Carl Beck

Cooling systems are closed systems, and pressurized only to raise the boiling point of the coolant. If the coolant isn't at it's boiling point - you won't have any pressure build up. How warm in New Jersey is it now? Are we talking 70 degree days or 85 degree days? The first thing to do - is pressure test the cooling system. If it holds 14 to 16 psi and the car isn't overheating - - I'd doubt you have a problem. If you don't have a cooling system pressure tester - find a shop that does and ask them to check it. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Zup: Sorry to join in late... The seller states: "Bone stock restored over 10+ years to the level of the Nissan Program 240Z cars of the late 90s." As others have pointed out, several of the details that are not bone stock - I'll add that I seriously doubt this car was refreshed or remanufactured to anywhere near the level of the Vintage Z's. The seller shows no receipts for complete engine rebuild, transmission rebuild, rear-end rebuild. Nor any mention of completely rebuilding the suspension, doesn't even show the undercarriage.... If we assume that everything not shown, or not mentioned - has in fact been done and done right.. I'd call it a low #3 condition example, in the eyes of the Collector Community. The Canadian Dollar is about the same as the US Dollar at this point - so IF everything on the car is as it should be - it would most likely be well worth $18K today. However - because everything is NOT as it should be on the car you'd have to deduct value for major items that would need to be corrected - to bring it into the mid to upper #3 condition category. A #3 condition example need not be "perfect", nor even "near perfect" - but judged as a Collector Example it needs to at least be STOCK with all major components correct for the model and year. Major Glaring Things: 1. WRONG DASH - series I/II dashes are $1,000.00 to $1800 today - IF you can find one that isn't cracked. 2. The engine compartment is far from STOCK - and a #3 car need not be "perfect" but it has to be STOCK. The finish on the fuel lines, brake lines, clutch lines would need to be corrected - take them out and have them properly yellow cad plated. Put the correct cast aluminum finish on the valve cover and carb's., put the proper stickers in place. At least black spark plug wires!! 3. Refinish the tail light finisher in the correct lt. metallic gray finish & put the correct rivets in place 4. Rework the sloppy job on the vinyl on the rear shock towers 5. He has the hubcaps - get the correct wheels and put them on the car All and all - it would take some time, some work and some additional money to bring it solidly into the upper end of the #3 category. Pictures show a nice 240-Z, and if the paint and body were were documented and done right - $18K wouldn't be a bargain, but it wouldn't be overpriced either. Over $20K it would have to have most of the items above corrected. just my impressions from the pictures... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Powerglide: Your opinions are most likely far more accurate than the "hype" of "fully restored" in the item description. Thanks for sharing.. We'll most likely see the car on a Dealers Lot in the following months - priced at $21,500.00..... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dan: Call Kim Blough at Idaho Z. He has a large collection of parts cars, and he can rebuild an R200 for you. Tell him I said hello. Kim Blough Idaho Z Car 2913 Garrity Blvd. Nampa, Idaho 83687-3629 (208) 466-0004 FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks Guys.... Carl B.

Hi Ron: It "seems" to be on-line now - at least from this sector.. Give it try and let me know if it comes up... thanks, Carl B.

When I tried to renew the domain name on-line - I received a message from the server that because a major VISA/MC data base was compromised - the transaction could not be processed. I was told to contact my VISA/MC provider to "unfreeze" the account. I did that, and it took a couple days for them to figure out what was going on. VISA told me that the transaction was held, because payment was being sent outside the USA, and that they would unfreeze the transaction... I'm not really sure now just what the problem was... but the domain's (both ZHome.com and Becksystems.com) were renewed. ZHome.com was renewed one day late - and that resulted in the domain name being automatically deleted from the DNS... I don't know how long it will take to get it reentered... then proporogate though the system - but usually it's at least 24 to 48 hours... If it ain't one thing - it's another.. FWIW, Carl B.

