Dave WM

that is exactly what my gas tank renu franchise guy did, cut hole in top of tank, remove filter.

I have a donor dash I pulled from a junker, that way I can see exactly how the dash attaches to the metal frame BEFORE pulling my cars dash. I hate down time and hope that will speed things up when I go to install it. The donor dash was supposed to be my practice for refurbing a dash, but clearly this new dash should be a much better option to trying to restore and old one.

you should take a look at the shunt and make sure its installed properly.

Anyone else order the 280z dash? Hope so see it soon ordered 5 weeks ago, think it was 6-8 weeks for delivery IIRC. When I get it will take some pics, maybe do an install video. My OE dash is in pretty good shape just one big crack near the center starting from behind the clock nacelle, but the new dash was too hard to pass on.

gonna have to tighten up the coverage in the secondary against C. Looked a little unfocused after the 1st Q but of course so much talent did not matter. I thought N was going to blow a gasket on that series where they had 3 penalties and had to settle for a FG. T looked good buy seemed a bit reserved when asked about the ankle. J looked good. Got kinda chippy. Roll Tide! I am hoping UCF puts it on LSU. Feel so bad about MM hope the best for him.

I was thinking AC also, perhaps as added if a 134a conversion was done.

PM sent

did the problem exist before the rebuild? Have you gone thru the FSM on EFI section? In the EFI section have you verified fuel pressure? Fuel volume? does the AFM vane move freely? How do the new spark plugs look? (rich/lean/normal). I don't think there is a rev limiter, Not sure what that is like. I assume under load the engine will not go over 3k, I would presume that is a fuel issue, unless there is something wrong with the distributer and or Spark module, but I don't see how that would be effected by engine load.

My very 1st welding exp with was with a HF welder (140amp iirc) with flux wire, trying to weld up a round pipe (cat back pipe needed extension) what a nightmare, I must have spent 6 hrs of welding and grinding. I now have a flow meter and plan to run gas to do some more practice.

I think a LD28 equipped Z would be fun. Seen a few on youtube.

agree with the steering wheel, I notice it seemed lighter with the 240 style. I attributed it to my tendency to turn by grabbing the spokes on the foam wheel (not wanted to damage the fragile foam covering). This is on a 75 280z

have you confirmed the water temp sensor resistance at the 36 pin connector. also the TPS again a the 36 pin connector. also the air temp sensor same deal at the 36 pin connector. The AAR is pretty easy to check, so you should have cleared that by now.

AC hoses

indeed, the self contained approach is less invasive to wiring. Very good point. Now if you can figure out a way to install an idiot light that comes on when people text while driving you should try out for "shark tank", not for them mind you as idiot is a forgone conclusion. Something that mounts on the roof for the rest of us.

a couple low tech solutions, a N.O. heat activated switch like the one I used for my EGR, could even just build it into an existing water temp switch housing (same housing two switches) that would cover the temp gauge, then maybe use a later style oil pressure switch, the one with a built in switch for the fuel pump to activate a light instead of the fuel pump. would have to invert the output but that would not be hard.

lol to the Muntz reference !

pg 35 fan control setting "4" is for emergency air... I guess the implication is you should not run it in that position for extended periods. perhaps the fuse getting hot was an issue even back then.

more fun, page 98 front end shimmy, lol no kidding even when new. IIRC our 74 260 shimmy was fixed by getting rid of the turbine mags and going with stock steel rims. Always fun to read old owner manuals to see what the issues were back when new.

recently down loaded pdf of a 1975 on this site. Page 14 Thanks 2377kN!

there is a mention in the owners manual about a low oil pressure light? this is addition to the oil pressure gauge. I never saw a provision for a light like that in my 75.

well that pretty much means its got to be the FPR. Should be interesting to confirm with the air compressor test. I don't think that kink could possibly be the issue.

does the AFM have the rubber plug still in it. the plug that covers the idle bypass air?

I will get some pics later to better illustrate what I am dealing with.

this looks like a promising site. https://www.rotorclip.com/cat_pdfs/dti.pdf

oops, forgot this was a junk yard find, don't recall the year. but its not staked, had the press in retainers. Would like to know where those could be found too, just in case the inside C clip types don't work out. the retainer look something like this