inline6

Here are some pics. This has been stored inside for the last 30+ years. I epoxy primed and painted it black way back then, but never installed it on my car. The two mounting points at the center of the bumper have different thread sizes, but the threads are in good shape!

Still want/need this. Thanks.

Forgot about this. Let me get a pic today.

Aftermarket or original?

The original vapor barrier is very thin, transparent plastic. I bought a roll from Home Depot ages ago, something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-10-ft-x-100-ft-Clear-2-mil-Plastic-Sheeting-RS210-100C/202184044 For sticking it to the door, I really like this stuff: The plastic sticks to it, and it to the door, really well even in the heat of summer. If you have to open it up to get inside the door, you will have to make a new plastic sheet, as it will not pull away from this product without damaging the plastic. It is an easy job, so no big deal.

The kit number I purchased was A-16-104. I also managed to purchase another kit later which had the wafers for the ignition. It was the A-16-100. Be careful when shopping on ebay for old kits. Some are less than complete - missing some of the original parts. The wafers are all you need to rekey the locks, but some of this kits came with nice additional pieces like lock faces and new rubber gaskets. Kits I bought... second pic is the 104. Third pic is the 100. Garrett

Yes, that. I use the term undercoat generically and mean just that it is a coating (from the factory) under the car :)

I find the restoration on the car to be stunning. And so much metal work went into this one, and for a CA car at that. A few details that I am most impressed by is: the color of the plating of the engine parts... the plating on the car I restored and many restored cars is not the right shade. And the texture of the sound insulation pads on the fire wall - the early cars have a less than smooth texture of the asphalt based black surface of the pads. Also, the carpets look bespoke to me. I looked long and hard for a heal mat that looked like the factory one and could find nothing. And the carpet type (loop) of the carpets in this car is different than anything I have been able to find. Lastly, the "undercoating" which is sprayed to the bottom of the car is very similar to the original. It is not quite as black as the original, but looks to have a very similar texture/finish. The overspray of the paint on that "undercoat" is very much like the factory. The only thing I can find thus far that seems off from factory is the "black out" paint used in areas like the radiator support, the seat mounts, and the body just behind the quarter windows is gloss black on this car when it was flat black from the factory. Seriously impressive.

I heard back from Junkyard Jenny's. They only have four speed ones at well.

I'll consider a junk 5 speed transmission at this point, if nearby to me in Marietta, GA. Got one with something broken inside? Just looking for 5 speeds for now. Will open up to 4 speeds later if I can't get a five speed. Thanks for considering helping me out!

I believe I have a rear bumper over rider bar that is in good condition. I can get some pics if you want. For the bumper, what is the month of manufacturer of our car?

So, my concern is that I haven't been able to determine if the Klassic Fab rear frame rails have this little angle bend at about 4 inches before the front edge of the floor panel (see the first two pictures below). The floor panel has a bend in it there. And the frame rail follows the angle - the flanges are not perfectly flat from the rearmost point of the frame rail all the way to the front edge of the floor panel. Anyway, I'd like to know if the Klassic fab rear rails have this same contour. It isn't the end of the world if they don't but I'd rather same myself the time and effort of modification if possible. My factory rails are pretty bent up. The damage has pretty much been there since I bought the car in 1993. It will be nice to finally address the floor issues this car has and get some sound insulation and paint on both sides. When this car was operational, it was such a pain to have to wipe down the bottom of it whenever I got caught in the rain!

I'm going to address issues with my "track" car's frame rails (rear half). The floor of my track car has been bare metal for more than a decade (after I sand blasted it to remove surface rust), and the rear portions of the frame rails are bent/crushed as well as have some places where they rusted a lot. I think Klassic Fab parts have a good reputation for fitting well, however, I am interested to see how well the rear frame rails fit. I searched here and the wider web, and couldn't find any one who took pics of their efforts to replace the factory ones with KF ones. Anyone have any pics? There is a slight bend in the floor that I don't see in the replacement rails (viewing the pictures of them I can find online). I am going to take some pictures today of the rails on my car and will share them here a bit later.

@tadslc Just curious how much the set of four plus shipping ended up being. I have a set of two 16 X 7 with zero offset (same sizing as I put on my recently restored Z) in a classified add on the site and am trying to value them accurately. Garrett

Here they are - looks like my cowl panel is missing one of the end ones. It is just a square rubber cap.

Hi Charles, I have a 71-73 510 glove box. Also, I think I may be able to at least get you pictures of the original cowl "clips". Garrett

Unsure if the is accurate info, but I think I recall seeing that the transmissions with two ears at the back were the 79-80 boxes and the 81-83 only had one: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64504-fs5w71b-transmission-identification-close-ratio-vs-wide-ratio-with-pictures/?_rid=2858 Ratios I put into a spreadsheet a long time ago:

Yes, thanks Chaz!

Interesting mod to grind the shift rod instead of relocating the reverse switch. I like that instead of moving the reverse switch location on the housing. Looks like I have all I need except for the front housing. I'll just need one of those, and to have it machined by someone. Thanks for the info.

I had Troy Ermish do my last one, but I got that as part of a deal when he bought an R-180 4.38 ratio open differential from me. Google AI (Gemini, I believe) spat this out for me. Do you have another option I should consider? Several specialized shops and companies offer machining services for Nissan 240SX (S-chassis) bell housings, primarily for adapting different engines to the FS5W71C 5-speed transmission or for upgrading to stronger transmission options. Specialized Machining & Swap Services Godzilla Raceworks: Offers modified L-series (FS5W71B) bell housings to mate with KA24 240SX (FS5W71C) 5-speed transmissions, typically priced around $300 on an exchange basis. Alpha Omega Racing: Provides a gearbox bell housing machining service that involves CNC machining the front and rear faces for proper clearance, usually requiring the customer to send in their bell housing. Troy Ermish Racing (Fremont, CA): Known for L-engine bell housing work, including machining for the front counter bearing and shifter linkage hole to fit 240SX transmissions. Collins Performance Technologies: Specializes in adapter kits for connecting different engines (like 2JZ/1JZ) to Nissan 350Z/370Z (CD009) transmissions, which are popular in 240SX swaps. Driftmotion: Offers R154 transmission conversions and, for high-power applications (500whp+), provides upgraded components, including billet shift forks. What the Machining Involves L-Series to KA/SR Swap: Modifications typically include enlarging the counter shaft bearing hole and the shift fork rod hole, as well as clearing material for the larger, stronger 'C' spec transmission. Precise Tolerances: Proper machining is required for the front counter bearing, sometimes involving replacing the front counter bearing with a specific size. Cleaning Requirement: Shops usually require the bell housing to be completely stripped, cleaned, and free of grease before machining, often charging a cleaning fee if not done properly.

In my case, a seller on eBay that is located in Dubai.

I wish I had known about the bearings. I just purchased one earlier today from Dubai... which will be hit with tariffs. I hope it won't be to bad - I think 30% or so.

I saw that - great price too! After some research, I think the one you have there is for a later version of the transmission. Mine seems to be this style, that has a groove for the shift fork to operate it: Notice that the one I highlighted earlier and the one on the left I pointed to with the red arrow are "32245": The part number in my transmission for the reverse gear is apparently 32245-55S05 which was replaced by 32245-55S20.

Skip to 5:33 in this video - supposedly, this transmission came from a car that was crashed tested by https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insurance_Institute_for_Highway_Safety I tried all the gears, and it spins very well. All the gears and synchros look very good except... there are a two of teeth on the reverse gear which, after polishing, have some slight pitting from rusting. Similarly, there are a couple of cogs on the rear/overdrive hub/synchronizer which have some light rust pitting after polishing. I don't think it will be a problem now that I have polished the areas with a Dremel and stainless steel brush to clean away the oxidization. However, I am going to have to replace the center shift rod. Apparently it is chrome plated (as are all the shift rods) and it suffered from some corrosion from moisture at it's rearmost portion - the chrome plating is damaged. Luckily, there are a few for sale on Ebay which appear to be in good condition. So, these parts were effected by some moisture that apparently got in through the stick shift openin, but I think I will only need to replace the rear most bearing and the center shift rod.

I think I scored with the purchase of a 240sx transmission. When talking to the salvage yard, they said the transmission came from a crash test car and it had 28 miles on it. Well... I was quite dubious, but they only wanted $100 more for it than one with 77,000 miles. So, I bought it. This one will go in my 12/70 "track day" 240z. Yesterday, I took the gear assembly out of the front and rear housings. The clutch release bearing sleeve has no visible wear marks and is packed with clean grease. The same grease is present at the clutch fork pivot. And, the reverse idler gear in this transmission which I have typically seen is chewed up on one side in used transmissions, looks like new (see the third pic)! Unfortunately, it has some specs of rust in a few places. There is one badly rusted spot on the main shaft under the speedometer drive gear (third pic) on about 1/2 of the surface on the diameter there. But, having looked it over pretty good, I think this will be a great transmission for the car. I don't need to use the speedometer drive gear because the car will now be equipped with a GPS triggered Speed Hut speedometer. I think I will just need to replace the rear most bearing (due to some light corrosion there), and give the gear set a thorough cleaning, and it will be good to go!