sblake01

I'll have to read up on the AIV. Could be the EGR is okay since, according the the report, it passed the functional check. I don't know where Greenwood is but it sounds far away from San Bernardino otherwise I'd volunteer to come by with my exhaust gas analyzer to see where the car is at emission wise after you clean the AIV.

First of all, welcome to the site, Pixie! With all due respect, let me just say, when I opened this thread and saw your avitar, my day immediately got better! But, enough of that. You might want to take a look at this thread which talks about a member that was experiencing a similar problem.

For the price, and the claims of how they're reconditioned, it does seem like a great deal. Autozone gets $38.99 for one, not that I'd ever buy one from them. Speaking of flow testing I'm presently working on my own (and better/more compact) version of this.

Come on, Arne, you've said it twice, Gary and I both agreed with you. If the want to fry their wiring, let 'em! It has all the makings of another thread--"Rewiring the S30 after 140 amp GM alternator upgrade".

The 84 Maxima would still be an L6, the last gasp for our beloved L series. I'm sure Jeff was referring to a V6/FWD Maxima, 85 and up.

Are you talking about regular paint thinner or lacquer thinner? That stuff will take the skin off your hands if you leave it on too long!

I've rebuilt them too but I wouldn't use that stuff. That's why it locks up "maybe even a little too well" as you say. You should use silicone oil, like what was in it in the first place. I forget the weight because it's been a while since I did one and I'd have to find my notes. It's available through Toyota but you can also buy silicone oil at places that sell RC car supplies for a little less money.

I don't understand the need for more than the stock Z/ZX 60 amp alternator. In my 78 280 and in my 79 810, I have the stock, internally regulated 60 amp alternator. Both cars have AC, stereo w/amp and subwoofer, auxillary condenser fans, upgraded headlignts, etc. and I have no problems. As long as your wiring/connections are good, you really don't need 80/90/105 amps and might possibly create more problems by installing one capable of putting out that kind of amperage.

The fuel damper should be under the car, right above the fuel pump. Sounds to me like you didn't get all the rust out. Rust would clog under driving as opposed to idle because it takes a more constant and higher fuel pressure to drive than it does to idle. You should connect a pressure gauge between the fuel filter and fuel rail and check the pressure. If your pump and pressure regulator are okay and you notice a drop in fuel pressure as the car starts to die out, the you still have rust/crud in the tank/lines somewhere. P.S. Is the "capital letter on every word" thing, the extra puctuation, and the 'run-on sentence' a 'trademark' type thing for you? I'd lose it because it's kind of annoying and I almost ignored this post because of it. This isn't a chatroom or texting.

That's all great advice. Now, if the poster would just acknowledge any of it......:mad: He aksed the question over three weeks ago.

New York is in Europe? 5 posts so far that bring back old threads and add absolutely nothing of value to them. Classifieds from California in your signature when you claim to be in New York. Are you sure you're not 'fullhouse'?

Why are you guys even dignifying this thread with answers? He posted this topic in four different sections, evidentally Mike deleted the other three. And we were wondering if he was some kind of a 'bot' when you could see all four threads, or another 'fullhouse'.

From the 77 FSM:

Why are you here then? Don't hate on Nissans just because you can't fix yours.

It's not the cable since your odometer still works. One cable drives them both. I don't know about 'unsticking' it because I've never run across that problem.

Yes and yes. I have one out in the shed that was welded but I blew it up in my 510. I remember that the inner wheel would squeal on tight turns.

I've used plumbers putty and closed cell weatherstripping. They both work well but the latter is easier to deal with when you want to remove it again.

Unless you plan to race, don't weld your differential. I doesn't make it "positive tracion" it locks it which is a pain for steet use..

The only thing I would ever spray into the AFM is throttle body/air intake cleaner. It has a lighter consistency than carb/choke cleaner anid is designed to not harm O2 sensors, cat. converters, plastic and rubber parts, etc.

I've been w/Hagerty for almost 10 years. They will cover the towing/roadside assistence on your daily driver, but they won't insure them. One of their stipulations is that you must have a daily driver that is insured by a regular carrier in order to have your classic(s) insured by them.

Go to this site and you can download it right away.

I'm sorry, I spoke too soon. Disregard that last post. I just looked through the speedo gears and I don't have a 17t. Only an 18t(3.70), and a 19t(3.90). And the 17t would actually be black.

I believe that's the yellow 17 tooth gear. I've got on if you want it. PM me.

The EGR valve is likely okay. It's the passages under it in the manifold that get carboned up and need to be cleaned out. Can't you just set the timing? The VG30E still has a distirbutor unlike the VG30DE.

Cool:smoke: