Carl Beck

Hi Marty: The rear end was set back 35mm or 1.37 inch for the Series III cars (1972 Model Year). If you set your rear end back, or if you install an R200 you'll need the longer drive shaft. You may be getting a clunk where you had none before - because that L28 is a huge increase in low end torque... Check the torque on the bolts, that are on the studs that mount the rear end to the mustache bar. The re-torque the nuts that mount the mustache bar to the subframe. If either of these are slightly loose.. you'll hear the rear end move... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark: I am "older" and I still can't relate much to it!! I look in the mirror and wonder "what the hell happened?" "Where did all this loose skin on my face and neck come from?".... then I look at lower parts of my body and I have an idea of where it came from ;-) It's a small world.... Way off topic, but this seems to be an underlying decision driver.... so I'll add some more personal data - that will most likely be of interest only to you... My father died when I was 11 and he was 48, his brother had passed away at 38... his mother was 49... Actually no one in my family lived past the age of 55 (going back to 1303).... until my older brother made it to 60!! (and died from a heart attack the following month) A new record in the "Beck" family!! All died of coronary or cardiovascular problems... I am now the Record Holder... 61!! So I understand your thinking and feelings on this matter... I retired at 55 thinking that I would be lucky to make it to 60. I can only say that life has a way of working out almost always - at odds with the best of our plans... I'm still here only because of the miracles of modern medicine. Just take good care of your health - or make sure you get good health care. Actually the best advice is to do both. As someone else said; "if I knew I would live this long, I'd have taken better care of this body!" As Mr. K say's at age 96... "Enjoy The Ride" You and I know he isn't referring to the car... regards, Carl B.

For 70/71 240-Z KONI Adjustable Front Shock Absorbers #35-1410 (BRE Part Number)....$43.00 ea KONI Adjustable Rear Shock Absorbers #35-1411 As of 2-1-72 no KONI's were yet available for the 72 Model Year. FACTORY 240-Z Racing Suspension Kit #35-1510 Special struts, springs shocks, front and rear anti-roll bars combine to turn your 240-Z into a real handler. Factory designed for minimum installation effort. $552.10 for the kit FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark: I hate to tell you, but you'll be saying the same thing at 50 and 60.... Mentally, you don't grow old, you mature and retain the solid values your life's experiences have forged. For the most part you'll still lust after the same things you did when you were 35 or 40.... The sad part is that many of those "things" won't go out with men that look like their Grandfather (unless a great deal of money changes hands:-). If you had told me when I was 45 - that I'd be re-married and having kids again at 50 - I'd have told you that you were nuts!!... Thank God we don't get what we ask for... Now in addition to a son 36, a second son 33, I have a daughter 12 years old and the most wonderful wife any man could ask for. You will find that the time between 40 and 50 years of age - shoots by before you know it. That however is nothing compared to the time flying by at hyper-speed, between 50 and 60 years of age. Ah to be a kid at 40 again.... and know what I know now.... BTW - cdavid is right - it sounds like Burt - cdavid's advice is solid... ignore Burt. If anything, pity him, he must have a very sad existence. Also, just FYI - his car with 14K miles was a Series II example not a Series I. kind regards, Carl B.

I installed a 4.11 in the early 70's when I was running an L24... and auto-crossing on the weekends. Around 1980 I swapped in an L28 with the 5spd.... Given the far greater torque of the L28... I'd rather have the 3.9 or even the 3.7... the L28 has the torque to easily pull the taller gears... Your better option for a "daily ride" would be the 3.9... For performance it depends on how strong your engine is at lower RPM's... Carl B.

