Curtis240Z

My air dam was from Electromotive way back in the late '70s. I don't believe they are around anymore. I opted for the not ducted air dam for the increased downforce even though the ducted one looks "cooler".

And: Acquire a throwout bearing collar to match the clutch you buy. Remember to remove the automatic bushing in the end of the crankshaft. Jump out the neutral safety switch. Acquire the manual flex plate. Fabricate a clutch pedal stop.

My '71 240Z with full interior, L28, 5-speed, R-200, 3/8 tank of gas, no tools, no spare tire = 2371 lbs

This is mine....

I put on a CSR water pump on a member's 240Z and boy does it stuck the electricity! You will need an upgraded alternator to keep up with it.

There is a offset socket under the cam gear bolt that drives the fuel pump. Assuming it is there, you must make sure you have the fuel pump arm riding on it, NOT below it or the fuel pump will not operate.

You can get the stock rear studs off without pulling out your axles, but putting longer ones in is the problem. I needed real long studs for a friend's 240Z that was using a 50 mm wheel spacer. We finally found some Nismo studs from Japan.

Did you replace the pressure plate and throwout bearing too? The 280Z pressure plate is thinner in height than the 240Z. If you put the throwout bearing on backwards that would also make your travel too long. Just some food for thought.

I agree with dogma420 Tokico Illuminas are the struts to get. Getting a 2" drop on stock length struts would limit your wheel travel, hope you have shorten struts.

Can't see the 16" wheels at all, they are in the shade.

A little heavy footed eh.. The rear tires will wear a little faster than the fronts, but your right foot can really accelerate the wear. Unless you have offset bushings you can't align the rear tires.

Actually when viewed in the package, it was hard to tell the springs were progressive. The Eibach springs are a lot more defined. But when the Tokicos springs were installed you could see only the top coils were bound together and the bottom coils were free. Post #28 at this link shows a picture: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16649&page=2&pp=15

The Tokico spring & shock packages sold for the 240Z from ebay. I put one on a Z Club member's 240Z. Since he autoxes the car we will be changing the springs to Suspension Techniques.

There isn't a problem with Tokicos they make high quaility stuff. The Illuminas are top notch. The issue is using a progressive spring versus a straight rate spring for racing. Progressive springs as the name implies gets stiffer the more you compress it. Straight rate springs are the same stiffness right from the start. So for the street the progressive spring gives you a nice ride, but on the track the "soft" part of the spring makes the car loose. So the choice is yours, comfort on the street or ready for the occasional track use. MSA and Suspension Techniques as well as others make straight rate springs that will fit into the stock perches and lower your car at the same time.

A word of caution with the Tokico springs, they are progressive springs so if you are going to use your car for any kind of racing, it will not work well, but for the street they are fine. With 225/45-17 on a 7" rim, you might have to roll the rear fenders each tire brand is a little different.

Several places sell them like MSA and others. The "basic" parameters you need to remember is without coilovers you can have up to 4" of backspacing, with coilovers you can 5" of backspacing (assuming you want to be able to rotate wheels for wear periodicly). Actual wheel widths when measuring a wheel for backspacing are about 1" wider than advertised (i.e. a 7" wide wheel is actually 8" when measured thus you get a 4" backspacing which equals zero offset). Have I confused you enough?

They are showing you what the rim depth would be with the various offsets. I would think you would want the rim with the minimum offset so your spacer would be minimized. Also the wheel would have a deeper look to it. I also assume you are referring to a 7" wide wheel without coilover suspension.

No swaybar information on their website.

Ron, Is there info somewhere on DP tubular bar? I have DP coil-overs and am very pleased with them. Aloha, Curtis

IMO, Suspension Techniques makes the best engineered ready made kit for the 240Z. I have their competition kit (1 1/8" front, 7/8" adjustable rear) and really like it.

I agree with Vicky 100%.

Ahh....you guys need to live here in Hawaii. We're running around all year in fact some of our club member's Zs are in the Auto Show at the Convention Center right now.

Have you tried insulating the fuel rail? I also used phenolic spacers on the fuel rail supports that are directly touching the fuel rail.

I've found the aftermarket door seals are made from "better" rubber that is more resilient, but for our application makes the doors too hard to close. So now I only use OEM door seals. The rest of the aftermarket weatherstrip kit is good.

On the street or for non-coilover use we prefer Suspension Techniques because they are straight rate springs. JC Whitney still sells them cheap. I am using the Illuminas (modified) on my coilover setup. Illuminas aren't recommended for spring rates over 300 lb so you need to keep that in mind.