Dave WM

induction heater tool, great for this stuff. expensive but beats the heck out of having to drill out.

wow the hits keep on coming. if you decide to remove them and they resist go with heating them, bummer to break one. I Cant see it but is the 1st under the T stat housing still there, that one often breaks. Personally I would pop for some reg OE types if the threads are not buggered up. I also like the kind sold at the auto parts stores, they have a hex head that lets you tighten up with out double nutting or special tools.

agreed, not to use sealer, and if you did not as much as you have. I removed a OE style head gasket (the kind you have shown) recently and there was NO evidence of gasket sealer. The only time I found in my research about using sealers had to do with solid metal (copper) single layer types and with them there was discussion about a light application of a spray on sealer. That being said I have fought my own battles with exhaust gases getting into the rad, so take my advise for what its worth. I installed a felpro dry per instructions. Failed the chem test for CO in the rad, but eventually resolved on its own, I have no idea why.

warm oil that looks normal for idle. If you want to know for sure just get a reg oil pressure gauge. Do some research on the thread type, its not normally found on the gauge you are likely to find. Cold oil at idle should be in about the middle of the gauge. do you know what T stat you have installed? You can also just use a meat thermometer in the neck of the rad, cap off, let it warm up and see what it says.

oops right CO. That single lead sensor kinda looks like a switch for a cooling fan.

I don't understand that bullet connector. You need better pictures of what is going on.

I think it was sealed with compound from the omega molecule.

the green thing is the "water temp sensor" often mentioned as the CTS, it for the EFI, the single bullet connector item is the "thermal transmitter", its for the gauge in the dash, nothing to do with the EFI. I am using the descriptions from the FSM. The "water temp switch" is a NC switch that opens at about 160f has different functions, on my 75 it controls the EGR activation (EGR not active until the motor warms up). On others it changes distributor timing of the spark module. Perhaps use other places but NOT part of the EFI. You did not picture it but its got TWO leads that come out of it (the only device that has leads) that are terminated with bullet connectors. there is also a "thermo time switch" This one is both a heater and switch. the switch only closes at temps generally less than about 65f, and when active will only stay closed for about 9 seconds regardless of temps (the internal heater prevents it from staying closed too long). Its function is to add enrichment of fuel for cold starting. Not tied into the ECU its operated solely by the ignition switch. It is the largest of the sensor, mounts on the front of the housing. The sub harness for connecting the CTS and the Thermotime are color coded, but can be interchanged. IF they are not connected properly the EFI will not work as designed. Its important to make sure those two are connected to the right sub harness and that the sub harness bullet leads are connected to the main harness correctly as well. The sub harness has color coded tape near the bullet leads that match the main harness color coded tape. the ends of the harness that plug into the sensors have slightly different colors, perhaps they were more pronounced when new but they are different. I presume they matched with the plastic color of the OE sensors.

I would tap it, and use a something like a set screw with some red Loctite.

yikes... geez Louise, does it ever end :(

I was playing with seals last night, after removing the valve (practicing using my valve spring depressor) I put some heat shrink on the end to cover the retaining slot, heated it up to form a nice seal installation tool to prevent nicking the seal when replacing. They sometimes come with those little candy stripe straws, I think the heat shrink works better, thinner, tighter fit and the shoulder created by the shrinking worked well. Some interesting reading on the subject of seals, somewhere I read to NOT use assy lube just coat the valve stems with the oil you normally use. something about the assy lube gumming up. Seems unlikely it could be an issue but, for what its worth I read it. compared the old seal to new Nissan OE, the old one had a noticeable larger hole that the stem fits into . It was somewhat stiffer than the OE seal as well, but still not what I would call too stiff. I was surprised to find is still pliable at all considering 43 years old.

JB weld?

how do folks store complete heads? I have my spare N42 complete (valves/cam) with the valve cover on and a 2X6 on the bottom tied together with some strapping. I positioned the camshaft to a point where only 2 valves were opened. On those two I removed the rocker/lash pad, tagged and bagged them, left them inside under the valve cover, then return the camshaft to the point where no valves were opened before strapping the 2X6 to the bottom.

if it was mine I would just look into new copper and make some new lines. Enemy of AC is any kind of crap in the system. Get some new flares and use that pancake filter.

you can prob find an universal in line filter to replace that with. You may want to make up some new copper lines as well, those look pretty cruddy. Four Seasons - 34506 - Pancake In-Line Filter w/o Desiccant for Liquid Line Not sure if that would fit the line you have, but you get the idea.

RTR!

Took my wife to ask me if I had gas in it, when I was trouble shooting a fuel issue.

water temp sending unit for gauge, two part, threaded and the sensor, sometimes they are so corroded together that it seems like one. Thermotime, expensive, no cheap alternative, about 80$ new. Used ones are a gamble. Only used in temps less than about 65f, although there are others that will fire the cold start valve at temps as warm as 85f. Bosch was used by a lot of different makes in the 70's, IIRC the VW bug for example. I think I ended up getting the warm fire one thinking it would help starting on days when temps were moderate. Does yours have the water temp switch? big fat stubby threads, two wires that come out with bullet connectors? IIRC that can be used for ign timing or EGR (cali cars had the EGR setup). That one is not easy to find, but you can make your own with a thermal NC reed switch.

just got off phone with Hung, they had a batch of 20 that just were not up to the quality standards. Should be getting some more in soon, he is frustrated with it clearly taking so long, but stuff happens, and hopefully will get some good ones on the next batch.

I facebook message Hung today about this (latest update from Ivan) will let you know when I hear back for a status (I assume you have not got an update).

well there is the problem. So now you have to start tracing, go directly to the sensor try to get a reading from the two terminals. But before you even do that locate the bullet connectors on the sub harness that hooks the sensor to the main harness. Get some pics of that. You could have a bad sensor OR a mixed up connection.

out with it, no shaming will be done, we all done stupid things, ask me about using vice grips to hold the TB open then slamming the hood down forgetting to remove them... shall we guess, dist on backwards?

I run Valvoline 20/50 VR1 in mine (high zinc content for the valve train), central fl temps are mostly 80+ thru about 8 months of the year, lows maybe in the upper 30's for a week.

not for the test listed above, some test will have you set up for resistance, some for voltage. The resistance test, no battery. the voltage test will be battery and key on and sometimes key start. The FSM will detail the setting for you. There is a start enrichment test that requires the battery connected and the key to the START position.