Ninjaneer11

I'm not sure. I saw that Z Car Depot recently started selling something similar though. Not as fancy as the float sync, but should do the same job. I bought some fittings that do essentially the same thing as this Z Car Depot product. https://zcardepot.com/collections/240z/products/su-carburetor-float-fuel-level-setting-tool-240z

Glad to hear you made it home and the radiator didn't become a bigger problem. Glad we got to connect last week! Planning to get the cooling sorted so you can drive it to Pheonix next year? It's only like 2,500 miles haha.

Glad you came to ZCON and gave me some inspiration on my future engine! I got a pic of our cars together and one of yours at the show Saturday. Hope to see you again at a future event!

I can’t believe you chose this frivolous job over installing that fancy hatch vent you recently acquired 😁. Can’t wait to check at your car at the show tomorrow.

I have one of these I'd be happy to donate. It's a little bowed in the middle, but still has the pins. I'll be in Nashville next week and will bring it along in case you still need one. Good luck on your drive!

I just went through the same hatch issue during my resto. Mine was also only an issue on the driver side. My body guy ended up bending inner edge of the hatch (the part that the seal goes on) to get the hatch to close flush. May not be the 'proper' way to do it, but it fits right and doesn't leak so I'm happy. I'm using an aftermarket seal.

I went through a few sets of needles after I installed an AFR gauge in my Z and got a better idea of what was needed. I didn't get too scientific with it, other than making general observations at idle and different throttle positions like you have then looking for a needle profile that was bigger or smaller where adjustment was needed. I'm running a mildly built L28 with SUs. I started with SM needles, which I had to run super rich at idle to get decent AFR everywhere else. I tried SB needles also, but settled on RH needles as the best range for my engine. This is a great website to compare needle sizes https://www.classicminidiy.com/technical/needles. I never found a good source for needles in the states and ordered mine from https://www.sumidel.com/ out of Australia. The conversion rate was decent a few years ago when I ordered, so the price wasn't as bad as their site appears. Good luck!

I have not, but was a member of that group for a while. Looked like a scam to me. Nice looking parts for too good to be true prices. The admins are the only people that post on the group too. They also have several posts from people claiming how good of an experience it was to buy from the admins, but all those posts look strangly similar. I wouldn't risk my money on it.

I had mine rebuilt through rockauto. You send it off to Cardone in TX. It only took a couple weeks for me and it works great now. It came back in primer grey, so I painted it before installing. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=258880&cc=1209158&pt=1884&jsn=834

I had first-hand experience of chain tensioner parts finding their way to the oil pan. Found this in my L20b when I took it apart to rebuild a couple years ago. Not certain if that's what you are looking at, but yours look much smaller and hopefully didn't do as much damage on their journey between the front cover and oil pan if so.

I think I have two issues going on here. I replaced the master cylinder last night and the pedal stays firm now, so I believe the old one was bad. I still get the air noise when pressing the pedal though. I replaced the booster hose to be double sure that wasn't the issue. This time I do feel some air coming out around where the hose connects to the booster when the pedal is pressed. It's in a specific spot that I might have missed before. I believe the issue is on or around the push-on fitting on the booster. The new hose fits very snug and has a clamp on it, so I'm confident it's not the hose. I can't see or feel anything well enough to determine exactly where the leak is though. I'm going to have to take the booster off the car to get a better look. I checked the FSM and It doesn't look like there are any seals or gaskets around that fitting that could be replaced even if rebuilt though. Does anyone know if this piece is press fit in or how it might need 'resealed'.

Thanks for the info Seppi72! I have a zx master cylinder which works well with the bigger brakes. I ordered a replacement that I will replace this weekend. If that doesn't solve my issue I'll be sending off the booster to get rebuilt.

Thanks Zed Head. The calipers are mounted with the bleed screws up. The setup I have makes it impossible to mount them on the wrong side since the hardline from the caliper is fixed to the strut tube. I'll try bleeding the MC again tonight and if that doesn't work I'll start by just replacing the MC since they are readily available. If that doesn't fix it, I'll do it all again after getting the booster rebuilt. I'm going to be so good at bleeding brakes when this is done.

Good to know. I can't feel any air movement. I checked around the booster, MC, and vacuum hose. I used a piece of empty tubing up to my ear to see if I could pinpoint where the sound was coming from too. It seems loudest inside the booster, under the MC.

I just tried this. No change to rpm no matter what I do to the brake petal. This was in the garage starting it with the choke engaged, not sure if that matters or not.