hls30.com

This thread isn't even a week old, you heard from them yesterday, and you are ready to chuck the whole situation? I understand the frustration enthusiasm brings to a problem, but that still seems mighty quick to chuck the money anad time you have in this head-not to mention its potential. I would give them more time, and explore the other possabilities in the meantime. They did, after all, respond to your contact only yesterday... Will

Lachlan, Think of his trip to puck up the 240Z-and you want him to go to Japan? Sorry Bill, my mouth runneth over... Bumpers are all you need? Must have left the breats and thights alone, and gotten to work on the Z! Great!-where are the pictures..... Will

Here you go! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17754&highlight=fenders Will

Great-again, keep us posted. Will

My vote is to used the polished, and to polish and paint the fuel rail to match. Then you can get the points in a show for consistancy! Will

You said "My 3" mandrel stainless downpipes, 3" mandrel exhaust with 3" stainless flex..." MSA ad says: "The tube is 2.5" in diameter" I want a 3" flange, and have some ideas on a different bend and insulation on and in the down pipe... Not that what you have isn't clearly superior to the factory elbow! A diferent turbo header sounds interesting, been tossing some ideaz on that one too! Will Will

just wipe some of the afore-mentioned rust eaters over it, and prime. I'm in coastal South Georgia-almost never below 90% humidity-that is why I am so careful-not the best environment for bare metal even on a clear day! Will

Great setup! I'll bite on the exhaust flanges-how much? Will

Personally, Water is not the last thing I want on bare metal before it is primered. I use metal ready, ospho, tripple etch,etc, then wipe down with laqueer thinner-no oils or moisture between the metal and the primer-no chance of an oops. Will

They are pretty, but a pair of Sus can go way to the rich side of the A/F ratio, what does the third one do-other than look pretty? Is there a forced induction plenum that should be in the picture too? If you could mount two sets of them right behind the front wheels(one set on each side) wheels to set off that rim....

I would wipe down any metal left bare for more than half an hour with Metal ready, Ospho, or the like just to be sure the pores of the metal are empty-hat to have a vein of rust come up moths after a paintjob! Will

Por is for use where a cosmetic topcoat will not be an issue(not for the beautiful reflective surfaces of the car) it is too dificult to use when the surface above it must be glass-like-use POR for the underside of panels, under the carpet, in the nooks and crannies-it is great for stopping rust dead, but is is hell to apply for cosmetic beauty. All of the phosphoric acid based rust treatments leave a ZincPhosphate coating if allowed to dry on the surface-it will prevent flash rust, and will not create an issue when etching primers are used over it-but do wipe the panel down with thinner, and tack it before shooting the primer or surfacer. When a panel has been properly treated with A phosophoric acid based rust remover, there will be no dark spots on the metal, and the metal will appear mat gray (maybe with with a slightly sticky purple or blue tint as it dries to residue) If there are dark spots, they almost always indicate rust that has not been completely eaten. use a wire brush to aggitate the surface, and keep the area damp with the acid solution. POR.com does have a great number of terrific products to help you in your quest for a rust free Z! Will

Cutting out rust and replacing metal is the most effective. Abrasive rust removal does not purge the rust from the pores of the metal, but if you also use a variant of phosphoric acid to eat the rust out of the pores(Ospho, Metal Ready,...) You have a very close second if the metal has not been perforated(or you do have access to treat the backside). Color of the primer is not important until you are finishing up the bodywork-at the repairing rust stage use an etching primer, as you get the rust handled, then use a sealer, then filler and alternating colors of primer to help your sanding get the bodywork as close to perfect as you can. Enrique has a great article in the archives, and there is one is the current issue of AutoRestorer Magazine-and probably will be one in an upcomming issue of SportZ as Art gets the project car in process... Will Ps the only stupid question is the one you either didn't ask, or use the search function here on the site to help find the answer for.

