gwri8

This is what gets me going

Mine is approaching paint. Everything I've shot so far have been progress/document shots since I brought it home. If it's done in time and the weather is good, I'll shoot it proper before the end of the year.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I do like shiny things (I was probably an Otter in a previous life) and I know clear will buff out great. I guess my only concern would be the clear peeling, We've all seen this on other cars, even some with factory paint and I do not want to experience that a few years from now. The fellow who I've contacted about paint said he could do a base with 2 coats clear and that he uses Sherwin Williams paint. Paint is probably a few weeks away. In my mind I'll go back and forth with the single stage vs. base/clear in that time. Many beers will have been consumed between now and then. But right now it looks like the base/clear is the preference.

The body work is getting close to finished so I'm starting to look at paint for my 280. The original color code is 240 Racing Green (metal flake) and I will probably keep that color. I will not be the one painting. The question is, what type of paint should I choose? Base with a Clear coat or Urethane /Acrylic? I'm not sure which will look better with a metal flake paint and which will be the tougher of the two. It is not going on a show car, but it is not a daily driver either. I do drive it and people do look at it, you know what I mean? Anyone have an opinion on types of paint and why? I'm all ears (or maybe eyes since this is a post).

Now y'all make me want to buy a $35.00 key. I already have the key ring…. Edit; Just found the key on MSA. Boy they sure are proud of those things. Not even close to the $35 I thought. Wow!

Progress!

I'll bet it's earthquake proof.

Yep, That's what mine measure out to be. IMO I really don't think 1/8" here or there is going to make a big difference for level, especially if you drive around corners. You can get the width and length of each piece just by looking for the indents on top of the tank.

Very nice! Looks like you're doing everything the right way.

There were no leaks or anything to cause necessity. There was a minimal amount of rust in the interior though. Just took the opportunity to address any future problems and to give myself a little piece of mind. If any fuel problems occur in the future, I will know its condition and can eliminate our friend, Mr. Rust in the tank, as a problem source. The bonus is that if I ever decide to part ways with the Z, It makes a very good selling point. But I don't see that happening anytime soon.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40292-gas-tank-top-side-bumper-rubber-substitute/?hl=%2Btank+%2Bpads#entry362329

While my 77' is in for body work (rockers,doglegs,and rear valence), I took the leap and POR15'd the fuel tank, inside and out. I've been wanting to do this for a while now and was inspired by this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/17542-treating-insideoutside-of-gas-tank-with-por15-products-and-removing-evaporation-tank/page-2?hl=tank Before During , After Inside before and after ,

Seems like a good place to sell tires……..and rims too.

Jai, Sorry I've been lax. I haven't forgotten, I'm just trying to figure out a time and a good safe way to do this. I've got my hands on a used front mount insulator and strap in case yours turn out to be bad.

Thanks Steve, got it. On pg RA9, if that it what you are leading me to, then visually the front mount insulator is not up to snuff just by looking at the amount of cushion on top. The current one might even be deformed also. I really can't compare as my Z is not available right now. I've done that before when I rebuilt mine and That should not be too difficult to replace…..if it were on a solid surface. I do remember some of Blue's photos of him working on gravel using pieces of wood for support and thinking, I'm glad I don't have to do that. Humbled once again, I am. By the way, I like wild geese.

Steve, XenonZcar has been under construction for a while so no FSM's are available. However, I have the 77 FSM and it is pg. 392 RA9, Fig. RA25. It is the Front mount insulator. I'm pretty sure they are the same. Braver?, meh, I've got a teenage daughter, nuthin' scares me…...

Thanks Zed Head. My heart kinda sank when I first noticed it as she has very limited $ for that kind of thing. It's a little relief that you think it's something else. I'm still going to give it a big eyeball next time just to make sure.

I couldn't get my big head in close enough to see, but if you look at pic #2, above the mount, I think I see a crack. Would that be the neck of the differential?

So I saw Redbird yesterday and put it up on jack stands. I watched as Jai sat in it and let out the clutch. The noise Jai is hearing is her differential lifting and bouncing around when it's put in gear. When it torques, I think it is lifting and causing the driver side axle to lift up and pinch a little making the connecting bolts tat tat tat when turning as well as hitting the body. I should have shot a video to better describe it . I didn't have much room to really check but the Diff strap was not obviously broken and I could not get a good visual on the mount insulator. Those would be my first guess without putting the car on a rack or at least a hard surface. Any one have any spares or any other suggestions? Driver side U-joint, sorry for the blurry pic. Diff mount U-joint at differential Back to the throttle issue, I think the next time out we probably need to check out the TPS and the throttle itself as it still has a rough idle when warming up but it revs just fine. It might just need a good cleaning out.