I'm sorry to hear that your PT is in such sad shape. Nonetheless, if we review all the Road Tests of both the PT and the 240-Z, you'll see that when compared "new car" to "new car"... they are in fact very close. We'll have to check farther - but I think the PT actually has a lower Cd than the Z as well. <pre> ----------------------240-Z------------------- PT 0-60 - - - - -- - - - 8.7 (R/T) - - - - - - - 8.5 (CD) 1/4 mile 17.1 (R/T) 16.6 (MT) 16.7(CD) Top Spd.. 115 (tested) 112(tested-CD) Engine 2.4L/150hp 2.4L/150 (MT) 60-0 brake 151ft. (SCG) 120ft. 70-0 185 ft (CD-Street Mod) 186(CD) Lat. G 0.73(RT) 0.78(CD) Ground Clearance 6.5" 6.5" Fuel Capacity 15.9 gal 15gal </pre> CD=Car & Driver RT=Road & Track SCG=Sports Car Graphic MT=Motor Trend Different Road Tests done by different mag.'s reported slightly different results - but that was true for both cars. The above are just typical examples of the reported spec.'s. The PT was heavier, had FAR more emissions and safety equipment - but the efficiency of the Front Wheel Drive helped off-set some of the weight and emissions/safety penalties. Actually the two cars separated by 31 years - were very close in terms of their target performance ranges.. The in-line six and lighter weight in the Z does give it an advantage in mid-range speed performance.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: There is a difference between a starting battery that is "discharged" and one that is "dead". A battery that is discharged, can of course be recharged - after all, being rechargeable is one of the main functions of a starting battery. When any battery is "DEAD" - it usually won't take a charge. Most of the time with Lead/Acid Batteries this is caused by the lead plates be sulfated. Using some modern electronically controlled chargers - lead/acid batteries can be desulfated. So batteries that were formally considered "Dead", can in fact be brought back to at least partial useful life. NOT SO with the Optima Type...when they are actually DEAD...you throw them out and get a new one. The maximum recharging rate for the Optima type batteries is 10amp for 6 to 10 hours at about 13.6 to 15 volts - - but it takes voltage as high as 20 to 25 Volts to desulfate the lead plates in the older style Lead/Acid batteries. That's a BIG NO NO for the Optima's... Bottom line is Yes you can recharge a fully discharge Optima battery - Yes it's best done over a longer period of time at lower amp hour rates. But Yes when it's actually DEAD.... it can't be brought back to life. Just my personal opinion - but for my use the Optima is worth every penny (OK, it's worth every several extra $20.00 dollars bill that it takes to buy one for my Z) FWIW, Carl B.

Actually - That isn't correct. I dropped him an e-mail to ask about that. He only shows a picture of ONE Paint Code Sticker... he MIGHT actually have two or more different ones. One might not however get that impression as he only asks that you specify the Paint Code. The sticker that says "AMINO ALKYD" would NOT be correct for Paint Code 901 for example, as it was a Metallic Color painted with Acryl Enamel (Acrylic). So - 76Datsun280Z should assure the Sticker he orders - has the right type of paint printed on it. Pictured below is the original paint code sticker from an 11/69 production 240-Z. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark: Yes- and it's a good thing too. I totally screwed up the calculations - I must have been falling asleep or having as Senior Moment.. Had time to go back through this - to see why such difference.... between my calculation and the Web Based Speadsheets... Holding the Deck Height at "0"... as there seems to be some disagreement to the actual data being gathered.... I should have written: L28 - Flat Top Pistons (79-83) & E31 Head Swept Volume of Cylinder = 458.9cc Combustion Chamber volume = 42.4cc Gasket Volume = 7.7cc Deck Height = 0 558.9 + 42.4 + 7.7 = 509 and 42.4 + 7.7 = 50.1 so 509 divided by 50.1 = 10.16 Thanks for catching that... Mark/Bo... FWIW, Carl B.

How did you get a picture that wide to upload or hotlink... yea gad... Carl B.

Hi Bart: The L24 isn't out of a Datsun 240-Z, their serial numbers don't go that high. Most likely out of a later model 810 or Maxima sedan. There aren't any codes on the transmissions - about the best you can do is to identify the type and model year range by a visual inspection of the exterior. There are drawings of each type on the Z Car Home Page. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg If you want to know more details you have to count the teeth on the gears in the transmission. FWIW, Carl B.

That was shot at the 1995 ZCCA Annual Convention in Atlanta. I've always felt it was a real shame that they used mostly local cars, from the local club - - when they could have used some of the super nice, Pure Stock examples that were brought in for the Show. Other than some minor misstatements, it's a pretty good effort by the History Channel. Just a shame they didn't have someone involved at the time that really would have cared about presenting proper cars for History. FWIW, Carl B.

