Matthew Abate

I was looking around for info on Koni shocks and found that Zcar Depot has front and rear sets for $389.00 a pair. Then I started digging around in here to find out what they feel like on the street and noticed that no one has mentioned this particular model number. I can't find it anywhere on the internet except for this site: https://zcardepot.com/suspension/shocks/koni-shocks-strut-adjustable-front-new-240z-260z.html?search=Koni Do they have a typo in the model number? Is this a new item? Am I missing something fundamental about how to shop for these? /M

Wait, so the only difference between the '72 and '73 mounting brackets is the cylender welded to the front? I was going to wait until much later to research this, but since you guys are talking about it now, I'll interject. The guy who sold me my car cut those cylinders off in order to fit a towing bar to the car (and bent them out of shape in the process of dragging it 1,000 miles to my house). Can I theoretically just bolt a '72 bumper on and call it done? /M

Hmm. Interesting. I'll look into it and see how it is compared to the Citristrip, which I can buy locally at Home Depot when I go get the lumber I need to block the ceiling under my kitchen that my idiot contractor FORGOT to do and has made making nag dinner like getting on a trampoline. Then I get to retile the floor. Fun times with home ownership. In other news, I am employed again, so I can get back on the car floors project once the savings has been refilled from three months of no deposits. I have a few options lined up now. It's all going to depend on the total cost and the order things need to happen. Quite a few people have offered to do the welding jobs, so I just have to pick one and plan out the schedule. /M

I need a source in NJ as well. Preferably north eastern in the Newark area. Did a search and there seems to be about 20 places that do that and radiators. /M

I took a break from the interior and pulled some more exterior parts. Nothing major. Yesterday was the 5YO's birthday so not a lot of free time lately. The rear bumper was sort of a bitch to get off. Looks like it had been tapped or backed into something, because the bracket was bent on the left and the mount point on the left fender is a bit dimpled and the bracket inside the bumper is bent up where it was pushed forward a touch. Nothing I can't bang back into shape in two seconds, but it really drives home how terrible the design for these bumpers is for repairing the car after a collision. Also pulled the sheet metal that protects the fuel lines behind the right rear tire, which brings up two questions I haven't had a chance to research: 1) is there supposed to be one of these on the left side? I didn't see any holes for one so I assume not. And 2) are these little holes in the fender arch supposed to be there or did some dirtbag put aftermarket mudflaps on my baby? I assume the latter. /M

Pro tip for people thinking about the Subaru diff swap: while the WRX STI didn't always come with one, it looks like the Subaru Forester and maybe the Outback might have used an R180, so that could open up the options. I need to verify this, but there's one on eBay out of a Forester right now. I believe the ratio was 4.44, though. /M Edit: the Subaru r180 seems to be limited to turbos and 6-speeds, so that might help with searches.

Hmmmm, sounds like having it stripped for me might be the way to go. My garage sits underneath my house and I don't want to fill my kids' rooms with fumes. Either that or find a spectacular blasting guy. Thanks for the tips! /M

You can get red LED lights meant to go on the back plate or any number of other places on a motorcycle. If there are any places to mount them that you could run a wire this might be effective, especially if you can swivel them around to point directly into the following car. I haven't gotten to that part of my restoration yet, so I can't think of where would work best. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I got a chance to get my head behind the front rims today. It turns out they are Shelby 14x6 slotted mags. Not sure if I can get the busted hub cover screws out without ruining them, but if I can I will be able to salvage them. I didn't see any real problem spots and I should be able to polish out the intense patina. I am glad they are at least a name people recognize. Maybe I'll be able to get something for them when I'm ready to replace them. ... I've been thinking a lot about the drive train, and the one thing I'm 100% solid on is that the #1 upgrade I need to do is a 5 speed. From what I can tell, the model number for the easiest swap is FS5W71B (Long extension housing) and came in these cars: * Datsun 200SX (S110) with Z20 engine * Datsun Maxima (810) with LD28 diesel * Nissan 720 with SD diesel * Nissan 200SX with CA18ET engine * Datsun 720 long tail * 1977-80 Datsun 280Z * 1979 280ZX (non-Turbo) * Datsun 810 * Datsun 620 Obviously, there were different ratios depending on the car and year, so I need to match it to the rear end ratio I will end with and figure out what works best with my driving style (aggressive, lead footed, and sharp).

