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from the back-pull out the heater conrol panel. Will

Vicky, Once a gain, I knew your were a mess! Using vent emblems might make him more excited, they look like coins, can substitute for pasties(ouch), and fit with the Z theme of his conditional dance in the picture! Will

Chris, I guess what Vicky is saying is maybe that behavior wasn't "prudent at that juncture!"- but she still offered you cash for a table dance! Will

Wow when you guys throw a party-dancing on tables, taking over steakhouses, When I was in highschool, A bunch of us in EYC got thrown out of shoneys once and all lined up to moon the manager! But wee never danced on tables... Chris, do you realize Vicky is offering to fund the restoration of 27 if you will just get up and dance on a table-or would she expect more than that... Will

Craig, Is that a blowie up your nose or are you just cranky? Will

Very nice!!! Will

One note to add-I am currently stripping three layers of paint from a '70 roadster, and I am using a RotoZip with a right angle adaptor with scotchbrite pads. The pads extend past the backing/mounting plate by about 1/4" inch when new, I use that portion to get into the dual plane corners of the body, and after the edges of the pad have worn, use the rest of the pad to take off the paint, too "spongy" to do anything but lightly burnish the metal, but very effective on the paint-just keep it moving-as the pad collects paint(and it will), it will generate heat and could create issues if held in place too long. I could have used my airtools, but there is on a strong enough compressor where the car is, and I could not find my old D&D side arm grinder. One other note of interest. This car is outside, and will remain there until it is painted. When I finish stripping paint for the day, I spray all of the exposed metal with a mist of Metal Ready several times, and follow that with three complete wipedowns with a paper towel saturated with Metal Ready. I then tarp the car. As the Metal Ready dries it etches the sheet metal and leaves a zinc-phosphate coating which will protect the metal for about 2 weeks as long as rain does not collect. When I am ready to move on with etching primer, I will take a scotchbrite scourning pad saturated with metal ready and scrub the surface of each panel. This removes the excess zinc phosphate and collected dust while still treating any newly exposed metal. After that step and before the Metal ready has dried fully, I will wipe down the panels with laquer thinner to remove everything left from the scrubbing, and then, after the panel has dreid, wipe down again with laquer thinner, and prime with etching primer. Will

Are they simialr to the Sus on a 70 roadster? Many of the parts are shared. Will

I am exploring the 4 different varieties of Jatco 4NB to find which one is the strongest-probably for the same reasons you are asking these questions. The swap from the Maxima OD has been done, and is outilnes in a tech article on one of the other Z sites. I had no involvement in that, buit it looks fairly easy to do. The reccomended autood tranny for a high output engine is the Jatco out of a Turbo Mitsubishi starion, add to that some 300Z pieces, and you have the group the author of the article reccommends. I went looking for the article on both HyridZ and Zcar.com, but did not find it. I did copy the article, and will see if I can I can find it. Will

It is a four-seater, not a sports car! No self-respecting real man in need of a Z would have one! ...Unless he needed a way to get his three-member immediate family to and from Z-car club meetings like I do-at least my 4 seater is a turbo model. Yes, I know it is a streamlined sedan...at least it is a Z(x)! Will PS, not enough pictures to vote, cleaning up the outside is not the same as a restoration, and that is all we can see was done.

Only if he can sing the Canadian Anthem in the style of Collin Mocheri! Will

Are you suggesting I go play in tranny fluid? I don't care if TC abd Rick are around, you are just plain naughty-go to her room-and take the tranny fluid! Will

TomoHawk, What about doing what the big$ cars do, make a cover and bolt it over the engine-a sort of "Pre-hood" if you will. Make it look like some bodacious intake manifold!! Will

TomoHawk It was a quote from you-don't you know what you had in mind... The only exclusion would be anything that could leave a snailtrail, or resemble Walter Mathau neked(Vicky)!

Autozone here in the USA sells new ones (aftermarket) for about $40 each-depending on turbio or not. Will

Don't forget extra points for Hotties on, in, or near the car.... or as Tomohawk suggested: "Maybe one at speed doing something special..." Female members may take "Hotties" to be male for their posts...gotta keep it fair for the ladies... Will

Tomohawk, Since it is green it must be the ENVY mobile! Will

If you want new, get the sheet metal from the Dealer!!!! I posted some hints and tips for getting the best pricing to an earlier thread-searching fenders should bring it up. Will

Enrique, I have MsOffice Pro in every release. Will

What about scanning a copy of the MF into Textbridge, Omnipage, or other OCR, and exporting the file to Access, and setting up a relational file set? That way all models and parts would be covered, and the supercession data could be used to filter for model specific entries. Leave it to me to complicate the crap out of something... Will

Welcome! I am sure the contortions you will put yourself through to do specific tasks in your restoration will be highly theraputic-or atleast aggravating enough that they should be! Welcome to the club, congratulations on the Z, and remember, if you don't occasionally get something on your hands that takes atleast several days to wear off, you are not really a car guy! Will

Chris, There is no getting "too anal" when it comes to taking care of 26 and 27. Will

I am waiting for a pamphlet we ordered from Nissan Literature-hopefully it will have all in it! Will

I have always found that once the internals of the fuel pump are dry, pouring a little gas into it gets things moving again-where as letting it pull its own prime is a lesson in frustration-but ultimately, it does self prime-just takes a good while longer than I wan to hear it run dry! Will

I am not sure why you need the color code for injectors, they are non polarized(they will fir even with reversed polarity) As to finding out what the enjectors were made for, the numbers on them are the best way to find out-check google for the flow rates on the injector numbers you have-that will enable you to find out where they belong. Will