Hi Bob/ mmagnus: My unsolicited comments: Bob: 1. The difference between 50 and 60 is the fact that some of your most beloved toys don't work like they used to..<vbg>. mmagnus: 2. I like the process of rebuilding, refreshing and/or restoring 240-Z's. I can understand why one would sell a car once it's completed... It's time to get something else to work on. 3. In the picture below.. of the V12 Jag, the V12 Ferrari and the 240-Z - which one stayed while the others were sold...? I had my Ferrari and I hope you get to have yours... but I'd respectfully suggest that you hang on to your Z for at least a year after your 911 or Ferrari.... then decide which to keep. From personal experience, I know that I can rationalize almost anything I want - I'd suggest that you finance the 911 or Ferrari fully, for at least the first year, so you can keep your Z. Then at the end of that year - decide which to resell. You'll have 12 payments at a higher rate... and if you decide to sell the Z it will be worth more next year anyway - and you can pay down the loan on the 911/Ferrari at that point if you decide to keep the new car... I'm betting you'll keep the Z at the end of that first year. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Dean: Clearwater is just South of Tarpon Springs.. a few miles.. give me a call and I'll tell you how to get here...I know a little bit about the 240-Z's.. be glad to help if I can. Carl B. 727-535-0384

Hi Dean: As mentioned - Radiator Hoses and Heater Hoses that will hold up on short trips around town,and which "appear to be fine"... will blow out on longer, higher speed runs. (this is the most common highway failure on less than well cared for 240-Z's in my experience). If a heater hose blows, you can usually cut it and loop the outlet back to the inlet at the block; but it's a good idea to carry a few feet of new hose with you. .... and most important some spare water (take a couple of gallons of fresh drinking water, and if you don't need it for the car you can drink it later.) The hose always blow out 20 miles from the next freeway exit.. I'd change the upper and lower radiator hoses before leaving on the trip..they are cheap and easy to change in the driveway... far easier than risking your life on the side of the road. Check all the rubber fuel lines for splits/cracks.. and change them if you have any question about them. Twist and turn them, check them carefully and completely. Matter of fact, I'd change them all anyway before leaving. (there are only about four of them under the hood)... The one's under the rear at the tank - don't get the heat from the engine and seem to last longer - but if you can get under the rear - I'd check the fuel line between the tank and the hard lines - feed and return side. Carry a couple new fuel filters... running tanks full of fresh gas through the system can dislodge junk in the tank, that wouldn't be bothered on short trips around town.. and it doesn't take much to clog up a fuel filter..(again cheap, small and easy to carry - and always useful later) As mentioned... drive the car with the headlights on for 20 to 30 minutes.. feel the headlight fuses to see if they are heating up... If they get hot to the touch, you may need to drive during daylight hours and address that problem later.. Check the wiper motor and wiper blades... and change the blades before the trip. Pull the spare tire OUT and check it over carefully, then inflate to 36Lbs. If the car has "mag" wheels make sure you have OEM stock lug nuts for the spare and the right size socket for the mag wheel lugs... make sure you have the jack for the car where it's supposed to be. Needless to say - check the tires for tread separation and sidewall cracking etc. Make sure the car runs smoothly at 65-70 mph... you don't want to fight a shaking steering wheel for 1200 miles... Some 72 240-Z's have been equipped with electric fuel pumps - by previous owners.. on longer trips old one's can fail... if you have only the mechanical fuel pump - I'd buy and carry a spare. (you can always use it later and it's easy to change on the road if necessary). Normally, if a 240-Z runs well on short trips around town - mechanically it will run back and forth across the country... so major engine or driveline problems are few and far between. It's the normal wear items that have been neglected that fail when subjected to the stress of prolonged higher speed trips... good luck, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

See: <a href=http://zhome.com/History/BlackP.htm TARGET=NEW> Black Pearl on the Z Car Home Page </a> FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

How about a nice set of HAYASHI RACING wheels? Now here is something you don't see every day. FWIW, Carl B.

