87mj

I don't think you are supposed to put them on a car. I think they are intended to be wall art. 😂

I can only speak for myself. But it wasn't but just a few years ago that there wasn't any replacement sheet metal. Tabco pieces were about it. When manufactures start supplying parts, for me, it is very positive. But when you actually purchase and install, that is something completely different. You are risking the entire outcome of a restore based on just a few pieces of sheet metal. That is why tossing them was much less expensive than using them.

Is Jethot coating similar to ceramic coating like they put on exhaust manifolds?

I thought I would add my 2 cents to this. I am not surprised the doors didnt line up. I would certainly reskin doors if I could. If the doors are reskinned correctly, they will be flawless. I would try to stay away from aftermarket panels at all cost. The possible exception is the green classicfab panels. I have used most of them on a combination of 2 different cars. My only complaint about classicfab is to my knowledge, they dont make front fenders but I wish they did. The rockers, floors, the entire rear quarters are very good. The body shop I use until recently, only did classic cars. They were very happy with the classicfabs. I bought new front fenders from resurrected classics a couple of months ago. I thought they were questionable when I pulled up the driveway and saw the box on the porch. "Made in China" was stamped on the side of the box. I test fit them on one of my cars. They didnt fit. Regardless, I took them to the body shop and kept my initial observations to myself assuming they were smarter than me. They test fitted on my other car and they didnt fit. The horror was when they sent me a short video clip of the fender sitting on my car. He was able to press on the top of the fender with his finger. He called it "Oil canning" if you can envision the horror. VERY thin steel. So $700-$800 went in the garbage. Lesson learned.

I have one that is not installed. Let me know what pictures you would like.

They defiantly are related. I received the same email notification. They warned me to disregard the expected delivery date. They said the A2Toys delivery date was always too optimistic. BTW, I bought two sets. I haven't installed them yet but they were much better than I expected. The weatherstrip and the welt strip both looked factory. The aftermarket is far too thick.

I pulled my carbs & intake and wanted to use a local mechanic to break loose the studs on my exhaust downpipe and my manifold. I don't have access to a heat torch. He did a great job. He welded a bolt on a broken manifold stud and was able to reverse a broken stud out. I even bought helicoils for him to use which he didn't need. I was pretty happy with his work. But, when the wrecker picked up the car from the mechanic, it was windy. He took it down a back country road (including a dirt road...). A tree branch fell on the car. At first, he thought he blew a tire. It damaged my front bumper, the hood, the headlight scoops and the roof. All of which are repairable. The car is a 60,000 mile '71. It was painted in about 2000 with a cheap single stage paint job. I didn't think the single stage paint would match. Both headlight scoops and the hood would need repainted but both fenders were fine. It would have looked stupid and the insurance company wasn't too helpful. I decided to go ahead and get the entire car repainted. Now I am tearing the car down, removing everything but the interior and the engine bay wire harness. I wasn't really in the mood to do that. I bought a low vin '70 a few years ago. That car has been a long process but I am ready to reassemble the '70 now so tearing down the '71 was not in my plans. The good news if there is any is that I found a body shop that specializes in restoring classic cars. I heard about them from another local Datsun guy that was very happy with the work they did for him. The body shop does great work and they are very accommodating (they did my '70). Finding a good body shop seems to be the most difficult task. Then you don't know if you made the right decision until after the project is completed. If anyone needs a great body shop, let me know. They are located in northwest Ohio. Such as it is. 😞

What is the harm with installing the later '72+ version of the master cylinder? Factory versions of those are still available. Other than the reservoirs are switched, is there any other difference? That is what I installed on it previously except it was aftermarket.

Thanks for the help. I sure wish I would have kept a closer watch on this. My brake booster was in excellent shape. Now it is ruined. 😞

Slightly off topic but I bought a low mileage '71 several years back and one of the first things I did was to replace the steering rack bushings with poly. I wish I didn't. My steering wheel feels every bump. I plan to replace them someday with the Resurrected Classics 240 bushings. I would think it would be a noticeable improvement. I was very pleased to see they came out with a replacement.

I bought a low mileage '71 about 9 years ago. Shortly after I bought it, I replaced the brake master cylinder. I probably bought the new brake master at z car depo since that is my usual go to store. My car experienced a mishap while on the back of a flat bed wrecker truck so I now have some unplanned restoration work to be done. I was tearing the car down and removed the master cylinder from the brake booster. Over time, brake fluid has run down behind the aluminum flange and ate the paint from the booster. The bottom bolt on the booster has light rust on it now. It didnt before. I can't imagine that I did anything wrong during installation. If the nuts are tight, there isnt too much you can do wrong. Did I do something wrong or is the brake master bad? The car probably has 2,000 on that brake master. Possibly less. I didnt install a gasket but I dont think it had one. I seem to recall a gasket between the firewall and the booster but not between the aluminum flange and the brake master. Any advice even if it is wrong would be appreciated. Thanks

I had a very similar situation. Not exact but similar symptoms. When my '71 car would sit, the fuel filter would drain down to about 1/4 inch full. It required a long crank when cold. My son would watch the fuel filter fill up so he knew exactly when it would start to fire. The ID of the fuel hose was slightly too large and would allow air to get into the line. Then after sitting, the fuel would return to the tank and empty the filter. I bought new hose that is a pain to get off even after the clamps are removed and clamped it down good. Now fuel no longer retreats into the tank and the filter is 1/4 inch empty after it sits for awhile and it fires much quicker after it sits. Sounds suspiciously similar.

One of my intake studs broke during reassembly as if it broke off 90% in 1980. I decided to take it to a shop to have the gasket replaced. I will report back. I think he is on to something.

I recently received z therapy carbs. I installed them with very little fanfare. I was able to get the engine started pretty easily but I didn't fine tune the balance or mixture. Then I replaced the choke cable for an unrelated reason. Now that I am trying to adjust the carbs, I can't get it to run very well. The valves have been adjusted and the timing was set. It has new plugs and wires. The carbs were topped with oil and the vent caps were removed from the float bowls. To adjust the carbs, I warmed the engine and was able to balance them, but the choke linkage needs to be slightly on in order to keep the engine running. I started adjustment with the mixture adjustment screws completely up. Then down 3 full turns. With the choke off and the choke linkage not engaging the choke, the engine will not start with the mixture nuts in that position even when the engine is warm. The only way I can keep it running is by turning the mixture nut counterclockwise (down) opening the jets several turns all the way to the limiting screw. Then I loosen the choke cable retaining screws so that the choke linkage moves freely. Then I slowly move each choke linkage up (ie on) until it idles by itself. But it is not smooth. After setting the mixture screws, if I lift the piston slightly with the screwdriver tip, the car will stumble and die indicating it is too lean. But visually, I have the carbs, and the choke adjusted rich. When I drive it, I can feel a slight stumble and hesitation. If I have the choke slightly pulled and/or the mixture set rich, RPM is at about 1500 at idle. I can keep it running if I disconnect the choke from the carbs and screw the mixture nut all the way down. But that is clearly greater than 2 1/2 - 3 turns. I haven't counted but 5 turns perhaps? But again, the idle is not smooth. The car is not smooth on the road either. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks

If you have stripped the car to its shell and emptied the engine bay like I did, I was thinking about putting that stuff on the back of the left frame rail and along the firewall corner directly under the brake master. I thought it might keep the brake fluid off my paint in case I spilled a little.