Mark Maras

Yeah, that is cool. At $3500.00 it could pay for itself in very little time.

May or may not be related to Zs, When my Subaru brakes start getting noisy, I can quiet them with a thorough cleaning using compressed air. Lot's of dust buildup. I don't ever remember a brake squeal problem in my original Z. I agree with Chickenman, new compounds seem to be prone to squealing.

I've had a great deal of experience with both types of wire. Flux core wire is my choice for welding on unclean or coated steel. ( paint, rust, galvanizing etc. The cleaner the steel is, the better the weld will be but when you do weld the crud, you won't have the porosity of a hard wire setup. I've been using E71T .030 fluxcore in a little 100amp Lincoln for replacing the floors and battery area in my 260. The nature of the welding (nothing continuous just a bunch of one second bursts.) on these Zs doesn't max out the duty cycle of even this small Lincoln. I wouldn't want to use it for anything much heavier than sheet metal but a small welder and flux core wire is my choice for this project. I did trade in my old small window hood for an auto darkening one. I found that when welding delicate seams, my accuracy was a lot better when I didn't have to lower my hood with the usual head nod.

Good compression. I doubt that you have much, if any, spark to #4. Check the dist. cap, rotor, #4 wire & the connections. Try swapping #4 plug & wire with # 3 or #5 & see if the problem moves to another cylinder.

Gwri8 Thanks for your effort. I think you're right about the gas. Hopefully RB is going to be reliable now. Is the potentiometer add-on the best method of leaning it out a bit? Temporarily, will keeping the revs up keep it clean enough to not foul plugs? In your opinion.

No doubt about it. At least she's letting him keep the other one. The one that is offered has a clean title & is fairly complete. I wonder why he considers it a parts car. It doesn't look that bad on the outside.

Second picture shows another one. Seller sounds motivated. Hmmm.

Zed Head I like that idea. Maybe start with a pre-fab roll bar and add on as needed. My old one bolted to the shock towers & the front of the rear wheel well. A good piece to start with.

BIG BROTHER. Orwell saw it coming.

Have you tried welding any of the sheet metal that you've removed yet? If not, take a couple of the best pieces and butt weld them together. Not too bad? Now try a vertical & an overhead. Now imagine doing these welds in locations that are difficult to reach & see. The reality is, you'll be cutting away a lot of sheet metal before you find decent metal that you can weld to. I'm going to suggest using E71T welding wire. I'm using .030. No gas. This wire is very forgiving when welding crappy, painted, dirty, rusty, or galvanized steel. No pin holes. You'll be cleaning as much of the crust off of the sheet metal before welding but you can't get to all of it. Let us know how you do. Honestly, I'm hoping you can do it.

Nice, upper left is what my 260 DID look like, at one time.

Zed Head, I agree with all of the possibilities except the f. pump. Can't figure out why a bad pump would cause black plugs. Jai, Possible success? We won't know until you try again several times. It may be just a normal glitch in the EFI cold to warm-up process. Do you remember it happening in the past? I really don't know squat about EFI, I remember RossiZ mentioning a similar symptom with his EFI. When he switched to SUs, the temporary rough running, when cold, went away. How long has the tach been bad? Was it dead before the problems started & does it ever show any life?

Jai As I understand it, the car now starts & runs OK. If it were me, I would start her up, let her warm & start making trips to the mailbox & back keeping the RPMs up around 3000rpm. If it does start to crap out, push in the clutch & give it full throttle. I've had a moderate amount of success forcing small amounts of water to pass through the engine and managed to keep the engine running til it passed. You'll know if & when it has passed. The engine will start running normal again. If it doesn't crap out, you'll gain some confidence in her ability to be reliable. BTW the gas drier is still a good idea.

rcb280Z I've been wondering about the frequency of the smoke too. I don't have an answer yet. But as far as the "smoke" lingering, if the car was under an open canopy, there must have been no breeze & if the relative humidity was high & if there was a lot of condensation in the exhaust (a lot of ifs) a cloud of "smoke" could & would hang around. I've seen this happen when the conditions are just right. Jai On the Tues. morning of the "smoke" , you started the car. How long did it idle before driving it? You saw a cloud of smoke, drove the car 1/2 mile & turned it off. Did it run OK, & was it still smoking when you got back from the mailbox? I'm beginning to wonder if the smoke & the engine crapping out are unrelated. The smoke being condensation & the engine being water in the gas. A bit of a stretch but possible if the engine ran OK when smoking.

