sblake01

I'm not completely sure about the statement about this model never being available in the US. Unless he means the coupe. I seem to remember seeing these here, at least the roadster, way back when before people here started taking Japanese cars seriously.

Coastieee240z, 75 280Z=no points. Check the cap/rotor etc. but also check the temp sensor, thermotime switch/cold start valve, etc.

You beat me to it, CoastGuardZ! Our Infiniti was also built in the U.S. as are many so called 'foreign cars.' With all the corporate mergers, not only in the auto industry, but others as well, it's hard to say what is American and what isn't.

77 and 78 EFI parts are the same.

And doesn't the owner of the test car get his bar free? Remember, I live closer. :devious:

There were slight differences in the electronics as they went from 75 to 83. The basic system was about as refined as it ever got in 77. Things like the injector fan were added in 79 on the ZX but I've never really seen any real proof that it really provided any benefit. The location of the temperature sensor changed in 79 on the ZX and at the point the BPT valve was no longer used. I really wouldn't suggest mixing components from the different years. The ECU for a particular year is designed to work with the components in the particular car. There is a label on each ECU warning of potential damage if it used in the wrong year car. The other items you mention such as bigger throttle bodies, custom fuel rails etc. as well as rising rate fuel pressure regulators, bigger injectors (unless you use the turbo injectors) are aftermarket parts and any head or manifold can be ported.

Check your temperature sensor. First check the connector to make sure that it's making good contact. Make sure that your cold start valve/thermotime switch are working correctly.

Does Georgia have anything like California's biennial emissions testing program? I'm just wondering how carbs on a 77 would work out in that respect if your state has such a program. That plus considering the modifications to the wiring, carb linkage, fuel delivery, different fuel pump, etc, you might be just trading one set of problems for another.

Good point, Panchovisa.

Yep, I've blown that type of call off a few times in the last few months. Anyone asking for your security code over the phone is a scammer, plain and simple. Enough people must fall for that because it seems to have been going on for some time now and I'm sure their call back number is not legit and can't be traced. Just hang up!

If your're talking about the rubber air duct between the throttle chamber and the air flow meter, make sure you also check for cracks between the folds. Also make sure there's no leaking at the elbow where the hose from the air regulator connects to that duct.

Koji and Terry are two of the nicest people you'd ever want to meet. They've been at most of the Datsun shows and meets I've attended over the last few years. I enjoy their site and have had it bookmarked for a little over a year now.

Maybe this'll help, I hope it's clear enough.

Considering that I live less than 4 miles from California Speedway, it is a New Years resolution of mine to attend as many events there as possible. I have attended one race there-The inaugural event in June 1997. I saw the Busch Series, the IROC, and the then-Winston Cup races that weekend. Makes no sense to live so close and not go especially since I'm basically retired now.

All Craig seemed to want was the results shown on the dyno slip. Not the whys and where fors of how a dyno works or which model is more accurate or which country had better ones. Sheesh! (You can delete this and my other post if you wish)

Where is the car located? EDIT: :stupid: I guess if I had read the original post...... That's still a pretty good distance from me. About 70 miles with a couple of toll roads.

Rule # 4, which I am now guilty of breaking also, should have been bolded, italicized, underlined, or highlighted in some way. I don't think it would have mattered much on this site as we seem to spend more time off topic than on. Sorry, Craig.

How are the ZX's set up? Is the lock cylinder in the rear panel instead of on the hatch? I've never really looked that closely at one!

Like I said, I don't remember much about my 70 except that I purchased it in February 1970 so it had to be built before that. I actually purchacsed it in early January but it didn't come into the dealership until late February. There was kind of a waiting list. But it did have a clear hatch window. That's about all I can remember to distinguish it from my 72. And like I said I would have been toatally clueless at age 19 about the signifigance.

I hope it's not at Autozone! From personal experience, I would suggest not buying any 'hard parts' for a Z or any other early Datsun from there or any of the chain stores. You'd be much better off having your old core redone at a radiator shop. If Autozone can't get a fan clutch right (and believe me, they can't) I doubt if they could get a heater core right.

And don't just change the core. When you're in there, check the three small hoses, the firewall connector/valve, the heater valve, clamps, etc. Make sure that you don't end up having to go in there again for a problem with the small stuff. Been there, done that! BTW, I was able to change my core without removing the a/c unit.

Maybe it was my 'surface rust?' comment? You've got way more than surface rust going there but I don't want to squash your enthusiasm. I just don't think you realize what you'll have to go through to eliminate what I see in those pictures. Like Carl said, money, time, and skill. And if you don't have the skill then we're talking even more money if someone with the skill does it for you. Your questions and observations would lead one to believe that you think you have a fairly easy repair job ahead of you but the pictures show different.

I don't remember much about the 240Z's I owned when I was a young pup back in the 70s. But I do remember that the first one (1970) did not have a rear window defroster. (Alan T. does HRW=heated rear window?) Anyway, my question is at approximately what VIN was the HRW added on the US market cars? It was the second one sold by the dealership. (Pomona Valley Datsun-now long gone). Evidentally I had a very early car but back then I would have been totally clueless about the signifigance of that.

From the FSM:

Zpression. I guess that's what made me want another one after going twenty years without one. Except now it's a 280Z. It's kind of like the reverse of that episode of the 'Twilight Zone' where the airliner hits some kind of turbulence and goes back to prehistoric time. When they try to reverse the process, they are only able to return to 1939. In the 70s I had a 70 and then a 72. Now I have a 78 so I guess I didn't get all the way back.