Dave WM

that is exactly why I popped for the bolt buster induction heater. With out that I would try welding a nut on with a mig welder, that should get it hot enough break the corrosion bond. I am going to be fighting a broken bolt (front bolt that holds the FI metal hard lines in place) that happened before the bolt buster. Got a mig welder now so will try it out.

so I guess the only function of the duct is to provide vent air back to the passenger side vent opening (the one that is manually operated by the pull handle).

that's what mine looks like my 75 CA model as well. does yours have AC?

seems like they where lots of changes, mine is ac car but who knows if it started out that way. I do have a single vent operated by the pull lever on the passenger side, I don't think there is room for one on the FI cars on the driver side. From the FSM it looks like the AC could have been a dealer installed option since they go thru great detail on how to install one. Or maybe in 75 (my year) they were all shipped from Japan with out the air and the only way to get it was thru the dealer install? there were also changes on the finisher covers under the dash, mine does not have it, but does have added vents from the heater IIRC the finishers on the later years would cover these up. The HVAC seemed to be evolving a lot in the 260-280 series.

does yours also have a plastic plenum that connects from the rad support (where the snorkel terminates) and then back to the inside of the fender? (looks like a fresh air supply for the inside vent but not sure about that). If I were to hook up my snorkel it looks like it would pull air from inside the front passenger side fender. I scoped inside there once and it just opens up do dead air, not a supply all the way back to the vent.

I just replaced the o rings and oil in my standard shocks, new OE rubber everywhere else. For daily round the town driving I think that is the better way to go. If the shocks have already been replaced with cartridges then you have no choice but to replaced them if they are bad. I would leave the springs stock unless they are damaged if you want a comfortable ride, most of what I have read would point to a rougher ride (is rough enough IMHO stock). I don't have them but have read lots of peeps unhappy with urethane as far as noise and road feel for a daily driver. Same goes for mustache bar mounts, the OE provide better noise abatement from diff whine again only from what I have read. So while I will defer to others on after market suspension parts, I will say that my completely stock setup drives very well for daily driving, and since you mentioned that I thought I would chime in on leaving it OE.

don't let the sealant setup apply sparingly where the FSM shows it and reassemble immediately. The FSM does not mention this (IIRC) but the how to rebuild you Nissan book does. The book notes that you don't want the sealant to impede the bottoming out of the bearing journal at all.

there is a tool sold at hobby shops, Z bender, a decent place would be happy to help you with it. Before the Z I was into RC models a lot and purchased one. The alternate method is to make 90 then another 90 and twist 90.

I imagine a good stiff piece of music wire (RC hobby shops) would have that, just take it to them and see what they have. Just needs a coupls "z" bends on the ends (after threading the wire thru the sheath.

get anything done Jeff :)

Thanks Av8!

I resolved a leak, it was obvious from the side seal. You could see it in the attached pic. I used the after market kind and applied sealant as the FSM directed. This was after replacing the pan gasket and the rear main and still having a leak that looks like the pan gasket back at the rear of the pan. bone dry since replacing the side seal.

Good for you to tackle that job, and congrats on the baby, if she is your 1st welcome to the roller coaster of parent hood. They grow very fast out of the stage, so enjoy while you can. I would suggest you get a good quality welder, think of it as a long term investment, be prepared to spend 1k min. I got a cheap o from HF to weld up some exhaust pipe. Should have spent the money for a 120/240 with more controls on current. I got the 240 which is a pain to power up, I would think that the 120 option should be fine for thin sheet metal. Also buy a big cylinder of shield gas, don't be tempted to try using flux rod, makes a big mess. As a novice I think the best possible equipment will make the experience less pain, and also get some scrap body parts to practice on.

looks like a lot of tire for manual steering and a stock motor.

Happens every day, you have to watch and notice things like this happening. If I cant see the cars in front of the car I am behind, I adjust my distance to allow for exactly this situation (I should add that dumb humans are guilty of tail gating behind big trucks, no way they can see what ahead of them, just playing the odds with a life and death consequence, incredible stupidity). Just today there was all kinds of chaos on the road from big truck dropping shite, to earth moving equipment swinging big buckets around with workers on the side trying to warn drivers. All this goes into a thinking alert human brain and is processed against past experience to adapt to constantly changing situations. I don't really get why someone would want the current tech anyway, you have to stay constantly engaged according to the car maker then whats the point other than massive testing at your own expense. I still see tv commercials running where dumbfounded drivers are relieved that the car stops its self while they are looking around at bill boards, imagining cars made out of cardboard food boxes, and never do they show the 99% of the real distraction... wait for it... texting while driving. Why not just have for once an honest commercial showing the real reason for having this, so you can play with your phone and hope the car will save your arse.

yea the humidity is still going to be a problem. I have a car parked out in one of those HF portable garages, keeps the leaves off, and the UV damage away but it gets VERY hot inside. I can see how moving air would help with the heat, but maybe the hot may actually be better, I doubt any water can condense out considering how hot it gets. Too bad there is not a cheap way to dry the air that gets pumped in.

Will do. I had hoped to do this a bit earlier this year, its going to be no fun in the garage with 90+ heat and 90% humidity we have this time of the year.

I ended up buy from deal Nissan OE, but perhaps the same thing as the sealed power ones, I wonder if Nissan just re brands those.

geez I hope not. I got 12 coming all the same.

little set back. I did some more research and decided I need 13207-81W00 seals not the 13207-2B500. Not sure how I got the 2B500 as a sub, perhaps they would work but may as well get the right OE part. On order from local Nissan dealer.

I recent discovered that the titled grommet/Bellows has a rip in it. was looking for a replacement. Talked to Steve (NIX240 IIRC) about the one he has for a 240z, we measured and determined that it was not the correct size. Same goes for the power antenna pad grommet that I am also on the hunt for. I am trying to make sure to keep the water out from that area, seems like both those are crucial. For now I have used some butyl rubber sealant around the pad but would prefer a better cleaner solution. Any leads on these parts?

tough era to live thru...

unbolt the mount for the gas strut. single nut on the back.

roger on covering around the timing chain, I will most likely drape the entire engine area just to make sure I don't end up dropping a keep down around the manifold area as well. So the Rope is a tried and tested method, perhaps I will go that way, I can see how its pretty much fool proof.

My car burns what I think is too much oil, about 1Q every 500 or so miles. I notice some smoke when starting up but quickly clears up. I do a LOT of short trips, low speed stuff, which I have read may cause issues for an engine that likes to rev like the L series. There are no external leaks and no internal (crank case oil looks good, no milky looking stuff at all, no oil film in rad). I did replace the PCV valve on the assumption that if it was clogged crankcase pressure could rise and cause problems. The compression looks good (160-165 on all with a cold engine) but I know that only means the compression rings are ok and could still be stuck or broken oil control rings. So I figure its got to be rings or valve stem seals(at least from what I can tell, could be all the time since I am the only one driving it, so kinda hard to check while on the road), I am hoping its just the stem seals. The plugs look fine but for some black build up on the threaded ends (the insulator looks normal, very light tan) but not oil fouled looking at all. I am guessing that the 500 mile burning of 1qt is not excessive enough to really mess up the plugs. I got the KD tool that compresses the springs on the head, a seal puller plier that grips the seal and bought some Nissan seals PN 13207-2B500, interesting they are made in USA, expected Japan. The plan is to remove all plugs, use compressed air to hold valves up (have a leak down tester) do one valve at a time after setting piston to TDC on combustion stroke. Will put the car in gear with brake on to avoid the engine possibly turning over from the compressed air. One at a time to avoid mixing up rockers/pads/springs. The seals have a brown rubber seal and a metal shell on the body. I don't know if they are the same as the orig, a PN that is NLA but they were listed as a sub. Further reading on the subject suggest NOT using assy lube but rather just reg engine oil and a install tool that slips over the stem to get the seal past the keep notches. I plan to get some heat shrink for that tool. I found a video showing the process that was very helpful, only thing I plan to do different is using the compressed air vs shoving a rope tightly into the spark plug hole. I hope to find seals that are less than perfect but will not know until I get in there, anyway seems like 43years is certainly long enough to warrant replacement of a rubber part anyway. Any tips/warnings are welcome.