duffymahoney

I finally got the correct fuel fitting from japan to finish my old school looking fuel rail. I love how it turned out! I had to have it re - zinc’d since the Mikuni and my plater color didn’t match.

The block is not what is getting used for the 3.5L builds that Rebello is doing. It's worth some money.

Ok, now onto my horns. I always hated how they look. Poor repray covering them. Interesting that the front of the horns looked to have been the dark green zinc. Then sometimes from the factory with some over spray. Same zinc as the seat sliders. ZedSaver does gold zinc. I am a little torn on what to do. Also how to take this fully apart to zinc? You can see in the blue z picture the green really showing through.

I believe this is installed correctly. Anyone?

Finally found some series 1 wheel chocks. I sent off for around 30 yellow powder samples. I decided on 02 VETTE YELLOW by Prismatic powders. It was close, just slightly brighter, I think when new this would have been almost identical. First picture was taken indoors under terrible lighting. This finishes off my series 1 tool kit.

Seems like someone is now selling plans to make one. Lol https://www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/diyvaporblasterbuildplans/

It’s designed to go one way. It holds the fuel filter in and has a inside flange.

Most people run the fuel just like you have it setup there. I just decided to go different.

You can see one L and 2 Ts on my carbs. One of the T’s has a called end. 1 L i have now is a left. I need a right facing one. They are a little harder to find.

I have stock style wire ones. I am waiting on a L fuel fitting from Japan. Then I swill swap them all out.

Starter circuit is done and working. I used the stock su cables. I think next is more zinc’d parts and rebuilding the horns

It's just a great color:)

200$ shipped. Nikki 2.4, 2.6 and 2.8 fuel pumps. Most of the parts are Nos. All internals are new. Only issue is the zinc on the hose barbs don’t perfectly match the screws. Base that attaches to the block and hose barbs are the only parts not NOS. PM me.

A few z builds I follow on instagram have them. They look pretty sweet. I hope they do OER/ Mikuni copies as well.

working on the tune. She is sounding good! A34048CD-4027-4177-88A4-AF31256D785B.MOV

Oil catch can is done (some ebay smaller aluminum one). Time to drive it! The goal was stock looking as possible, also no holes drilled. This is two pvc hoses spliced together with a 5/8 brass union, the pre- bends worked awesome and looks like I meant it to happen. Catch can has a nice little drain on the bottom.

Thank you. Honestly the paint job (70s respray )is $^!#. But makes me want to drive it more. I doubt I will ever repaint it. This company did the coating http://www.performancecoatings.com/

Thank you. I am trying to make whatever i do as nice as it can be done. By a hobbyist .The interia switch was actually the first hole I have drilled in my z. It worried me a little. I screwed up the the butterfly’s a little on the Mikuni’s. They are now all set pretty perfect. I can see a sliver of light when closed. The heat shield I bought doesn’t fit. Weirdly the carbs stay nice and cool. My header is ceramic coated. Maybe that’s enough? Also the header design keeps the pipes pretty far away from the carbs. Thoughts? Anyone? Next goals. Next is taking the starter apart and zinc, vapor blast and paint it. Re zinc the horns, they have over spray on them. Pull oil pan, powder coat and re zinc all the bolts

Some pictures of the fuel pump install.

So my 3 best mikuni 44's didn't have the same patina, these had been rebuilt by a legend. I made the decision to try and take them 95% apart myself, vapor blast and put them back together. Honestly most of the process made perfect sense. I am pretty detail oriented, so I just took my time and took lots of pictures. The throttle shafts and pins are the hardest part. So far the only thing I think i screwed up is one of the butterfly valves isn't seated 100%. I am going to take each carb off and double check no light passes by when closed. I am getting a high idle, which I believe is from that. I installed a nismo fuel pump with my 73 bracket, bolted right in. Hoses were easy to install. I installed a inertia switch/ rollover switch for the electric fuel pump (factory used a oil pressure switch). Since I have it attached to the stock spot on the ignition. Also a 14amp fuse. Looks factory. I wanted to use the stock fuel rail, I like the way it looks. I also re- zinc'd a bunch of smalls for the intake and carbs. So far I am very happy with how they sound. Now time to sell my z therapy carbs. Don't judge the fuel fitting. The correct one is on order.

That's a much nicer cabinet. Mine is a pile of junk:)

I got a new gun/ nozzle system. I accidentally bought two so if anyone wants one let me know. Hose is now 3/4 for the slurry pump, air is 5/8. So much much bigger. Hopefully moves a lot more slurry. Also the nozzle tip can be changed out. It can be 4,5,6,8,10, 12 and 14mm. I found the nozzle by doing some youtube stalking of vapor honing stuff. I kind of feel bad about it.

Message me, I have a new check valves and diaphragm for your fuel pump.

It’s mostly submerged. The pump is a little tall for my cabinet. Manufacture claims the trash pump can handle just about anything. Also I know that this is the same pump the pro cabinets use. If I was to do this a lot I would just buy a vapor honing system. They are nicely made and take the guesswork out. I think stainless cabinet would be much nicer.

My gun has a max 3/8 fitting. So I have 3/8 hose from the gun to the pump. The pump has a 2" to a 3/4" NPT adapter. Then a 3/4 NPT to 3/8th hose barb. Then air, lots of air. I run like 120 psi through my hose.