't get anywhere.

Thanks. Not too concerned about originality for these four screws was just trying to find something that described the size and thread so that either walking in the Home Depot gives me a head start or I can search the web. I appreciate the link

Thanks so much. I'll hit the home depot and grab an assortment bag. Could these M5 be it https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/m5-screw-10-pc-set-for-inspection-lamp-fresh-air-ducts-brake-check-valve-holder-inner-fender-rubber-flap-fuel-filler-protective-panel?variant=40854607659117

Silly question but as I put everything back together I can't seem to find the right screws for the bracket that holds the pull knob for the under dash fresh air vent. I went through two boxes of old junk screws to even see if i can find a match but no luck. Anyone know what they are? They seem to be self threaded like some kind of sheet metal screw but nothing i have wants to bite and stay tight without tearing the threads. or is it some odd machine thread? i don't seem to feel a nut behind it or see any type of machine threads like most of the bolted connections.

Thank you both but I don't see any pictures in the last post cantech

I've been searching for pictures but can't seem to find the right one. I'm starting to get the console and the heater control panel put back in and the previous owner had a hell of a mess of all the wires back there. So my question is do I route the pigtails for the fuse box cigarette lighter and defroster under the bracket for the radio or do I route it over the bracket for the radio. I've seen lots of pictures of the wiring harness Vinyl cover and all the wires hanging underneath the glove box side of the console but it's hard to tell how much of it is actually tucked in behind the heater control panel. I'm thinking it goes outside the radio bracket so that when I slide the radio in it's easier I just want to be sure before I start putting this all together here's a picture I took with the way I currently have it wired the main harness is coming down the side and then the parts I mentioned would be run under the radio to get to the fuse box cigarette lighter and console

Thanks granny good to know, will try that next time. Just not on the old fuel hoses 🤣

BTW, I started putting the resurrected hoses in today and a little trick for those that need it. Almost every braided hose I've come across has little "frays" on the end like this what i do is wrap the end in this cloth electrical tape once you put the tape around its really easy to trim those loose hairs with a standard scissor and you aren't struggling with the braids unwrapping while you do it. the color is a perfect match and once the clamps go on you cant even see it

Update. I've started dry fitting the vinyl and noticed that the traditional cutouts for the seat rails and the typical pattern of slices near the firewall as it curves would expose some of the padding I just laid down. Didn't like that so took some of the old headliner I just replaced (so glad I kept the skin) and placed pieces to hide the grey padding once the vinyl is done. i used the same scotch tape from the headliner experiment and it works great. I'm using these pieces as a test run to see if this tape can be used for the actual vinyl itself rather than messy glue (just like i did the headliner). Here I did the entire under heater core box, looks great and the rails

My two cents as a relative newbie to all this. i have a 6/71 build HLS3036219 and am not the original owner so i don't know what was original or not. By date and VIN it should be a pure series 2. the PO did a terrible job of restoring and took so many shortcuts its shameful. trying my best to correct all that I can. As i'm doing this I realize that the most important thing is to make your car what you want with it. I had to address seat mechanism issues and took the ebay route. Well what I did was get a 72 pair of seats which isn't correct for the car but its correct for me since I like the idea of the better reclining function. I also had to replace the fan, the original metal one was a mess well I decided to get the 72 plastic one to save wear and tear on the water pump, and the list could go on. So enjoy your cars, build and tinker to suit your needs. We wont be here forever so enjoy it.

Things are coming together quicker than expected and I got to the headliner today. I had purchased one from the z store almost two years ago but was severely delayed with the project. It came with the typical spray on glue but before IO went to tackle this i had a moment of hesitation. I still have the dash in the car and the thought of over spray and drippings of that glue (its 104 today in Roseville) really had me pause. I was thinking about the recent dynaliner experience with the peel off backing and thought why not do the same for the headliner. So I went to the home depot near me and after looking around decided on this since it was the stickiest, had a high temp resistance, and was relatively thin compared to others of the same strength a single roll ended up covering the entire liner in strips from front to back about 3 in apart. I made sure not to get too close to the ends on all 4 sides since I knew I had to tuck under the edges. TIP - Make sure to draw center lines in both directions and place some painters tape on the vinyl side to match so you can see the tape when attempting to stick to the ceiling. This allows for easy orientation with the center of the mirror mount and the lamp light cutout. I started with by doing the soundproof (highly recommend, the roof now is like a modern car After laying out the tape on the back of the pad I used the same 1 inch roller that I pressed down the soundproof to really press down the tape onto the back of the liner. I made sure it wouldn’t peel up without some real tugging. Once I was happy I pulled the red backing from the center line only and attached it to the roof right down the center line using the painters tape as guides I then worked on the passenger side first removing all red backing and carefully working from center towards door fram pressing the liner up onto the ceiling. Was very happy with how smooth and easy it was and did the driver to match. When I was done I had about 2 inch of material exposed on the doors frames and an inch or so on front and back. TIP – DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO TRIM, it will all fit with gentle tucking The front is the most visible so I decided to start dead center with a tool for scraping glue from windows I was surprised how easily it tucked under the front and went from center to edge in both directions in maybe 45 secs I then went down each side to the turn at the back and finally across the back. Finished product looks factory new! Time will tell if I took an easy way out and this droops from heat or deterioration of the pad but I feel it was the right thing to do considering my circumstances and doing the least amount of harm to the dash 😊 Total install was less than 20 mins, way faster and less messy than spray or roll on adhesive in my opinion.

Here's some of the coolant and heater hoses from resurrected.

I'm at that point that i needed to put back the insulation after restoring floorboards and sound deadening. I had done my research on here and found excellent material with large printer format templates for the cutouts but I didn't have a printer to do it on. So I did it the old fashioned way with cutout by cutout tailor like approach. i made measurements along the way if its helpful for anyone without the ability to use autocad or a large printer. I decided to start with the dynaliner material i had seen on here a few years ago when I was ripping the old matted disgusting wool pad out. This stuff seemed easy with stick on backing and a great smooth surface for the eventual spray on headliner cement for the vinyl . Here it is if anyone hasn't seen it on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-11103-Dynaliner-Self-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B001JT5NIU/ref=asc_df_B001JT5NIU?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989522876749&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589102084678&psc=1 If you layout the piece you get its pretty close to the exact full length of the tunnel from firewall to rear tunnel at the hatch. (I have an early 71 btw, maybe a slightly different length for the series 1?). Now I do have to admit, this probably would have been easier if i took the dash out, but i decided to do it in a few smaller sections instead to avoid that. My first step was to do a full single piece from the hatch to the dash mounts on the tunnel. Like many others, i started with a center line to help orient things. My measurements ended up being 42 1/2 " from those mounts to the hatch so I cut that first section out of the full piece leaving the full width. Here's the final with cutouts and I'll get to the dimensions of each in a minute Oh and I see you get some bonus toes thrown in for good measure! I then laid the piece out with the center line down the tunnel and made my first cut for the console mounts by measuring from the back of the piece forward. it was 6 in exactly and the rectangle was 5x1.5 then to the other mount measured from the first cut to the next, again exactly 6" and 2.25/1.25 then to the choke location, same method from previous cut to new cut 3" and 3x9 the last easy center line cut was only an 1" and I used the inner shift boot as a template next cutout for the brake was a little different since it was off center. i took measurements from the rear as 15.75 and from centerline as 3" making a rectangular cut 6x2.5 that was all the difficult ones and the pad fit near perfectly which had me very pleased. What i did next was to start by measuring the back section of the tunnel which was the shortest and easiest to cut, again measuring from rear and centerline to the "curve" where the tuinnel meets the raised floor behind the seats. IMPORTANT TRICK, use painters tapoe when measuring curved surfaces then just layout the tape on the pad and slice. My measurements were 9.5 from center and 7.5 from rear to the point where the floor starts to curve. the other side was symmetrical so i did the same all that was left were seat rails, again measuring everything from the rear and center line on the pad rear rail was 11.5 from rear and 10.5 from center with a narrow .5 slit front rail again from rear of mat was 25 from rear and 9.5 from center with again .5" slit but in the shape of an L (sorry no pic) Again both sides symmetrical so did the same on the other side last step was to place it on the tunnel and then just follow the contour of the floor to trim as needed and to trim around the fuse and lighter mounts. IMPORTANT TIP Make sure to fit not once but twice everything dry wiothout removing the backing until you have it just right Once this piece is in you'll have the hang of this and all the tough parts are done, the rest is to use the scraps to fill in the easy parts under the dash. most of these are square and you can use the painter tap trick to get exact lengths. make sure to leave enough overlay at the bottom and just trim to what you need. Some shots of final product ready for vinyl I'll probably have to trim around the fuse box and lighter mounts, maybe even under the radio before i put it all back but i wanted to cover everything i could and work backwards as needed rather than try to add little pieces after those instalations. Not concourse, not perfect, nothing magical but hopefully helpful for someone. BTW, the single piece of dynaliner may run you a little short, I think i may have used some scraps from a previous piece i had for something else. I cant tell since all the scraps ended up in one pile where they were coming from but its real darn close if you are economical with your cuts.

amazing work. the tape peeling at the end gave me goose bumps lol, so satisfying to watch the sand blasting. very ASMR type feel to it.

Both the inner and the outer really held up well. I would have no problem recommending them. Some people mentioned they had fitment problems maybe I got lucky but it fit perfectly and normal weather stripping contact black cement was all I needed. Now I did go really slow and only did a section at a time mostly because I just didn't have the ability to remove the hatch and do it properly I had like 20 clamps per side I would do a side move on to the next side and go in four turns so it took me like 4 days and maybe that's why it held so well because of the amount of Vice and the length of time it took me to do it

I'm not an electrical expert but I believe acceleration should be increasing voltage in the car and so maybe the horn only works when you accelerate because at idle your voltage is too low. Have you tested voltage either across your battery or across the leads to the horn? I don't know what values they should be but it does sound like increase voltage is enough either through the relay or at the horn to make it work when you accelerate.

thanks but thats a shot of the section i worked on and restored, you should have seen the before 🙂 Heres the full parts from the linkage and motor arm heres a shot of the closeup arm to the motor I dont recall there being anything more than a nut and lock washer / flat washer to the motor conenction

it sounds like maybe you put it back together not exactly as it came apart. Did you take lots of pictures to see the orientation of arms and order of pivot and end assembly? Can you move the arms at all by hand when disconnected from the motor? If its all connected in proper order they should easily wipe by moving the pivot arm that would be connected to the motor. They should move freely, there's nothing to prevent that once disconnected from the motor. Heres a pic of what they should look like and the orientation without the motor

Great work what does Dave's harness do? I'm not familiar with that.