sblake01

Hadn't considered that. May be true on Stephen's car, it's a 71, but Jim's is a 73 and I believe that change was made for the 72 model year.

Did you (speedracer906) replace the front differential mount?

Yeah, that chat kind of made my brain hurt trying to understand it. But I did get that there was fluctuation in the exchange rate during those five years.

If you can move the advance mechanism manually and it moves freely and snaps back when you let it go, then your vacuum pot is toast, most likely has a hole in the diaphragm. The Pertronix can use a vacuum advance. The clunk in the rear end is most likely the front diff mount. That's what solved it on my 78.

First of all, a 77 280Z has no 'mass air flow meter' or 'CPU'. They weren't that sophisticated or modern. Air flow meter and ECU. Beyond that, unless you want to do some major modification/fabrication followed by the troubleshooting that goes with it since your car isn't presently runing properly, a more modern ECU is probably out of the question. What makes you think that your ECU is bad? You've thrown a lot of parts at that car which makes it hard to diagnose. Obviously the shop your car is at doesn't have a clue so there is no level of certainty that those parts were installed correctly which can lead to more uncertainty when trying to figure it out. You have to get back to basics and start the troubleshooting from square one. If you are unable to troubleshoot it yourself by reading and understanding the 1977 280Z FSM you need to find a shop that actually knows these cars. If you were in So Cal, I'd suggest Z Car Specialty in Upland, CA. Maybe someone in the Las Vegas area knows a good shop and will chime in. Where you have yor car they are guessing instead of troubleshooting and charging you for a lot of unnecessary parts. None of your description leads me in any real direction as to what can be wrong. It's just too vague. I know this is kind of harsh but that's the reality of it.

Would the models that were destined for Canada be different from the ones destined for the USA?

That would have been my take regardless of how much anyone tries to explain therr reasons for posting about different stereos if you consider the title of the thread. Replacement speakers for stock radio?

The tank stores vacuum for the operation of the mode doors, ficd, etc. One valve is for the mode doors and the other is for the ficd. The mode doors will work without them, tank and valve, but the on-off action will be slower. The ficd won't work preperly without the valve because it will be open whenever there's vacuum. So, unless you plug the ficd, you'll have fast idle constantly without the magnet valve to control it. So, essentially, without the valves, you won't have fast idle when the AC is on. Many aftermarket systems have no provision for fast idle. I'd say, if you can find good magnet valves and a good check valve, use them.

Did you submit your info to them?

You could always blast it with liquid nitrogen........

Oh those are some gorgeous colors! I looked at Infinitis a couple of months ago and they actually have three platimun colors. Liquid Platinum, which is somewhat like mriz's color, Desert Platinum, which is a little darker, and Platinum Graphite, which is a more charcoal-ish silver.

I did the LED dash bulb upgrade on my 810 and I like it because the stock bulbs in that car always seemed kind of dim but my Z still has the stock bulbs and they've always been okay. BTW, I think the color looks great on your car especially when compared to your old avitar.

Errr.......okay. Tomo, that is a dual master. It just has a single resevoir. We all know how they work.

In my post (#6) I said: The statement should have read: I'm glad that worked. Like I said, I have a 78 which is different from the 75-77 in many ways when it comes to wiring. But when I looked at the 77, combined with your explanation of how that extra wire was hooked up, it dawned on me that the car wouldn't run because breaking that wire interupted the continuity in that circuit.

That should read: 'tachometer signal wire'.

Just a follow up: I think the black wire with the speaker wire spliced into it is the blue wire in the diagram and that's the signal wire. I won't run without a connection there.

If both ends of the 'speaker' wire are hot, two things. One, it's not a speaker wire in that I've never seen a speaker that takes 12 volts to both terminals and two, if both ends are hot, putting them togehter won't fry anything. The 'kill switch' scenario makes sense to me. And if that works, you actually should remove that wire and splice the black wire from the connector back to the black wire from the ECU.

I believe Jim got his vot/fuel gauge. I had offered him a virtually perfect one for a 77/78 but he declined since he had found one closer to home.

You only need 90% as much Freeze12 to replace R12 so three cans would be more than enough.

Well, hell, I've got SSS emblems on my 810. Really doesn't mean much. Nice rims. I actually had a set of those years ago.

Actually, no. If you used stock parts in either of the combinations you mentioned, what you would have is basically a stock L26.

That won't get you too far here.

Hell, I've got about 8 or 9 working E12-80 modules. I'll give you one for postage.

Niether of those two combinations you list would be any different than a stock L26. 1) 260 base engine, 280z crankshaft, E88 head: That's basically what the factory did. The 260 and 280 crank are the same thing as are the rods. and you'd use 260 pistons in this combo. Well, that's exactly how the factory built them. 2) 240Z base engine, 280Z crankshaft, 260 head: Well, if you think about that, that is also basically what the factory did. An L24 block would need the L26 pistons and L26/28 rods to run a L28 crank. A 260 head is an E88. Both scenarios are the same as a factory built stock L26 with a displacement of 2565 cc amd a compression ratio of 8.29-1. So there would be actually no need to go out of your way to put together either of those combinations since Nissan already did it about 35 years ago. Basically what I'm trying to say is that an L26 is an L24 with L26 pistons and L26/L28 crank and rods.

Where did the other end of the 'speaker' wire connect? I'm giving this a lot of thought but my expertise(?) is with the a 78 280 and a 79 810 which is different from the earlier cars.