#65049 here

Well... there is "rebuild" and then there is "rebuilt"... As suggested, if you simply need to take them apart, clean and adjust them.. then replace the seals and fuel line between the carb and float bowl... ie "rebuild" them... then yes.. get the video and the kit... On the other hand - if the throttle shafts are worn, and leaking - as well as being sloppy, . . . thus all but impossible to tune them out... You may have to buy a REBUILT set from Z-Therapy. In that case you also get re-plated Cad parts along with the new throttle shaft bushings etc... There is a primary reason that Z Therapy exists.. and that is because by now most sets of the Z SU's need new throttle shafts and bushings.. Nonetheless, get their video... and start there... FWIW, Carl B.

and Hi webdawg1 (everyone): Based on the fact that Dan S - specified the threaded end of his lock pin as being the "top"... and because he ask of the pin was removed from bottom up and out - - - or top (threaded end) down... I get the distinct impression that his lock pin was installed with the threaded end - up - toward the car body. In that case he would NOT drive the pin "...upwards from the bottom up" as you suggest. From your follow-on replies.. I get the impression that you have it fixed in your mind that all lock pins are always installed with the treaded end down.. toward the road. That has most certainly not been my experience - and based on Dan S's question it would seem to not be the case on his car. If the treaded end is considered to be the top of the lock pin: 1. The pin - is wider at the bottom than the top 2. You would drive it out by applying pressure to the top of the pin 3. If you leave the nut even with the top of the treads - you can safely smack the nut with a brass hammer to dislodge the pin. That is simply a little easier than trying to align a drift with only the threaded end. I'm pretty sure that Dan S understood what I was saying, so I'm sure the pin will come out. I didn't feel that I was contradicting your input - so much as trying to make it clear to Dan S in his terms... and based on his input...... I did say "based on how you (Dan S) ask the question". Sorry for any confusion.. Carl B.

Hi Gary: I purchased the puller from the source here on the forum and as I understand it - everything is high strength/hardened steel .. and yes that included the thrust bearing. FWIW, Carl B.

Most of the time.... Hi Gary: I had tightened the large nut on the spindle pin puller down... pretty tight.. and the pin didn't move. A friend with more arm power than me... cranked the nut down on the spindle pin puller - until the nut stripped!!.. Spindle pin didn't move... Took the assembly (strut still connected to the lower transverse link)... to the shop and subjected it to 25 Ton's of pressing force... Spindle pin didn't move.... Applied HEAT... to the entire length of the spindle pin... LOTS OF HEAT... put it back in the Press.. and it finally pressed out... Lesson Learned... if the spindle pin puller won't pull it out with "reasonable force" applied to the nut... stop.. apply LOTS OF HEAT... Others that I have done, simply pulled out with no problems... FWIW, Carl B.

Whoa... I think webdawg1 stated that wrong.. based on how you ask the question. As you can see from the pictures webdawg1 provided.... the lock pin is wider at the bottom - SO you drive the pin - top (threaded end) down..and out the bottom. Leave the nut screwed even with the end of the threads to protect them.. smack swiftly with a brass hammer.. remove the nut... and use a brass drift to pound it the rest of the way out (if it doesn't fall out once it gets started) FWIW, Carl

The "L" is not part of the VIN on ZX - but it is part of the "Model Number" listed on the Model Identification Plate.... on some of the ZX's it's under the hood on the cowl or innerfender... ie... HLS130 (J) (F)(A) (T) (U)(V)(N) or KHLS130....or HLGS130 K= T-Bar Roof H= 2.8L FI engine L= Left Hand Drive G = 2+2 J=GL Package I believe F=5 spd A=A/T T=Turbo U=Federal Standard V=California Standard N=Canada Standard I have not seen a break-down of the Right Hand Drive vs Left Hand Drive total production numbers. FWIW, Carl B.

Did the ZX's not have a color code sticker under the hood? If you knew the model type (GL or not) and the original color, you would be able to determine the interior color, as well as what was standard equipment (yes/no?) Carl B.

Vehicle Identification or Vehicle Model Identification data plate, under the hood... If you have one there... Carl B.

I'm sure you and your wife will enjoy both the Z Car and the Z Car Community. It's always good to hear that people who have always wanted a Z / ZX have finally got one. You might want to order a copy of Brian Long's book - Datsun/Nissan 280/300 ZX. Amazon.com should have it in stock.. ISBN: 1-901295-06-0 regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

You may find a "Model Identification Data Plate" on your ZX under the hood... that will provide some farther information related to what specific model it is and thus what was standard equipment etc. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dan: Oops.... had you listed, but neglected to move the "Last Series I" marker in the spread sheet....da.... Glad you caught that... I had a note there to check/verify if 240Ztt's Z was a Series I or II car... HLS30 020425. I'll have to PM him/her. kind regards, Carl

Hi Steven: We didn't forget... we just try to ignore the fact that our friends in Australia continued to run leaded fuels and drive dirty emissions vehicle for years after we attempted to set a high standard for purity here in the US. { just kidding of course...} regards, Carl B. BTW - I see that we can celebrate our birthdays together...

