Carl Beck

Hi Kats: Very interesting information, thanks for bringing it to us. "JATCO" Japan Automatic Transmission Company - was a joint venture with the Ford Motor Company. The A/T's were just smaller copies of Ford's A/T at the time. (Ford was a major investor in Madza at the time as I recall} There were no orders for the V8 from the US - in part because of the Fuel Shortages here in the US, caused by the "oil embargo" and the ever tightening EPA emissions standards. The fuel shortage brought with it the National 55mph Speed Limit. However even after the fuel shortage had passed - I guess people here valued clean air and water, more than they valued performance. So the US Emissions standards continued to get ever more strict. It took the auto manufacturers more than a couple decades to figure out how to have both low emissions and performance - all with better fuel economy. FWIW, Carl

Hi Kats: OK - - - Mr. Matsuo wrote in his part of the Farilady Z Story - that the original design based on a 4 cylinder / roadster chassis - had to be made wider to fit an A/T in - - -However there is a lot of extra room left there, compared to most production cars. So with the hint of "size and shape" and knowing that Mr. Matsuo wanted to see the Z get a V8 at some future point… I'll have to go with "C" leaving room for the Nissan V8. Whatever the answer - it left a lot of room for SBC's. Carl B.

Hi Kats: Thanks for sharing the new information you have found. Very interesting - now we might have a better idea of what cars we are seeing in some of the Crash Safety Tests as well. I believe it was you that Posted the following Image here some time ago. Do you know yet - how to order a copy of the book on line? thanks, Carl B.

Hi Dennis: Wood grain and color are very close. The finish is smoother, more highly polished on the original. The shape is pretty much the same - only with a slightly small diameter on the repro.. The original 5spd. knob is a little larger diameter than most of the early 4spd.knobs. If I had to guess, I'd guess they used an early 4spd. knob as the example/model. The size difference really isn't much - but of course your hand/fingers can feel it. Carl

Hi Dennis: It arrived a week or go ago. My comments were based on looking at it when writing. As someone else said earlier - most people wouldn't notice it as not being original. Another very nice member here gave me an original - and have to admit that I didn't like leaving it in the BRE Z at shows, when left unattended. Thus my comment about the possibility of someone stealing it. Believe it or not, Mr. Brock gave me a BRE Key Fob/ring for the Z when we were at Amelia Island. I made the mistake of leaving it in the car at another event a few months later - and someone stole it. They were kind enough to leave the ignition key on the seat. {I didn't take the ignition key - as you can't start the car without the key to kill switch, which I always put in my pocket. I also carry a spare kill switch key in the tow truck}. As they say; "there is always one". FWIW Carl B.

The 5spd. emblem on the reproduction is flat on top - the originals were rounded - spherical in shape. The font is OK - but the spacing and color are wrong. The emblem on the original uses a creamy white - almost very light gray - the repro is bright white The repro is a bit smaller in diameter as is the emblem itself. I would say "the chrome piece on the bottom of the original" is missing completely on the repro.{that could be fixed using an older 4spd.knob base}. Nonetheless for $95.00 if someone steals it - you won't have lost an original. Yes - I bought one.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Z fan: That is helpful - and he should be able to find what he's looking for. One just can't be in a hurry. Really well done and ready to drive 240Z's don't come up for sale on the open market too often. Many times the best cars change hands privately. Club members that know other club members who have nice cars - often buy them as soon as the owner mentions a desire or willingness to sell. So if he is anywhere near a Local Club - always good to get to know some or the other members. good luck, Carl B.

Hi Z Fan: Maybe if we knew a little more about the specific things that interest your step-son; about this Z or any others, we could offer better perspectives/advice. For example, does he just like the looks of it - or does he have more interests in the engine/power etc.. Maybe it is just close to him. Does he want a car that he can work on himself or does he want a finished car ready to drive/enjoy? FWIW, Carl B.

OK - so I'm seeing a top surface color change, blacked out under the hood and pretty much a untouched undercarriage. Not seeing all new bushings etc. That and a souped up engine… I'm not seeing anything close to a $20K 240Z. Would anyone put a $12K racing engine - in an engine bay that looks like that? Wouldn't you at least replace the passenger pull handle, and rechrome the driver side door panel? If your going to pull the engine and repaint the whole car - wouldn't you have rebuilt and repainted the suspensions bits/pieces. No - I'm not seeing anything close to $20K.. Not saying it is a bad car - just way over priced. FWIW, Carl B.

It will be a minus factor to people looking for a clean early Z - but HybridZ's done in a professional manor sell easily for far more money… More than the person spent doing it? Maybe not. But the market values for a clean early Z {#3 Condition" might be in the $13K to $15K range right now - and the well done HybridZ might sell for $18K to $25K or more..{all depends on the car of course}. WE have seen some shoddy V8 swaps lately not bring $12K…in those cases it would have been better to leave the car alone. FWIW, Carl B.

Do Quality Work - no matter if it's Stock, Street Mod or HybridZ. We all know the difference between "Quality Work" and "Half-Fast" work when we see it. Do it right the first time - or leave it alone. Go "Mild" not "Wild" - A really well done HybridZ. with a beautiful Corvette V8 and fantastic drive train etc - - can have its value to others destroyed when the owner paints it some horrendous wild Color - or has Skills and Big Boob air brushed on the hood etc. Want to increase Value - start from a lower beginning point. Control your spending to begin with. Just because you got in a hurry and paid too much, or did too much keep - in mind you won't recover most of it. I'm sure there are more "rules of thumb"… FWIW, Carl B.

HLS30 136078 is also 11/72 So - given that it is a "Street Mod" - with some issues or Red Flags. It would take a knowledgeable 240Z enthusiast to do a personal inspection. As mentioned - no pictures of the underside..blacked out engine compartment etc Reasonable offers if it checks out that the body/sheetmetal is good etc - - - what $12K to $14K? If one really loves the color and the modifications? I think they will have a hard time finding a buyer - it was on EBay last March as well. From St.Cloud, FL - now in San Luis Obispo, California. FWIW, Carl B.

72 E88 - milled a few thousands to make sure it is straight/flat and increase compression slightly.. L28 valves/seats Mild Port Matching {no need for polishing} Use the 72 exhaust manifold {headers only add heat/noise unless you do significant rework on the head, add cam's and free flowing exhaust - for that matter the free flowing exhaust will add more than the header}. Diseard's Cam 70-72 SU's fine tuned [you can pick up about 3HP if you leave the air filer and cover off for track events} Electronic Ignition with good wires Most "stock" but good running L24's in the 240Z's will put down around 120HP at the rear wheels. So do a chassis dyno run before you start changing things. Then do another run after - that's the only way you will know if it was money well spent. Yes, 15HP at the rear wheels should be possible if the engine is property tuned.. FWIW, Carl Oh.. BTW - if you change cam's and timing chain - make sure the cam timing is dialed in correctly. If you are having a shop do the work - ask to watch that process being done.

If that Z only brought bids of $17K - that doesn't help push 240Z values up much. Even with the flaws that Mike pointed out - that would be a pretty nice Z for $17K. But with the flaws - it isn't a $25K car either. You would have to pull the windshield and correct that paint… maybe get the original glass and seals as well. FWIW, Carl B.

Same Slave? {looks new}

Works for me. Carl B.

djwarner: I checked the law here in Florida about 12 years ago - the law requires that you have a Police Officer or FL HWP Officer present when you remove a dash with the VIN attached - in order to replace the dash. Then they have to be present as you transfer the VIN tag and reinstall the replacement dash. No one actually does that of course - but it is the law here. If Florida issues a Rebuilt Title - they too use the serial or chassis number of the car {Not the entire VIN} - then they create a new VIN Tag to be affixed to the car - it will Begin with FLA- followed by the numbers. Just FYI Carl

Hi SueZee: Sounds like your husband is taking pretty good care of you. Is this your or your husband's first Z? People usually don't start out going to coil-overs and big brakes right off the bat. Do you plan to use this for any type of competition - auto-X or local track days? Do keep us posted.. Carl B.

If you feel the steering arm - where it wraps around the ball joint - you should feel an area where the metal is not as round. You take a heavy hammer - and you smack that more flat spot - like you mean it. It will release the ball joint. Don't let fear stop you - HIT IT HARD. I usually use a large Brass Hammer - they don't kick back and they deliver more force to the object being hit. If you use a large heavy steel hammer just keep your face out of the way. BTW - any time you have to hammer on a treaded fastener - you leave a nut on it, so the nut is a couple threads above the end - to protect the threads. Good luck, Carl B.

Hi Hwyman456: Looks like a really GREAT Barn Find!! I would have grabbed that in a heart beat!! Great bodies are so hard to find today. As these cars are just now starting to regain market values {after the financial melt down 6 years ago}. Their future as Classic's is looking ever brighter. Personally - I'd pull that engine back out - and put the engine bay and the car - back to its original Orange {or any original 71 color}. But as we say "to each his own". It will be very helpful if you can find someone in your area - willing to come help from time to time - to put that puzzle back together. I'm sure you can do it by yourself - but a knowledgeable Z Friend could save you a lot of time.. No matter what - chances are you will love that 240Z! Good luck, Carl B.

I've been using DOT 5 for more than 30 years in all my 240Z's. The last brake master cylinder in the Blue 72 {I'm the original owner}, lasted more than 20 years. The car still has the original rear wheel cylinders. DOT 5 preserves the rubber seals - and it doesn't absorb moisture - so it all but prevents the usual corrosion you seen in the wheel cylinders and master cylinders. DOT can be hard to bleed - but not so much if you don't get air bubbles in it to begin with - Don't pour DOT 5 out of the can and into an existing pool of DOT 5, or an empty reservoir. That is how you get air bubbles to begin with. - I use a "V" shaped piece of metal a little longer than a butter knife - and I poor the fluid out of the can directly onto that - and let it run into the Brake/Clutch master cylinder reservoirs. Sound like the guy that owned the car - knew what he was doing. The only time you don't want to use DOT 5 - is for competition/racing. If you overheat DOT 5 - it becomes compressible and you get sudden brake fade.. If you are not melting the wheel bearing grease - you won't have any problems with the DOT 5, once you get the system bleed. FWIW, Carl B.

The number of drivers - operating a car illegally has increased over the years. No Drivers License, No Insurance, Drunk or otherwise impaired, Not driving cars they own etc. So when something happens - they run. Sorry it happened to you.. Carl B.

Thanks Steve..

Hi Steve: $10K "might" be a little low in todays market - we would have to see it in person. Nonetheless, I agree - poorly presented - and with 260Z Door Panels, nonstick radio and Green showing behind the rear deck carpet… you have to wonder… It would be encouraging to see values get back to where they were 6 years ago.. If the did more people might be encouraged to put a little more effort and money into refreshing and or restoring them. FWIW, Carl B.

If I were looking for a 240Z - Chet's Red Z would be one I would buy. You can bet everything is done right to begin with - that is the only way he works. Chet is a principle in Sunbelt Performance - and they rebuilt my original BRE Engine - I wouldn't have trusted anyone else. Datsun Z Series 240Z | eBay FWIW, Carl B.