drunkenmaster

Well, it is a thermal insulator. I would have used the OEM style rubber backed matting for padding, like in the 300zx etc. Personally after spending so much time removing the factory adhesive matting, I am not keen on glueing anything unnessary down to the car again. Just to elaborate I attached a photo of the roof flashing I was talking about. For all intents and purposes it appears to be identical to most big names such as some models of dynamat and brown bread.

Logically the foil side will face the heat source to reflect the radiant heat, but this means putting it underneath the car, not inside. You would also have to be confident in the adhesive you use will not melt and let the insulation come loose. Alternatively you can put it in the inside foil side up, it may stop some of the heat reacing the cabine but the floor pan itself will get just as hot. Locally we often buy "flastac" or home roof flashing from hardware stores to use as a sound deadener. It also has a foil side as well, then bitumen with an adhesive backing. Very easy to use as the adhesive is already there.

Those tilting attachemnts for the hoist are great, but locally they are quite expensive. The way i did it was to use a screwdriver in the loops of the chain to adjust how far the chain will slip though the hook, determining the angle of the motor.

New Zealand. I may bring one over so we can work something out if you are serious, I am still exploring local options. I never did get to see the photos of your sump from a while ago.

After seeing those photos the guy who built my engine wants to build the sump for me, pictured below. What do you guys think.

Guys, I need an experienced opinion on this sump for my conversion, it looks a bit rough to me but then again, I am hardly experienced in the ways of the sump. Thanks

I have some pics on my website of the L28E eqipped 260Z i used to own if this is of any help: http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zdonorengine.html The 280zx I used to own also had a stick throttle on occasion and the cure was lubing up the "ball and knuckle" joints of the throttle linkages real good.

cross member is redrilled to reduce bump steer. I dont think any decent brake kit would give you much change from $3k alone.

there are 2 manuals, user manual and installation manual. But like I said before, one will go to the battery and one will go to and acc. powered line. More than likely the fused one will go to the battery, and like i said also, if you put them both to 12V the unit WILL work for testing purposes.

Brakes, rotors, and coilovers full assembled on shortened struts with redrilled crossmember is around the $6k I beleive from the retailer. I bought mine 2nd hand but unused.

I have heard its best to use rubber in the rear. Urethane in the front is nice for the steering?

my suspension was orginally from speed-technology in Melbourne. Add a .com or .com.au to their name for a website. The suspension and brake package is really good but it doesnt come cheap at all.

Im pretty sure yellow should go to your battery for permanent power while the red one should go to accessories power, which is only high when the key is turn past acc. It could be the other way around, my mind is a blank at the moment. Either way you could connect them both to 12V for testing purposes to see if the deck turns on, the only downfall of leaving it like this is the deck could be left unning while the car is off leaving one flat battery.

Engine mounts and gearbox mount will have to be custom made with your main concern being just not to hit anything i.e the bonnet As far as lining up goes all report i have heard and seen say that in true nissan style it all lines up perfectly. I plan to upsize my brake master cylnder, cant remember the size as i am not good with feet and inches but does 15/16" sound right? I think its from a 280zx?

my RB30DET motor including shipping pallet weighed in at around 220-230kg from memory so approx. 500lbs. What does an L28E weigh?

The RB family use twin cam crossflow heads, unlike the L series family they replaced. They are a newer motor, make big power very easy, have very tough standard internals, and are more drivable and fuel economical than the L series. Check this out: http://www.fullboost.com.au/cars/readerscars/sinisha240z.html 355HP AT the wheels. Not that the L series doesnt have attractions of its own, but they are more taste/personality traits rather than on paper figures.

