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Thats hilarious....I only go over there in the Z....was just there a couple of weeks ago....actually I have the Ground Control street prepared camber plates. They are a really slick set-up....just very rough ride...dont want to induce early labor on my wife.

I say 40's for the fact that the TWM manifold is bored to 40mm....to the fact that the intake ports are about 40mm, and to the fact that a 3litre is a stroker motor that is best suited to making gobs of bottom end torque....with 40's it will be olot easier to get 2 of the big 3 knockedout....driveability...aka bottom end torque, and fuel mileage....then it is just a matter of main jet selection to get the top end power.....gotta remember that the motors they were hanging 45's and 50's off of in the 70's were really "over carburated" and were turning around 8-9k rpm all the time. Give me some specific numbers on your engine..ie total displacement and I can crunch some numbers and get you a pretty good ballpark setup.

A few year ago Scott Bruning of Z-Therapy fame had a MIT engineering student do a study of 240Z factory velocity stacks VS all other aftermarket stacks.....the factory stack flowed more air at a higher velocity than all the others....just food for thought.

I drove a 71 240z through my college years....mind you it was only 17 years old at the time, but if it is in decent shape when you buy it and you are halfway mechanicaly inclined....they can be very easy to maintain and very reliable

Ahh we considered this....I am running 150lb fronts with 175lb rears......cant get much softer than that.....the real problem is the solid aluminum block camber plates.....there is absolutely no rubber in my suspension...that is the real problem......besides...I am going to hang on to the coilovers and camberplates....a swap back in a few years would be rather simple.

Not a big NASCAR fan, but they use a very discriptive term.....Understeer is PUSH...oversteer is LOOSE

Yes the p-90a can make great HP numbers, yes it can be rebuilt when a lifter goes bad, but I am not paying for it...And BTW if you can figure out how to get it to make power after 6k rpm.....let me know....there are quite a few engineers that cant solve that one.

Just gotta love Salvage Yards. I just picked up a 3.54:1 diff, And all four strut housings in great shape for $260. Now the wife will stop whining about the harsh ride from the coil-overs....seemed like a good thing to do at the time but now that she is pregnant with our first little one I no longer have the time to race. Sooooo, we are putting oem length struts back in with tokiko blue shocks and some older mullholland springs I have had laying around for years. Back to being a daily driver instead of a track car.

The P-90a is the later head with hydraulic lifters...the head you want is the earlier P-90

www.racetep.com They have the complete weber kit...I would suggest with a 3L to get their 40DCOE kit with the TWM manifold. Really dont know how much HP you will gain as I do not know the full particulars of your engine set-up and/or how much HP you are making now. As for cons....they can be very tricky to tune to get the big three all right....driveability, Top End HP, and Fuel Mileage...but it can be done...just very tricky...it is almost a black art.

2Many....you are corect the 280 housings are larger diameter....as for the extra length of the housing.....it is negligable when using aftermarket supplied gland nut...the extra slack is taken up with the gland nut.

Take the valve cover off and phyisicaly manipulate the fuel pump arm to prime the bowls....it take quite a bit more than a few turns to fill empty bowls.

Actually...Koni is no selling their strut inserts as being for 70-78 vehicles. All with the same part number...so yes struts for a 240 will fit into a 260 2+2....as for springs...you definitely need to be aplication specific because of the increased weight of a 260 2+2

Dont think that would be a great idea....CR would be 7.62:1 and you would have the crappy hydraulic lifters.

The factory cast monifold is just as bad about giving off heat as a header is...and guess what...when cast iron gets real hot it warps alot. I am running a MSA 6-1 ceramic coated with a custom mandrel bent 2.5 in stainless and a borla mufler in the factory location. Sounds great and it really keeps the heat down. BTW the Arizona Z-car header is the same one MSA sells. I do not know who makes it but I do know it was designed on an engine dyno.....once mounted in a car with new engine and tranny mounts....it requires a special bend after the colector to clear the tranny cross member.

Actually that balance tube was used on euro 240-260 Z's. It is still listed in the Nismo books as a race part.

:finger:Has no one learned yet....never sidestep the clutch....get it moving first ...jus a little...then light em up

You are correct..the interiors were vynle and plastic

I believe you can get a poly spacer from MSA....of course you could just use the identical steering bearing in the reasr as well.

The turbo dizzy is actualy part of a crank angle sensor type unit....only works on turbo cars

Ai'nt that the truth...frikking hilarious

Here is something that most people do not realise. The HT voltage is so high that it does not travel down the plug wire as electricity but rather as a magnetic field, impervious to resistance, Therefore It is sensless to "waste" money on expensive "low" resistance plug wires. Rather it is more important that the wires have good EMI shielding. The NGK wires are the best OEM wire...other than the magnecor wires that come on ferraris. Check out magnecor.com. Lots of good info there...even a plug from one manufacturer to another...Magnecor stating that NGK wires had good emi properties.

I refuse to use any plug wire other than NGK.

The mount damper...comonly called a strut bearing...houses a steel sealed bearing in front. Since the damper is identical front to rear they had to put a rubber spacer in the rears....theese need to be replaced with a poly spacer or machined aluminum when you replace the rear strut inserts

I would recomend the Ground Control set-up....1 in bar is all that is needed in a 240 unless you have a heavier v-8 conversion.