adivin

According to EuroDat the full travel is 35mm, but the operating travel is 25mm. I did measure on my cylinder and was only getting half of that. I'm not convinced my slave cylinder is able to travel 25mm. I have no leaks and I bled the mc again but no improvement. I could hold off and get another self-adjusting cylinder just for kicks but I think I'm in denial.

Well, I backed off the adjustment nut two revolutions and the clutch stopped disengaging and there is still constant fork pressure on the pp. I will bleed the MC one more time, and then I bite the bullet and put the longer collar in. 😞

Yes, that is exactly what I'm saying. I am going to play with the adjustment and hopefully I can find the happy spot.

Right, this is where I'm at now. I guess just trial and error? I'm worried that when I finally get enough clearance between bearing and plate, the clutch won't disengage again.

I tried this initially but the clutch wouldn't disengage. I finally adjusted the crap out of it (my last pic) and the clutch disengages but I have no gap between bearing and plate. I need to adjust it where the clutch still disengages and where the bearing is not up against the plate all the time. I guess this is just trial and error.

What I'm trying to say is that with this adjustment, I don't have 2mm of clearance\travel between the bearing and the PP fingers. The clutch fork is tight against the PP even when the clutch pedal is not depressed. I am supposing I need to back off the adjustment nut to find the point at which the clutch still disengages when pressed, but yet the bearing is not up against the PP when the clutch is released.

Breakthrough I hope...while waiting for a new collar to come in, I decided to adjust the slave cylinder to what I thought was an extreme amount. I desperately didn't want to drop the tranny again. The rod is now tight against the fork and there is zero play in the cylinder, BUT low and behold the clutch disengages. The car rolls forward while in gear with the clutch in. I hope the clutch doesn't slip now. I need to find where the sweet spot is. Taking out the clearance and backing the nut 1.5 turns per the FSM is too much and the clutch won't disengage from there. I have no way of measuring a 2mm gap (FSM) from the bearing plate springs. Trial and error? I guess this adjustment is ok as long as the clutch doesn't slip?

Yea, it's really weighing me down!

I haven't had a chance to get under the car yet. Work has me tied up.

If the last 1/2 inch was the pilot bushing, what would make it so difficult?

I knew better than to use the bolts to draw it in, but it was a very difficult install for that last inch or so. The only way I could get it was with the engine and trans both out of the car.

Yes, I am running a 240mm clutch. I was just about to order the collar for a 280ZX.

Well, the clutch that I received should work for my application according to the vendor. He suggested getting a collar for a 280ZX. I'm not sure which one that is.

Everyone hold the phone. I now suspect I was sent the wrong clutch and pressure plate! From looking at my order info and part numbers, it appears I may have been sent a clutch kit for a 89-96 300ZX...dammit! I will confirm this with the vendor tomorrow. This could be the problem ya think? It could also explain why it was such a bitch to get the tranny installed. The last half inch was a bastard.

So assuming this is my problem, and I'm about 7mm shy of 92mm, I should get the L26 or Type B 5 Speed?

Ok, I didn't realize 92mm was universal. Thanks for that info. On my measurement picture, the end of my ruler is touching the workbench that the pressure plate is on. I am measuring from the workbench on up to the collar.

I had it adjusted out until the fork was putting pressure on the pressure plate springs, so much so that the rod itself started spinning and I could no longer advance the nut. Hmm...

Thanks Mark, I will check this out. What do you mean by, lengthen the rod? How?

Thanks Zed, I will do this and report back. I will also take note of where the "thunk" is coming from. I am glad to know my slave cylinder is operating in the full range of motion. That eliminates everything from the MC back. By the way, what is the origin of the magical 92mm stack height? Can you take a look again at the picture I posted of my stack measurement and give me your thoughts?

In my first post, I included a video of the slave cylinder while depressing the clutch. It appears I am getting the full range of motion from the slave cylinder, so I think the master cylinder is doing its job. What do you think?

By extend the rod, do you mean adjust the nut out on the slave? On my video, I had the nut adjusted to about 3/4 of the rod length. What do think about my measurements?

Ok, here is my measurement. EuroDat's spec is 115mm. My measurement seems to be 120mm. This somewhat coincides with my stack height of aprox 88mm. I'm about 5mm away from both methods of measurement. The bigger color is 12mm taller I believe. This is frustrating for sure.

The Fidanza thread is a few years old. The instructions they now give are to completely remove the green coating, which i did.

Funny you ask that. It is a Fidanza and Southbend clutch. I did attempt to take some measurements, not really knowing what I was measuring. I have a pic, I don't know if it's useful or not. Also this is a 72 240Z.

New day, new saga. I put in a new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. The master cylinder and slave cylinder are also new. When I put the car into gear, with engine not running, and depress the clutch, I cannot roll the car. Apparently, the clutch is not disengaging. I adjusted the slave cylinder quite a bit also. What am I missing? Attached is a video of the slave cylinder in action. IMG_1719.mov