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.private_vehicle?vehicle_id=102629&current_rec=1&total_rec=2&sort_type=&make_id=37&model_id=1009&state_id=-1&search_distance=25 Vehicle 1979 DATSUN 280ZX Price $15,000 Kilometres 130,000 Body 2 door Coupe Colour Ferrari Yellow Transmission 3 speed Automatic Engine 6 cylinder Petrol Multi-point injected 2800L (2753cc) Reg Plate AIR280 Reg Expiry DEC-2004 RWC No Brief Comments Unique oportunity to purchase a trully unique modified vehicle that can be finished to you taste. Long Comments ""UNFINISHED PROJECT""--But registered and very drivable! ''All the hard work is already DONE'' The below details some of this vehicles current features. I have recently placed this car back on the road and plan to gradually add things to it so its features will increase as time goes by. I will change the price of the vehicle depending on the amount I continue to spend. I need to sell this car as I am in a financial squeeze. This is a great opportunity for someone to purchase a vehicle that has all the hard work already done so that you can finish it with your personal touch! Result of a 7 year project where the car has Been in my possession and of the road for over 6 years. Recently re-registered in December and I am the third owner. Personally designed body modifications (only one like it in the world) spent over $8000 in modifying bodywork, done by professionals with Aluminium and fibreglass. Body work along with the rest of the vehicle has Engineer's approved certificate so you will never have problems with the police. Sprayed 2 PAC Ferrari Yellow, NEW Dual 3.5 inch Exhaust system fitted with Extractors, Engine is mostly original and works perfectly. Interior has NEW leather Honda S2000 bucket seats, NEW Momo Steering Wheel, NEW Pioneer MP3 WMA CD player, NEW C-locking with remote, NEW Alarm system with multiple kill switches + other security features, NEW Carpet, NEW Leather trimming, plus many extrassss------------------ Seller Details Name Silvio Location Stanmore, New South Wales. 2048 Mobile Phone 0414977313 Vehicle Features (please confirm with seller) 4 Wheel Disc Brakes Air Conditioning Alarm Alloy Wheels Body Kit Cd Player Central Locking Electric Mirrors Fuel Injection Independent Rear Suspension Leather Trim Power Steering Power Windows Rear Spoiler Remote Boot/Hatch Release Remote Central Locking Tinted Windows

Hi, Photos on your website would be great. I am a little behind you in my swap. I have my 260Z body ready to go and I have a freshly rebuilt RB30DET waiting to go in. I have bought some engine mounts that will supposedly do the trick but time will tell, I am also looks at a sump so to see yours would be good. I assume you are using the RB20DET g/box, how did you go with the g/box cross member? You mentioned the standard one lined up but it sounds too easy? Once I get my garage setup a bit more I will take some more photos and have a website running too. James

Geez Ash, very sorry to see that. What are you options now? Is you brothers car on the cards or are you going to strip the parts and start on a new base or the unthinkable? I was going to give you a ring on the weekend as I was carting engines around etc in my new ute and was going to drop by but lucky I didnt interrupt you in your time of "mourning"

I had to restrain myself. I am looking in the trading post this week for a large roller door to complete my newly concreted garage (read: a lot of work). I thought it was best to leave it covered in the off chance of and horizontal flying rain shooting in

She's home at last, the motor that is.

Well many of the locals have seen my car on the rotisserie at zworx and more have seen photos. Going cheap is not something I have done on this car At the same time if you are not after a "perfect" car as even the best of them wont be, I dont see anything wrong with just welding a new sheet over the sill after cutting out the rust with a grinder. It is still a sill and not exactly rocket science with no moving parts but if, as in my case, you are worried about rust returning and ruining your nice new glasurit paint job, then yes, properly may be better

Cam, I should have mentioned this the other weekend. On one of my other Zeds I was getting the sills welded up at a panel beater near Zworx and it was only going to be just over $100 a side. they are a bit further down boundary rd and called I&S bodyworks or soemthing like that. This would be a single sheet replacement however, Rob was showing me something about the 3 layers he contends with in his repairs. James

**SOLD**

You ain't seen nothing yet... I'll let a sneak peek out of the bag courtesy of glasurit and porsche: