Carl Beck

Hi Dean: Clearwater is just South of Tarpon Springs.. a few miles.. give me a call and I'll tell you how to get here...I know a little bit about the 240-Z's.. be glad to help if I can. Carl B. 727-535-0384

Hi Dean: As mentioned - Radiator Hoses and Heater Hoses that will hold up on short trips around town,and which "appear to be fine"... will blow out on longer, higher speed runs. (this is the most common highway failure on less than well cared for 240-Z's in my experience). If a heater hose blows, you can usually cut it and loop the outlet back to the inlet at the block; but it's a good idea to carry a few feet of new hose with you. .... and most important some spare water (take a couple of gallons of fresh drinking water, and if you don't need it for the car you can drink it later.) The hose always blow out 20 miles from the next freeway exit.. I'd change the upper and lower radiator hoses before leaving on the trip..they are cheap and easy to change in the driveway... far easier than risking your life on the side of the road. Check all the rubber fuel lines for splits/cracks.. and change them if you have any question about them. Twist and turn them, check them carefully and completely. Matter of fact, I'd change them all anyway before leaving. (there are only about four of them under the hood)... The one's under the rear at the tank - don't get the heat from the engine and seem to last longer - but if you can get under the rear - I'd check the fuel line between the tank and the hard lines - feed and return side. Carry a couple new fuel filters... running tanks full of fresh gas through the system can dislodge junk in the tank, that wouldn't be bothered on short trips around town.. and it doesn't take much to clog up a fuel filter..(again cheap, small and easy to carry - and always useful later) As mentioned... drive the car with the headlights on for 20 to 30 minutes.. feel the headlight fuses to see if they are heating up... If they get hot to the touch, you may need to drive during daylight hours and address that problem later.. Check the wiper motor and wiper blades... and change the blades before the trip. Pull the spare tire OUT and check it over carefully, then inflate to 36Lbs. If the car has "mag" wheels make sure you have OEM stock lug nuts for the spare and the right size socket for the mag wheel lugs... make sure you have the jack for the car where it's supposed to be. Needless to say - check the tires for tread separation and sidewall cracking etc. Make sure the car runs smoothly at 65-70 mph... you don't want to fight a shaking steering wheel for 1200 miles... Some 72 240-Z's have been equipped with electric fuel pumps - by previous owners.. on longer trips old one's can fail... if you have only the mechanical fuel pump - I'd buy and carry a spare. (you can always use it later and it's easy to change on the road if necessary). Normally, if a 240-Z runs well on short trips around town - mechanically it will run back and forth across the country... so major engine or driveline problems are few and far between. It's the normal wear items that have been neglected that fail when subjected to the stress of prolonged higher speed trips... good luck, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

See: <a href=http://zhome.com/History/BlackP.htm TARGET=NEW> Black Pearl on the Z Car Home Page </a> FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

How about a nice set of HAYASHI RACING wheels? Now here is something you don't see every day. FWIW, Carl B.

#65049 here

Well... there is "rebuild" and then there is "rebuilt"... As suggested, if you simply need to take them apart, clean and adjust them.. then replace the seals and fuel line between the carb and float bowl... ie "rebuild" them... then yes.. get the video and the kit... On the other hand - if the throttle shafts are worn, and leaking - as well as being sloppy, . . . thus all but impossible to tune them out... You may have to buy a REBUILT set from Z-Therapy. In that case you also get re-plated Cad parts along with the new throttle shaft bushings etc... There is a primary reason that Z Therapy exists.. and that is because by now most sets of the Z SU's need new throttle shafts and bushings.. Nonetheless, get their video... and start there... FWIW, Carl B.

and Hi webdawg1 (everyone): Based on the fact that Dan S - specified the threaded end of his lock pin as being the "top"... and because he ask of the pin was removed from bottom up and out - - - or top (threaded end) down... I get the distinct impression that his lock pin was installed with the threaded end - up - toward the car body. In that case he would NOT drive the pin "...upwards from the bottom up" as you suggest. From your follow-on replies.. I get the impression that you have it fixed in your mind that all lock pins are always installed with the treaded end down.. toward the road. That has most certainly not been my experience - and based on Dan S's question it would seem to not be the case on his car. If the treaded end is considered to be the top of the lock pin: 1. The pin - is wider at the bottom than the top 2. You would drive it out by applying pressure to the top of the pin 3. If you leave the nut even with the top of the treads - you can safely smack the nut with a brass hammer to dislodge the pin. That is simply a little easier than trying to align a drift with only the threaded end. I'm pretty sure that Dan S understood what I was saying, so I'm sure the pin will come out. I didn't feel that I was contradicting your input - so much as trying to make it clear to Dan S in his terms... and based on his input...... I did say "based on how you (Dan S) ask the question". Sorry for any confusion.. Carl B.