On the dyno - removing the top of the air cleaner, and the filter netted 4HP in the peak power band. Haven't found any individual filter units that allowed enough room for air horns on the S.U.'s FWIW, Carl B.

Absolutely NOT. That type of hack job can put a body man in Jail in Florida. Most State's have consumer protection laws that govern how Uni-Body structures have to be repaired. Sadly they aren't enforced very often - but when they are - the Politicians like to make an example of the offender. You can weld a patch in the hole - or replace the roof skin. Either method will have retain the strength of the original roof panel. When cut through the multiple overlaping layers of sheetmetal in A and C pillars - it's impossible to reweld all the layers cut.. only the external layer can be welded .. .and that is a huge NO NO when it comes to repairing a uni-body car. You did the right thing - from a structural perspective - by patching the hole. FWIW, Carl B.

This is absolutly the ONLY way you ever want to replace the roof panel on a 240-Z. Take it to that man, he knows what he's doing. FWIW, Carl B.

I'll be there with the BRE Baja Z.. We need to bug Jimbo to bring a Vintage Z or two.. It's a huge concours... FWIW, Carl B.

Bo - what specific numbers are you putting into that calculator? thanks, Carl B.

Hi Mark: Most of the guys seemed to agree that the L28 head gasket was 88mm - you have 86. I also get 1.27mm for the compressed height of the gasket .05 inch or 1.27mm. You are using 1mm Also you have a piston deck clearance .3mm - ie. below the deck - - all my notes say it should be .-0.741 above the deck. I was using -0.3 by mistake as that is for a 0.5mm overbore. FWIW, Carl B.

Well it would appear that you have a 1973 Datsun 240-Z, with an L24 engine. What is the engine serial number? The numbers that follow "L24"? I don't believe that you can get any previous owner history from records here in the States. Nissan certainly won't have any files from that period either. FWIW, Carl B.

MEZZ - where do you find the "Left For Others" feedback section? Carl B.

No - no black 240-Z's. The Black 280Z produced for the 78 Model Year here in the US was really a limited edition - "test market" - to see if a black Z would sell. It did and the following year the 280ZX was introduced with Black as a standard color. The original paints were amino-alkyd enamel... for 69/70 the acrylic (Acryl) enamels were used only on the Silver Metallic 69/70. FWIW, Carl B.

Wayne - Amen! I am copying that reply and I'm going to send it to people from now on... I'll only add that IMHO the PT is the spiritual successor to the 240-Z. WHAT??? Yes it is - if you look at the spec.'s the two are very close: - Wheel Base - Weight to HP ratio - 1/4 mile times - stopping distance 60-0 Both had lots of FUN in mind when designed Both had lots of UTILITY for the owner Both had lots of personality Both sat record sales Both offered bargain pricing for the total package of Fun and Utility in their time Both had "enthusiasts" Clubs formed around them, and lots of aftermarket stuff created for them Both broke the mold for their time While the Datsun 240-Z comes as close to being the "Perfect Car" as I have even seen - no one car will cover every drivers "desires" and their "needs". I'll offer an alternative path - - Keep the PT for daily use, reliability, comfort - - and find a great Datsun 510 to drive for FUN. The 510 will cost far less today than a 240-Z, but it will give you a basis for learning the mechanical side of older cars, while giving you a car that can be make to handle as well or better than the 240-Z. Yes the 510 is a boxy little sedan, but has great heart, is really fun to drive and the people that own/drive them fall in love with them just as hard as the 240-Z owners do.. If money is a factor - start with the Datsun 510... FWIW, Carl B.

If you turn your stock battery around - to put the positive post closest to the engine - then the battery hold down frame's indents (cutouts) are in the wrong position - and that can leave your battery posts too close to the hold down frame. See white arrow in Stephen's picture below... That notch is there to provide room for the cable ends, so they don't contact the frame.. Better to get the Group 24F and keep the battery posts in their original position. Even so - most batteries today have their posts - just slightly off the center line of the top of the case. Whereas the older style batteries had they posts closer to one side or the other... This too can cause interference with the stock battery hold down frame's cut-outs.... Nothing is as easy as it should be... FWIW, Carl B.