For the US and Canada: Series I Datsun 240-Z's were produced in calendar years 1969, 1970 and 1971. Series I Datsun 240-Z's were sold, and titles were issued as "Model Year" 1969, 1970 and 1971. Prior to March of 1971 Automobile Titles were defined by State Laws in all 50 States. Thus the recorded "Model Year" was simply reported by the selling Dealer, when they requested that a State Automobile Title be issued, based on presenting the Manufacturer's Statement of Origin (MSO). Because the Series I Datsun 240-Z meet all U.S. Federal Government Requirements for calendar year 1969, 1970 and Pre-March 1971, the Authorized Datsun Dealers could sell and title them as any of the three. Nissan Called the Series II 240-Z's the "Late Model Year 1971" Series II Datsun 240-Z's were produced in calendar year 1971 and were sold and titled as "Model Year" 1971 only (here in America at least) Because the U.S. Federal Government increased and/or changed both Emissions and Safety Standards for cars produced prior to certain dates with calendar years 1971, 72, 73 - and because Nissan Motors implemented the required changes in compliance with the required dates - year by year... the "Late Model Year 1971" {Series II}, 1972 {Series III} and 1973 {Series IV} cars could only be legally sold/titled as those "Model Years" per Federal Law. Series I Datsun 240-Z's sold in the USA and Canada were produced between Oct. 1969 and Jan. 1971. Regular Production cars - HLS30-00016 though HLS30 020390 have been recorded so far. Series II Datsun 240-Z's sold in the USA and Canada were produced between Jan. 1971 and Sept. 1971. Regular Production cars HLS30 21477 though HLS30 046520 have been recorded so far as being Series II cars. Series III Datsun 240-Z's were produced between Sept. 1971 and Aug. 1972. Regular Production cars HLS30 046636 though HLS30 100262 have been recorded so far. Series IV Datsun 240-Z's sold in the USA and Canada were produced between Aug. 1972 and Aug. 1973. Regular Production cars HLS30 120031 though HLS30 172767 have been recorded so far. Interest Note: 260Z - RLS30 00020 was built in July of 1973, a month before production of the 240-Z's ended. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Roger: Setting aside all the excellent rational for the differing perspectives as to just what the word "best" means; when the context is not specific enough, or which specific cases one can consider; ... if we take your question to mean which model year 240-Z, as delivered from the factory, represented Nissan's Best Effort to deliver a 240-Z that meet their Customers' Requirements/Desires and was as free from defects or troubles as possible... then I believe the answer is most certainly the 1972 Model Year. As many have mentioned - by the 1972 Model Year Nissan had made many improvements to the 240-Z, based in large part on experience and feedback from their Dealers...who used to listen carefully to their Customers and report that feedback to Nissan Motors USA (at least here in America) To a lesser extent "issues" already known to the Nissan Engineers were also addressed in the 72 Model Year. I know this to be a fact, because I was both a Salesman and New Car Sales Manager for a Datsun Dealer in 72/73. Why Different Than 71? The long list of improvements made for the 72. Why Different Than 73? The Federal Emissions and Safety Standards for 73 - which had little or nothing to do with what the Customers "wanted". No question in my mind that "Stock" for "Stock" the 72 240-Z was the "Best of Breed" for the new car buyers. It would also be my first choice for any stock 240-Z that I wanted to drive across the State or across the Country. Start making modifications or taking exceptions to "stock" .. and all bets are off... Just my "opinion" based on owning and driving them all for the past 36 years, for what its worth. The "best" 240-Z that you can find today - is the one that is closest to original, stock with the most rust free body!! Carl B.