Hi Gary: I purchased the puller from the source here on the forum and as I understand it - everything is high strength/hardened steel .. and yes that included the thrust bearing. FWIW, Carl B.

Most of the time.... Hi Gary: I had tightened the large nut on the spindle pin puller down... pretty tight.. and the pin didn't move. A friend with more arm power than me... cranked the nut down on the spindle pin puller - until the nut stripped!!.. Spindle pin didn't move... Took the assembly (strut still connected to the lower transverse link)... to the shop and subjected it to 25 Ton's of pressing force... Spindle pin didn't move.... Applied HEAT... to the entire length of the spindle pin... LOTS OF HEAT... put it back in the Press.. and it finally pressed out... Lesson Learned... if the spindle pin puller won't pull it out with "reasonable force" applied to the nut... stop.. apply LOTS OF HEAT... Others that I have done, simply pulled out with no problems... FWIW, Carl B.

Whoa... I think webdawg1 stated that wrong.. based on how you ask the question. As you can see from the pictures webdawg1 provided.... the lock pin is wider at the bottom - SO you drive the pin - top (threaded end) down..and out the bottom. Leave the nut screwed even with the end of the threads to protect them.. smack swiftly with a brass hammer.. remove the nut... and use a brass drift to pound it the rest of the way out (if it doesn't fall out once it gets started) FWIW, Carl

The "L" is not part of the VIN on ZX - but it is part of the "Model Number" listed on the Model Identification Plate.... on some of the ZX's it's under the hood on the cowl or innerfender... ie... HLS130 (J) (F)(A) (T) (U)(V)(N) or KHLS130....or HLGS130 K= T-Bar Roof H= 2.8L FI engine L= Left Hand Drive G = 2+2 J=GL Package I believe F=5 spd A=A/T T=Turbo U=Federal Standard V=California Standard N=Canada Standard I have not seen a break-down of the Right Hand Drive vs Left Hand Drive total production numbers. FWIW, Carl B.

Did the ZX's not have a color code sticker under the hood? If you knew the model type (GL or not) and the original color, you would be able to determine the interior color, as well as what was standard equipment (yes/no?) Carl B.

Vehicle Identification or Vehicle Model Identification data plate, under the hood... If you have one there... Carl B.

I'm sure you and your wife will enjoy both the Z Car and the Z Car Community. It's always good to hear that people who have always wanted a Z / ZX have finally got one. You might want to order a copy of Brian Long's book - Datsun/Nissan 280/300 ZX. Amazon.com should have it in stock.. ISBN: 1-901295-06-0 regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

You may find a "Model Identification Data Plate" on your ZX under the hood... that will provide some farther information related to what specific model it is and thus what was standard equipment etc. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dan: Oops.... had you listed, but neglected to move the "Last Series I" marker in the spread sheet....da.... Glad you caught that... I had a note there to check/verify if 240Ztt's Z was a Series I or II car... HLS30 020425. I'll have to PM him/her. kind regards, Carl

Hi Steven: We didn't forget... we just try to ignore the fact that our friends in Australia continued to run leaded fuels and drive dirty emissions vehicle for years after we attempted to set a high standard for purity here in the US. { just kidding of course...} regards, Carl B. BTW - I see that we can celebrate our birthdays together...

For the US and Canada: Series I Datsun 240-Z's were produced in calendar years 1969, 1970 and 1971. Series I Datsun 240-Z's were sold, and titles were issued as "Model Year" 1969, 1970 and 1971. Prior to March of 1971 Automobile Titles were defined by State Laws in all 50 States. Thus the recorded "Model Year" was simply reported by the selling Dealer, when they requested that a State Automobile Title be issued, based on presenting the Manufacturer's Statement of Origin (MSO). Because the Series I Datsun 240-Z meet all U.S. Federal Government Requirements for calendar year 1969, 1970 and Pre-March 1971, the Authorized Datsun Dealers could sell and title them as any of the three. Nissan Called the Series II 240-Z's the "Late Model Year 1971" Series II Datsun 240-Z's were produced in calendar year 1971 and were sold and titled as "Model Year" 1971 only (here in America at least) Because the U.S. Federal Government increased and/or changed both Emissions and Safety Standards for cars produced prior to certain dates with calendar years 1971, 72, 73 - and because Nissan Motors implemented the required changes in compliance with the required dates - year by year... the "Late Model Year 1971" {Series II}, 1972 {Series III} and 1973 {Series IV} cars could only be legally sold/titled as those "Model Years" per Federal Law. Series I Datsun 240-Z's sold in the USA and Canada were produced between Oct. 1969 and Jan. 1971. Regular Production cars - HLS30-00016 though HLS30 020390 have been recorded so far. Series II Datsun 240-Z's sold in the USA and Canada were produced between Jan. 1971 and Sept. 1971. Regular Production cars HLS30 21477 though HLS30 046520 have been recorded so far as being Series II cars. Series III Datsun 240-Z's were produced between Sept. 1971 and Aug. 1972. Regular Production cars HLS30 046636 though HLS30 100262 have been recorded so far. Series IV Datsun 240-Z's sold in the USA and Canada were produced between Aug. 1972 and Aug. 1973. Regular Production cars HLS30 120031 though HLS30 172767 have been recorded so far. Interest Note: 260Z - RLS30 00020 was built in July of 1973, a month before production of the 240-Z's ended. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Roger: Setting aside all the excellent rational for the differing perspectives as to just what the word "best" means; when the context is not specific enough, or which specific cases one can consider; ... if we take your question to mean which model year 240-Z, as delivered from the factory, represented Nissan's Best Effort to deliver a 240-Z that meet their Customers' Requirements/Desires and was as free from defects or troubles as possible... then I believe the answer is most certainly the 1972 Model Year. As many have mentioned - by the 1972 Model Year Nissan had made many improvements to the 240-Z, based in large part on experience and feedback from their Dealers...who used to listen carefully to their Customers and report that feedback to Nissan Motors USA (at least here in America) To a lesser extent "issues" already known to the Nissan Engineers were also addressed in the 72 Model Year. I know this to be a fact, because I was both a Salesman and New Car Sales Manager for a Datsun Dealer in 72/73. Why Different Than 71? The long list of improvements made for the 72. Why Different Than 73? The Federal Emissions and Safety Standards for 73 - which had little or nothing to do with what the Customers "wanted". No question in my mind that "Stock" for "Stock" the 72 240-Z was the "Best of Breed" for the new car buyers. It would also be my first choice for any stock 240-Z that I wanted to drive across the State or across the Country. Start making modifications or taking exceptions to "stock" .. and all bets are off... Just my "opinion" based on owning and driving them all for the past 36 years, for what its worth. The "best" 240-Z that you can find today - is the one that is closest to original, stock with the most rust free body!! Carl B.

Hi Rich: I'm with you... After 20 years in the AeroSpace Industry, Dr. Deming seems to be an old friend. With Manned Space Systems - everything had to be the highest possible quality, and everyone I worked with was a total believer... (sadly even with the best human efforts... we all see that things still go wrong at times) Dr. Deming's Statistical Quality Control techniques certainly laid a foundation upon which the production of high quality products from Japan was built Post WW-II. Indeed Nissan Motors won a Deming Award 1959/60. You may find a study of Dr. Joseph M. Juran a nice compliment to Deming's work. Dr. Juran actually took Dr. Deming's statistical techniques and processes controls from the physical world of production, into the human world of Management. His Total Quality Management and Continual Process Improvement methods have evolved over the years into Six Sigma today. If you haven't read it already - "KAIZEN The Key to Japan's Competitive Success" by: Masaaki Imai is another very interesting read. (ISBN 394-55186-9 If you are interested in going back to the beginning of the automobile industry in Japan, I'm sure you would find the book "William R. Gorham - An American Engineer in Japan" a fascinating study. Written by his closest friends in Japan, after his death in 1949 Mr. Gorham is credited with all but building Japan's modern industrial base prior to WW-II, and was the key person in the technological foundation of Nissan Motors (even before it was Nissan!). (ISBN 1-4116-5549-4 ) You can order the book in either digital form, or hard copy from Lulu.com <a href=http://www.lulu.com/content/174439 TARGET=NEW> http://www.lulu.com/content/174439 </a> Nissan and Toyota were neck and neck for the #1 Sales Spot in the 60's and 70's.... Nissan lost it's focus on Quality (Deming/Juran) in the early 80's and they lost ground to Toyota though the 80's and 90's. Sadly with all the mergers and re-organizations at Nissan, I haven't seen it return to the path followed so well by Toyota. FWIW Carl B.

Are you in Tampa Bay? Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA (Tampa Bay Area) http://ZHome.com

Hi Rich: Yes - $5,500.00 is certainly priced to sell - and back here East of the Mississippi that a pretty good deal. Shipping from California is now around $1,500.00 alone. As I recall - a replacement floorboard set from Charlie is around $250.00 (both floorboards and both frame rails under them). Then you would have between $650.00 and $850.00 in labor if you lived in this area... maybe slightly more or less depending on where you live and who you know. FWIW, Carl

I know it's just me....... but is there anyone else out there? I have to admit that I am more than a little puzzled as to why a Toyota 2000 GT would be worth a quarter million dollars today in the Collector Market. Granted that Toyota has become the superpower of the worlds automotive market and therefore developed a large following of very loyal customers. But Toyota could hardly be described as being known for it's Sports Cars. (yes they have built a few - and yes the Supra's are very good etc). Yes the Toyota 2000 GT is a very limited production vehicle, and granted they are pretty rare. Rare however is not necessarily assurance of a high market demand nor value. Rare and Highly Desirable usually drive prices up.... but I'm puzzled as to who, or what group of people have such a burning desire to own one of the these oddities. The Toyota 2000 GT was a valiant attempt and it certainly lead the Japanese Sports Car market in the mid 60's. Beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder; nonetheless we can discuss its styling in terms of esthetics, balance, harmony and period or era, as well as compare it to the Datsun 240-Z that followed. The styling was sort of retro so to speak - back to the early 50's Jag.'s (flowing curves and bulbous fenders and side panels).... and somewhat conflicted in character. Was it British (Jag) or Italian (Ferrari) or Japanese? Smooth body lines abruptly interrupted by really ugly headlights and a huge nose, out of proportion to the rest of the car. Swooppy - YES, harmonious - NO. The 2000 GT didn't really do all that well in the competition world - it was too heavy. It really didn't do well in the market place either - it was too expensive to manufacture, too slow and too cramped to sell well in the US in the mid 60's. For that matter the Yamaha A550X of the same period, was a far better looking design - in my personal opinion. Would anyone of us really pay a hundred grand more for a Toyota 2000 GT than a 68-72 Ferrari Daytona Coupe?? NOT ME... Forgetting for a minute rarity... sitting a Datsun 240-Z beside a Toyota 2000GT... they are day and night. Where the 2000GT was heavy, costly to build, and conflicted in styling cues... the 240-Z was lightweight, inexpensive to build and one of the all time clean and beautifully styled GT's. Where the 2000 GT wasn't exactly a class leader on the track - the 240-Z dominated it's class for years and many are still being raced today. Where the 2000 GT caught the attention of the automotive press and buying public - although briefly. The 240-Z changed the US Sports Car market over-night and changed the image of Japanese Automobiles. I know it's just me, but I just don't get it. There are only a few 2000 GT's left, because there were only a few built to begin with. Only a few built because it was not a very good design nor Sports GT in the first place. It had no significant impact on the worlds automotive markets.... so how can one be worth a quarter million dollars to anyone today? I could see maybe $45K to $55K..... just to own a rare oddity... FWIW Carl B.

Hi Guys: I spoke too soon..... While the previous discussion was right on track by everyone - my "example" turned out to be a mistake... upon closer and more careful inspection - what we have here is really a high #4 Condition Car... NOT a #3. - - - - - - - - - #4 Good - A driveable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. Also, a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be excellent, the car is mostly usable "as is". This is a driver - It may be in the process of restoration or it owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away, there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help.. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - I'd call it a "high" #4 because the car is actually better than the definition of #4, but not good enough to be rated a #3 either. I've up-dated the Web Page to reflect the fact that the floorboard had been poorly repaired by the Previous Owner, and would need to be completely replaced. Also reduced the price to $5,500.00. At that price one could have a good presentable daily driver... and at some point in the future a car well worth refreshing. Still a good looking Z with an interesting history... FWIW, Carl

I believe you are confusing the bolts that go in the Ring Gear and the bushings that can be used to size a 12mm hole down to 10mm for the older and newer R200's (the article you found) ..... with the bolts/bushings that hold the mustache bar to the body. It would seem that if you can take the mustache bar out of a 75-78 280Z and bolt it into a 240Z... then the reverse should hold true. Did something in the past bend or push out of place the body bolts? Remember that the R180 is shorter than the R200.. and the mustache bar has to be reversed in orientation between the two models. I've never done the swap in the direction your talking about.... so these are just my thoughts, comments... FWIW, Carl B.