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Also work from centre outward alternating towards back then towards front like the service manual shows.

Start at 40 and work up if you are not sure.

I agree.. who knows.... for only 30k there has been a lot of things lost or poorly replaced.

My buddy sent me a pic of the radio he bought on Ebay. It is for his 280z but the back seems to have a 5 pin DIN, an two Molex type connections (3 pin and 6pin) Has anyone seen this before and have suggestions on pin outs? Thanks!

Real on right (Thanks @kats) Left is badly painted or fake; too much chrome showing.

Most do not do this. Perhaps dealerships did this back in the day. If you remove the head then some re-torques after re-installing would be good to do. Perhaps after 100mi and 1000mi

Possibilities: https://www.busdepot.com/321819059 http://dynacorndepot.com/heater-box-clip-65-68-m3516a-mustang-65-68 https://www.gowesty.com/product/fresh-air-heating/20064/clip-heater-box

E tube changes do not make a big differences except for the diameter of the tube. If you have F2 tubes then that would be very rich. F11, F16 are typical and should be fine for initial tuning. Jet sizes and fuel depth would be the first things to check. Also mechanical linkage is Very important. The throttle plates should all be closed as much as possible at idle before you attach the mechanical push rod ends. One tuning tip to ensure the linkage is right is to pull each plug one at a time and measure how much the idle drops.... you can quickly find out if one carb is working more than the others due to the mechanical linkage incorrectly opening the plates on that carb too much. This should be done at idle and off idle to cover the bases.

It will be stamped on the sides: 0.40mm idle jet 1.10mm main jet

For stock 240z to 260z, here are approximate fueling need sizes: Idle Jets are typically 45 to 55 (fuel hole in bottom is 0.45 to 0.55mm) Main Jets are typically 115 to 125 (fuel hole in bottom is 1.15 to 1.25mm)

Check fuel levels. - Remove one main jet assembly in each carb. - Measure distance from top of fuel to the bridge where the main jet screws in. At 23mm, the fuel will pour into the carb throat.... not good. At 25mm down, the fuel will slosh into carb throat on bumps and such 29mm down is recommended. 31 to 27mm is a range for tuning.

Why would someone replace lines and not re-use the original fasteners? Worm drive clamps drive me crazy.

It is more of: 30k and all these things had to be replaced?

I would use a rubber sheet material rather than foam to be safe.

Brake Booster and master cylinder were also replaced.

The very bright yellow paint on the rear suspension/differential mount hardware stops discontinuously at the adjacent black structural members so they were re-painted. The bolts and washers also have misaligned paint so work was done. The oil pressure sensor was also changed. The hub caps look like the Chinese fakes.

Remember the vans with carpet on the dashes

We had one of these and a Sheep Dog in the early 70's. "Barney" would start in the front seat and chase occasional objects to the back when passing. It had a rear window that opened and 3rd row seats in the very back that faced the back. We used to tie fishing line to GI Joes and drag them along the highway.

LOL....I do have opinions based on "Follow the money" data that point the the USA market for some business, safety, and technical decisions but without being in the shoes of the folks in Japan in the 60's, they are just opinions. They also varies with the components i.e. chassis, engine, suspension, etc.

The water rinsing removes/dilutes the acid. Using baking soda is a belts and braces if you just use muriatic. If I were to do it now, I would do: 1. Chain/ vibration to remove surface rust 2. Muriatic Soak 3. Rinse with water 3. Phosphoric 4. Rinse 5. Hot air dry 6. Sealer

Thanks for clarifying 🙂

Weird Alan? What exactly are you saying? I never denied anything? The path from Merc to Nissan is a muddy trail but it IS a trail.

You can't have New Order,,,,, but you can have this:

I cheated with the die.... pretty easy job. I had to use the tail stock to align the thread cutter.... starting into SS is tough. I was able to set the depth of cut and speed so that the SS peeled off in one long twisted chip.... fun to be had! This is the first step towards making something exciting for triple carb owners 🙂