Never forget the goobers at Barret Jackson are NOT Car people, they are sales people. The rarest cars don't bring the most money, the most popular cars do. They will build up what is HOT on the block by bashing what is not-if and when the Z gets to big dollars, they will say the exact same things about the millions of American Muscle Cars made-they are, at the end of the day, after the dollars are deposited, only used car salesmen-exactly like those at your local POS sales lot! They will say anything that they think will help them make-or keep-a sale, and shut up about anything that won't. Will

Are these the people you are dealing with! "RaVer Motorsports CA 559-733-4711 Vernon and Patti have extensive knowledge of Nissans and their capabilities. Turbos, engine swaps, exceptional headwork, lightened flywheels, bored throttle-bodies, stealthy NO2 setups (custom plate systems), etc., etc.! Basically, nothing is off-limits, and all work is extremely detail-oriented and impeccably well crafted. Honesty and customer service are the backbone of the business. The most honest folks in the import business." If this is them, With the difference between this experience, and the quoted blurb on SE-R.net they have some explaining to do... Will

Have a great trip even without the ketchup! Will

There are now two companies called Dashboard Restorations-one in the USA, and the original in Australia. They were originally the same company-but have split. I had my dash done by them here in the USA, and the job was good but not as good as I expected. Gary(Beandip) knows the ins and outs of both companies, and the people behind the services. He posted a thread detailing the situation-I believe Chris(26thZ) linked it above. Will

Chris, Yep-er! PMTF. Will

Remind Vernon that we are all watching, an investigation by the Better Business Bureau is only an email away, and that ruining a reputation over one head is realy not a good career move, and that not standing behind his work will not look good on a resume-or the local six oclock news(local news agencies just love to get into this type of gobledy gook!) A bill for the headwork is all you need. Will

I don't think you are having a low oil pressure situation(well, maybe relative to spring pressure) but other =wise I think you are all over the problem-let us know what Vernon says! Will

I am waiting on a book from a consecutive low-vin Member... Money is put up, Interest is growing, weeding out the bookshelf for room underway(anything with Goertz Designed 240Z goes-is it wrong to dispose of incorrect information on ebay?). Will

Ever notice that even the Myth Busters do their automotive machinery tests on a runway or a track-controlled conditions-not subject to change conditions. How many people own the land bordering that road. How many of those people have a relative with your same attitude? Some one coming from the other direction with the same train of thought could be coming at you at the same speed-it is a public road after all-just where are you going to go by the time you two are together? Some things to think about... If two cars are traveling towards each other on a 2 mile stretch of road at the following speeds, they will pass each other(hopefully) in: 60mph one minute 80mph 45 seconds 100mph 36 seconds 120mph 30 seconds 140mph 25 seconds 160mph 22 seconds Time your foot changing pedals from and to the floored position. You will go somewhere between 117 and 400 feet in the time it takes to react(depending on your reaction time and speed). It takes a stock 240Z more than 420 feet to stop from 100mph. Even if you saw the other guy and hit your brakes immediately... your complete dry uncomplicated stop from 100mph is almost a quarter mile ahead of you. You may be that good of a driver with that good of a car, how well do you know the other guy and his equipment? This does not take into consideration the 4 wheeler or dirt bike that just tried to cross the street at 45mph perpendicular from behind the barn. Will

I think you have too much pressure building at the lifters-a blockage in the drain so to speak. Maybe the extrernal cam oiling pasages were the bleeds for the lifters, and now that they are blocked off, they are allowing pressure to build in the lifters, locking them open. I would get Vernon involved-it sounds like something that was blocked off needs to be opened back up-even if only partially. He knows what he did-he was there when he did it! Explain the problem to him, and let him give you a testing procedure-but dollars against donuts the problem is in the conversion... Will Will

If oil pressure holds the lifters open, how could the engine have compression? The answer is it could not-an open valve cannot contain! There is only a fluid force against a spring to make the valves follow-either the springs have a problem, or the fluid pressure is not being released-whether through mechanical interference within the valvetrain, or a simple hydraulic restriction(have you looked at how engine temperature fits in? Maybe some tolerance is off, and heat is closing an oil passage out of the valvetrain). Replacing the valves with the conventional setup will quickly get the car running, but it does not address what is causing the problem. It is like replacing the L series engine to fix a leaking head gasket! The lifters do not pump! They react to the oil pump! In switching the oil pump(assumimg both that you used are good) you should move on down the oil path-something has to be causing a restriction-and when you get on the correct side of it you will find high oil pressure. Did you replace the oil lines to the turbo-did you put a restrictor in the turbo oil line? (I have seen that there is a need for a restriction in flow through the bearings.) If you are that sure the hydraulics are the problem-don't sell them to someone else with out disclosing that you believe they are causing this issue. Get Raver involved-if they built it, they should stand behind it. Will

Before you open everything up and get all dirty-have you verified your oil pump, and used a good mechanical OP gage? Also what have you got sending extra oil to the turbo(maybe a check valve is in the wrong location.) Something is filling up and holding pressure from your comments-an oil accumulator perhapse...seems to me the problem is in the plumbing-not the valves. Will