Not loony at all. Water does settle at the bottom of the tank. The underground 100% gas tank could have a lot of condensation in it. Probably is not a big seller. Also pure gas, no alcohol. Not a chance of mixing the water with the gas. There are a number of alcohol based products avail. to rid your tank of water. Alcohol is one of the few solvents that will mix with water and petroleum. Most are less than $10.00. Or you could drain the tank either by siphoning or pulling the plug on the bottom. If it has a full tank, I'd siphon it. You won't waste the gas, you'll be able to see the water in the bottom & avoid it.

Jai Do you remember the smell or the feel of the smoke? Coolant being somewhat sweet and humid, oil being, well, oily & greasy smelling & feeling. Generally, a coolant cloud dissipates a lot faster than oil depending on the relative humidity & if the car is in a closed space. I was leaning toward water in the fuel but anytime I've experienced it, It only took a mile or two before it crapped out. Was the soot that came out of the tailpipe oily? Judging from the pics, it wasn't. On Wed. when the car was towed, was it parked uphill, downhill, level when it wouldn't start?

Was it always the same one? Might have been owned by someone in the cast or crew.

Jai, Did this latest gremlin arise shortly after refueling? If so. how far did you drive until RB started acting up?

I think that much fuel pressure, without a regulator, will soon over power the needles & seats filling the bowls to overflow. Keep in mind, those float bowls sit over the hot exhaust manifold. 4 psi should be the MAXIMUM pressure. IMO There is no maybe in getting #4 and all the others adjusted & burning properly. Honestly I would change direction temporarily and leave the carbs alone. Fix everything else and make sure it is right. These are things that you can do and should learn if you are able, however your mechanic should have taken care of that before tackling perfectly good carbs. I question whether your mech. is ignorant, incompetent, or milking you for money. Your choice.IMO, As long as he doesn't quite fix it, he gets paid for yet another attempt. The only way you will know is to try to find a better mechanic or learn to do it yourself. I doubt very much if you need a new pump. You could test it yourself & know for sure.

I don't know what it's called and as far as I know there is no replacement part available. If you found a donor chassis to cut that section out of, you'd be better off rebuilding the donor chassis. IMO, that boxed section is the stiffest portion of the whole chassis. Remove it and you'll open a Pandora's box. The body on that side will sag unless it's mounted on a chassis jig. Not worth the time & trouble.

Jai Stick your finger in the tail pipe & tell us how much carbon, if any, is in there. Doesn't have to be running.

The bent upper lip in their pic is bent to conform to the edge of the sheet metal in the rear hatch opening.The weather strip glues over the top of both of them. I doubt that the extra section of sheet metal would improve the sealing but the bent section of the panel does reinforce the lower hatch opening & it needs it. If you do fab your own (I did) I would include the upper & lower lips for strength. Just reread your post. Is the sheet metal on the bottom of the opening gone or just the cover?

Get rid of it? NO, NO, NO, Not yet. IMO I haven't seen one solid reason to give up on Redbird yet. Let's back the tow truck up for a little while. First is the cooling system losing coolant? Jai, A compression tester is avail. at Harbor Freight for $22.99. If you are able to remove spark plugs, you can use this tester by yourself. If $s are short, I'll send you mine. PM me. I'm a bit perplexed at the intermittent nature of this problem but I'm with Zedhead. Head gasket seems like a stretch & is easy to verify. I'd want to know what the problem is before I parted ways with her because I'd know in my heart that I hadn't given it my best shot. Regret is a bitter pill.

I don't remember having to do much twisting on four screw carbs. I've been told that three screw carbs require rotation to remove the tops. Unless there is considerable resistance, I doubt that the float setting will be changed. By removing the suction chamber and piston you can see the fuel level in the nozzle to double check the height. I have never used this method & I don't remember how far below the top of the nozzle the fuel is supposed to be. Anyone want to chime in and add some info?

IMO It's not necessary to separate the float bowl from the body unless it's leaking fuel from the connection.