I guess I better stop with the wire then.

I would put some rectangular rally lights there, personally.

I might have that same goo in mine. I found a chisel and small hammer kinda got under it and popped chunks off without too much trouble. Plastic wheel and not a metal twisted wire wheel?

Not much to report as I've been spending the week trying to lock down a new job. Here's where I am as of tonight: Took the remaining dash components out, along with the heater and paper trim pieces. I think all that's left is the steering column, paper firewall insulation, pedals, and wiring. That stuff needs to stay in until I pull the suspension and engine, so I'm moving to the back half of the interior after I box all of these parts up. Also, what's this called? : ... In other news, I'm starting to talk to places about the welding and paint. I have a guy coming in two weeks who is in Boonton, NJ and will give me a quote on fixing the wholes, stripping, epoxy coating, and painting everything. That will dictate a lot of how I move forward (what I do myself and what I farm out). By the way, he told me definitely not to media blast the car and use aircraft stripper instead. Anyone have experience with this? /M

Which one did you get? I'm doing some light research on them and don't really know where to start.

I don't think we got the choice in NJ. I could be wrong, but I remember reading something about the lobby killing it in the NJ legislature.To get back on topic, I'm just going to use my gas cans we keep in the garage for the generator. Either that or use the trick I used on my motorcycle, which was to just do it myself anyway and stare daggers when they went to argue.

Widened steel Datsun wheels specifically? Do you have pictures of them?

I was looking for feedback on how close it is to the original (can you tell its a replacement or is it just like the NOS part?) more than that people like them. As in a product review, which I can't find in this forums search.In other words, is replacing the whole thing better than trying to fix the original. It's only $100ish, which to me feels like a deal if it is indistinguishable from the original and doesn't break when you breathe on it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I was looking at some photos in a JDM gallery the other day and saw a roadster with stock steel wheels that had been painted gold. It looked damn hot, so I am considering doing something like this. But... I also want wider and larger diameter wheels than the stock rims. I know people widen domestic steel rims for American muscle cars, so I am curious if anyone has any experience with this. I've seen huge (12" + wide) 14" diameter Datsun wheels on stance and drift cars, but nothing closer to what I see around here. Can you take the stock win up to 15x7"? Is the cost close enough to the cost of buying new rims or is it crazy expensive to do this? Ideally I'd end up with 15x7" up front and 15x7.5 or 8 in the rear with 0 offset all around. I'm intending to have a stock suspension without flares and dropped 1 to 1.5 inches.

No opinions on the full covers at zstore I mentioned earlier? /M

So I take it the replacements at MSA and various other places are frowned upon? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic08d04 They're only $100. Are they really so different from the originals that people don't recommend them? /M

There, I fixed it for you. /M

Me too. Most of of the delay for me was going back and rereading the instructions to make sure I wasn't skipping a step. FYI, you'll need some long socket extensions for the heater and some very short or 90 degree screw drivers to get the heater control wires separated to get the center plastic piece out. The hardest part is separating the damned plugs on the wiring harnesses. /M

Urg. Yeah. Sounds like match panels are the way to go. /M

Can anyone tell me the right way to fix this? Ideally, I want to source a new wall from a parts car if I can find one and have it sent to me, but I have a feeling it might be cost prohibitive. /M

About an hour. Here are the instructions: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/5934-removing-dash-and-interior-for-paint/ The only hard part was finding where the heater controls connected on the right side near the firewall and getting a screwdriver in there. Just be careful with the dash. I didn't realize they are that fragile. :/ /M