sblake01

John, do you have the center linkage and springs?

I do understand your situation. I sometimes forget how that is since I have three cars. I don't do quick fixes on my cars because I have something else to drive. The post you missed really wasn't much. I just get frustrated when I tell someone how to do something right because I've been there...done that, and others dispute my suggestions based on what they've heard.

Sometimes I wished I lived closer to the guys that post EFI problems so that I could actually go look at the cars and offer my help. I've solved just about everything that can come up on these cars. I've even come up with a few better solutions than just standard fixes in some cases. But it's so difficult make suggestions based on reading rather than seeing it in person and everyone is so spread out across the country. Actually, the world.

I was going to say all of that but after giving my input to the guy with the 260Z the other day, and seeing some of the reactions, I have concluded that speaking in terms of blatent harsh reality gets misunderstood. You remember, the guy with 60psi compression who was going to have a ring job done by a guy who woudn't touch his carbs or buy an engine from Craigs list for 300 bucks (with 5 speed!) and I said I didn't think either of those would solve his problems? I know that this post is a total digression but, I have to say, you've nailed my thoughts exactly!

I haven't driven mine since 1pm today. But, seriously, if anyone needs a 78 FSM, I can send it to you. I have it set up in four sepsrate emails, ranging from about 1.3mb to 1.8 mb ea, and all you have to do is download the sections into a folder. That is if your isp allows emails that size.

ROFLROFL

I don't have a filter there on my car. That's an add on that some people do if they're having problems with contamination in the gas tank. The only real cure for that is to drop the tank and clean or replace it. Short of that, the filter you have appears to be a universal one, not a Nissan item, and you should be able to find one at an auto parts store. Just make sure it's for fuel injection and it has the right size nipples (5/8"). You mignt also want to consider replacing the factory fuel filter under the hood.

FSM: Factory Service Manual. A while back I cut the ECU connector out of a junkyard car with about 8-10" of the wires on it with the intention intention of someday making a ECU test board with it. As soon as I figure out, or find posted somewhere, what the test parameters should be.

I'll type the warning that's on the side of a 79 ECU I have. Now, I don't know what the 'proper adapter harness' would be, probably something you'd have found in a Datsun or Nissan dealership years ago. Now there is a check that you can do outlined in the FSM where you check the 35 pin connector . But I don't know of an actual test for the ECU itself.

I guess that would work. I've never tried to do it that way. However you relieve the pressure it, there will still be some fuel leakage when you remove the hoses.

Thanks. I thought his filter was on the other side. It's a large picture and I didn't scroll all the way across it to get the proper prospective.

That's the Full Throttle Z video. Not nearly as interesting as the other one.

Maybe I'm not understanding where he has that filter mounted.

How's your water temperature sensor? When I had that problem it turned out to be a bad connection at the sensor.

Did you scroll down the left column to 'Z Registers'?

This? http://www.zhome.com/

I've got it but, like Gary, I don't know how to rip it and upload it.

Actually, when everything is right there should be pressure on all sides even when he car's not running. Here's how the FSM says the relieve it:

Yep. Anything that lowers the fuel pressure plus the inside of that fuel filter looks pretty nasty.

Leak? At 36+ psi that's a blowtorch waiting to happen! Don't know if it would cause the car not to run but it would cause me not to drive it until it's fixed.

If he could rebuild it himself, he wouldn't need the mechanic.

Okay but it was made 1/71 and his was made 12/70. They're both 71's DMW notwithstanding. That was my point in post #50.

First of all, if I were you I'd find someone other than the 'local shop'. I don't think I would let a 'mechanic' who is afraid to touch the carbs have anything to do with rebuilding my engine. That, to me, says that he doesn't know these cars. You need to find someone who is more familiar with these cars to have that type of work done on it. What good would it do to have 'ring job' done without tending to the carbs? I also don't think a $300 motor (even with the trans) is really the answer. What makes you think that it's any better than yours? If it were a strong motor I think the asking price would be higher than that without the trans. You've done a couple of other threads about this car and you've talked about fuel cells and fender mirrors so I don't think you really know what you want to do with the car so I'm not really sure any discussion about originality or value realy goes with any of this. Many suggestions were made as potential solutions to your car's problems similar to Gary's post above. Did you try those? See if you can hook up with someone maybe in a local Z club or find a shop that has the knowlege to work on these cars. Otherwise your naivety will likely end up causing you much frustration and expense. I'm not trying to kill your enthusiasm, I just hate to see people overspend on their cars and not accomplish what they're trying to accomplish. A certain ruby red 77 in Nor Cal comes to mind.

I'd say HLS30-15369 would be a 71 based on these three lines:

Everything else remaining the same, wouldn't that cause a tendency for the rear brakes to lock up easier than using the correct sized wheel cylinder? 13/16 inch were used 10/69-6/72 and 7/8 inch were used 7/72-6/78. FSM means Factory Service Manual. EDIT: Al, besides answering my question, you're a faster typist than I!