Ed

Bill, the rotors are from a 300zx and the calipers are from a Toyota.

C'mon Bill, don't tell me you got suckered too?

You say the car has been sitting for 15 years, and that your on a budget. First you need to get the car running properly. Change all fluids, replace the bad hoses, brakes, battery, etc.. the price tag will soon deplete your budget. Once you get her running then you can start modifying. Brakes, it's nice to go fast but how about stopping? All those rubber bushings underneath are 30 years old. You've gotta be able to take that corner right? How about new shocks? You see how stuff adds up. Engine wise, when you get the L24 running you can start by modifying it. Carbs, cam, exhaust, head and ignition. All of these items can be transfered over to a L28 bored out or not.

280Z, Good one. I think you had a few of them scratching their head.

Thought I would bring this one back to the top. Bid is up to $4750.00! Not bad if you ask me. That's 4250 profit! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2486548444&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

Hey, good job. Thats some good old fashioned engineering. If it pops off again give me a PM. I've got a horn pad sitting around gathering dust.

No problem, I wish I could have posted them myself (hint, hint). Good luck on your conversion.

Check your mail in a few. I went solid. As you will see by the pics they are not on the car yet. soon..........

You can use the stock brake lines. Bend them by hand very carefully. I would upload a picture but for some reason I can't. I can email you a couple of pictures of mine if you want.

The short end of the spring goes to the tab on the body. The long end of the spring goes in a little hole where the center pin attaches to the equilizer. The hole is small and right next to the pin on the back side.

I thought about making something similar for my restoration. The problem is how do you lift it to the 90 degree angle. You need about 4 bodybuilders or a crane.

I would think that unless the internal balance is way off you wouldn't really notice any vibration. I think you might have a problem getting a consistent spark. Try this, rev the engine until you experience the vibration, hold it there. Then pull a spark plug wire off the plug. Do this one at a time. Each time you disconnect a wire you will notice a difference in the way the engine runs. Do this to all six until you find one that doesn't make a difference. Good luck.

I think your going to get pretty close to the water jacket. Unless you do most of the porting within the last 1/2 inch or so.

Bill, you know that they were talking about you.

O.k. kids, back to the original topic. Someone placed a bid for the car that is not the car. :stupid:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2486601602&category=6187

That rear bumper looks like it's out ten inches farther than it's supposed to be. Maybe 10 mph bumpers??

I'll definately have to check the cc's on my head. Felpro offers a .020 shim that you can use with their head gasket. I'm also planning on running a mild cam. Not stock. Would this mean that I could run higher compression with a bigger cam?

I think you answered the question yourself. I don't know a whole lot about the different materials available in pads. The more expensive pads use better materials to be able to tolerate the heat, thus preventing brake fade. You should replace your pads before you hit the track, or atleast inspect them to make sure they will last. You don't want to chew-up a rotor.

Which carbs do you have? It does sound like a fuel delivery problem. Maybe your floats need to be adjusted.

Ouch, looks bad. When I started to take mine apart last year I found a little bit of rust in the same area. Nothing through the metal though.

Interesting, I'm starting to wonder if my engine is going to have too much compression. It's a F54 block with the flattops. N42 head shaved .040. I don't want to be dependent on non-pump fuel.

Have you checked with Victoria British?

You should be fine with stock semi-metallic pads. Don't get the lifetime pads because they have larger quantities of metal in the pads and will wear out your rotors.

Hopefully you didn't ruin your new pulley by hammering on it. It should have slid on the crankshaft without much effort. It could have been crooked and when you started to hammer on it you could have gouged either the shaft, key or the pulley. Take it back off and inspect for dammage. Next remove the key and clean everything with some emerycloth (200 grit). Trial fit the pulley. Like I said earlier it should go on without much effort. Make sure it's not binding on the key. If it goes on then take it back off and coat the shaft with some anti-sieze. Assemble and torque your the bolt to spec. If the pulley still won't go on then you will have to take it all to a machine shop where they can measure the crankshaft and bore out the pulley.

We've all heard that the higher the compression in an engine the more HP you will have. I was wondering how this works. And also what is too high for a street car?