gramercyjam

I'd even go for some 86 or 87 mm pistons too.

Looking for an all-out racing cam, valve springs, 83 or 84 mm forged pop-up pistons and maybe a prepared crank for a Datsun 240Z (cranks from an L24/26/28 will work but can't use a diesel stroker crank) for a 14:1 N/A motor build. Let me know what you have.

I have one in my shop I need to get rid of you can have for $50. Fedex ground would probably be about $70.

nope.

I think it all depends on what you plan on doing with the car. You can hardly tell the difference between a 240 and 260 with the bumpers off and the carbs changed. A few minor differences but they are essentially the same chassis. But $4200 is a lot of money for an old car that isn't all one color though.

No more play sand for me, it isn't worth the trouble, whether or not you are reclaiming the media. Black Diamonds - in 50 lb bags from Northern Tools is around $5. Just shot 300 lbs last weekend. Cleans much better than sand, no clogging, clumping, etc (sand will clog no matter how much you sift it). Much less dust and no _silica_ dust either. I blast at 170 psi using a compressor with a 60 gal tank. It will go as long as I want to go. Little 5 HP, 120 PSI compressors with 20 gal tanks will let you blast for about 30 seconds, then you wait 5 minutes for them to pump up. Get a decent blasting hood with lots of extra lenses, a particulate respirator and wear heavy leather gloves.

If the strut bar has rod ends, then they should be adjustable. Rod ends do something else for you too. Rigidly mounted strut bars will flex from bending forces. Rod ends prevent the bending forces from being applied to the strut bar, yet allow the strut bar to do it job.

Many ebay sellers businesses make their profit on shipping alone. I will ask many of them to combine shipping if I am buying several small things from them (like R/C car parts). Many will just say no. Ask them why and they will tell you they don't make any money on the item itself, shipping is how they make their money.

I find it easier to modulate my brakes with booster disconnected. But my car is very light and they lock up very easily.

Well then the striped arse, vitek, and red bolt ideas are looking good as is the BRE. The vitek and red bolt appeal to me more than some of the others because I think the graphics/stripes ideas that go over the front fender detract from the lines of the car. I think the Capt America theme would be more appealing if the stripe that goes in front of the fender to the air dam (lower cowl or whatever that part is called) curved the other way. If I ever get that far on my car I was thinking of painting it with a paintball gun....

Who you be representin'? TexaZ - and it goes with the license plate.

Now I could really get into boating if I had those to play with.

Probably not much help but FWIW, I like the first 2 gears of my '73 4 speed with the R190 4.44 rear end for autox. I don't like the 2nd to 3rd spread though and the car never sees 4th anymore. The 5 speed may have a closer 2-3 spread but it probably moves the wider spread down to the lower gears IIRC. When it had a 4.1 rear end on the street it scooted up well over 100 MPH very easily and I thought the 4 speed gears were just about perfect since I don't drive much faster than that ever. But the higher crusing revs and associated higher noise levels made it more tiring to drive. Gas mileage has never been a concern with me for "fun" cars. With the stock rear end, it was just about a perfect cruiser at the expense of a little more spirit from the 4.1 gears, so I really wonder why so many people put 5 speeds in the 240's (unless they put the shorter gears in too). I had the BW T5 in my '83 280ZX turbo and I really don't remember feeling one way or the other about the gears. They were probably just right for a turbo cruiser. I got lots of speeding tickets on the Interstate in that car too as it likes to cruise in 5th at much higher speeds than the 240Z. I do vivdly remember the thing had plenty of problems with the input shaft, presumabily due to the extreme heat from the turbo and that it is very heavy to lift when trying to put it back in after an R&R.

Cool. So what are they for? Generators? What's the fuel consumption rate?

- double post -

Good quality and better selection at Northern Tool, up the street from me here. There is a harbor freight down the street from me too, and I've never seen anything I would want to use there. I have also seen some good ones for a reasonable price on JEG's.

I got those dents when I jack up my car and miss the pinch welds/forget there is nothing there to support the weight of the car. I think I've heard of this from other people too.

Heat shields between the intake/exhaust still installed?

Here's a copy of the instructions Coilover Install

No DOT on mine. They still say off road use only.

Watching people eating disgusting crap like maggots and rancid cheese for the hope of $50G's was fun, but now it's getting a little boring. Best show I saw on TV so far this week was the World Championship Poker Tournament. TV shows just fill up the time in between commercials anyway. If your sitting in front of the TV your throwing away time. Read a book or play a game instead. Now where the heck is the remote control? I wonder whats on channel 208 tonight?

Race car wiring is a piece of cake. I did mine in a day. After gutting the car it was easier to rip out all the old wiring and rewire it than try and figure all the old stuff out and splice it. Plus the old stuff under the hood was was nasty ..... My setup isn't fancy. Just cheap, simple and reliable. Starter switch Ignition switch, Electric fan switch alternator switch fuel pump switch voltmeter switch all wired through a $5 6 circuit fuse block. Bought a few rolls of wire and some spade connectors at the electronics store. Some 8 gauge for the starter to the fuse box run, some thinner stuff for the runs from the fuse box to the coil, etc, fuse box to switches, ground runs. A good 50 amp or so circuit breaker and a relay for the electric fans is a good idea. Then just fuse the circuit that energizes the relay .... Get you one of those automatic wire strippers at home depot for $12 (doesn't need to be the best one they have), they are worth it. Get a good 45 watt Weller soldering iron and stand and some good rosin core solder, an assortment of long shrink tubing that you can cut to size and some of that slit convoluted tubing for putting the wires in to protect them from chafing, a metal/rubber few wire holders that you can screw down and fasten your harness to the body in strategic areas and a handful of nylon wire ties to neaten things up. A heat gun is best for shinking the heat shink tubing. Couldn't find any cheap, long battery cables for relocating the battery so I bought a good set of fine stranded jumper cables and used that wire for the battery to starter run and battery to ground run. I had rewired a some other cars before and have always been real handy with a soldering iron, but it really isn't to hard. Total cost was maybe $120, not including all new gauges. I'm still using the old alternator/external voltage regulator so figuring out the wiring for that was probably the most difficult part. I tried following the schematic to duplicate that wiring, but it didn't work, so I just unwrapped the old harness and copied the connections that way.

Here's what I ordered: Code Product Quantity Price Total ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SF245121G MSA Performance Stainless Steel Brake Lines, 70-81 Z/ZX 1 $67.95 $67.95 SSYear: 70-78 Shipping:: $7.35 Sales Tax:: $0.00 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Total: $75.30 As I recall, they all appear to be the same length, about 12". I don't know what size the fittings are. I assume they are the right fittings and won't require adapters.

I just got some a couple weeks ago. I haven't gotten around to putting them on yet, but they still have an Earls label and look like quality parts and they are quite inexpensive. They may be a tad shorter than I had hoped. If the brake hoses are a little longer than stock, it makes it easier to remove strut inserts and change springs without disconnecting the brake lines or the lower control arms.