SCCA_racer

If you are intersted in getting your Z on the track for drag racing, auto-x or even just high speed driver education take a look at the regional racing post by the same title. I am trying to get a group together to share information and participate in driving events.

Hey Texas area Z car nuts. If you are interested in getting out on the track, I am involved in several clubs that have track evenst as well as have info on other sources. Lets do what we can to get our cars out there and racing /driving at the limit legally! Reply to thei post if you are interested and I will start posting upcoming track days and auto-xes. Somebody with an in to import drags can join in and ad those dates

I have been running the Escta V700 on my race car and it is a nice intermediate tire. Works well rain or shine, lasts a long time (for a race tire). has good grip and gives lots of feedback, fairly forgiving of errors. However I must say that the Victoracer is a faster tire in my experience. I know that the V700 is a bit grippier than the Yok A032 and less grippy than the Victoracer or the old BFG R1. The Toyo Proxess is a nice alternative. Shop around and see what is available in your size and any of those tires will serve you well for maybe as much as a year of track driving, Hoosiers and Goodyear are race tires. They will only last a few heat cycles regardless of remaining tread. They are measurably faster in most instances but it costs you. Good luck and enjoy!

I had considerd a stay. Where do you attach it? I was thinking of runing from the head to the strut top on the passenger side.

Lovely car, if it wasn't half a world away I might try to find a way to buy it. Just curious if you race wheel to wheel and if this car is competitive where classed. Here the Z's are pretty fair shakes in the fairly stock "IT" class but are not so great in the more highly modified classes due to restrictions.(thanks to the SCCA) Good luck with the sale!

2 things one is media selection. You may be told that playground sand from any department/home improvement store will work. It is a bad choice because it has a lot of organic matter in it and tends to absorb moisture and clog in the gun and the feed tube the wrong media can also damage whatever you are blasting if you are not careful two is fighting moisture. Getting a line drier, even a cheap disposable one can help tremendously this will especially be an issue if you are taxing your air source. good luck!

Think of it this way. Which would you rather give up permanently, sex or Z cars? I can think of other sports cars that might entertain (my 76 Porsche 930 comes to mind) but Ken's substitue for sex just doesn't seem to be as apealing an alternative.(though certainly cheaper to maintain)

is everything. I have not gotten back to you because this weekend I am headed in the wrong direction (Dallas). I can probably get down next weekend with the trailer, if you can wait that long. Sound good?

Do you have atitle for the car? If so I might be interested.

Some comments have been made about the safety or lack therof in the Z. I think that the accidnet that we see here is a good example of why shorter cars are vulnerable and why side impact is critical. I am glad to say that I have had two Zs protect me from mortal harm. One was a front end impact with a wall and one was an offset frontal impact with another race car. Both times the front end of the car did just what it was supposed to and crumbled to protect me. Sadly there just is not much room to crumble on the sides. Even a modern sports car (or compact car for that matter) can be deadly if you get "t-boned". Since he looks to have survived ,I am hopeful that the z car was free of any fault and that our fellow z-driver will not be strapped with hospital bills, repair/replacement and all of these concerns out of his won pocket. get well soon!

I believe that it is called a Eunos.

I understand that all of the turbos after 88 had an r200 LSD. It was the later cars (twin turbos) that had the r230. Somebody stop me if that info is erroneous...

Looking into if poly or solid mounts(isolators) are available or useful. Car is a 280Z built for road racing with a mildly modified motor.

Anybody found solid or poly mounts? Anybody have reason not to look? This is ofr a 78 Z car prepared to the SCCA ITS rules (mostly stock motor)

If one were building the super Z, what would be the pros and cons of using an L28 block with flat-top pistons instead of the later ZX block with an earlier head? I know that the later block has some improvements (stronger, siamesed cylinders etc) but does it have any shortcomings? Anybody know?

I think that part of the fun and interets here would be the discussion of what would be the ultimate club car, for those of us who actually build them. Lets try starting out deciding what we will need and try to figure what the budget would be to build such an ultimate machine. I would assume that we will be starting with the early 240Z chasis. Then we would want a late block (p series) perhaps with mild overbore to get a decent 3 liters on flat tops. N42 head (cheap, available and square ports and decent compression with flat tops)? Carbs (webers, holley????)? 4spd 5 spd gear set? r180 r200 LSD, locked, torsen? coil overs (of course) custom cage ($$ go in style and safety) 2 seats aluminum radiator fuel cell ????? What other dreams can we spend our imaginary (or real) cash on?

Jerry DiBenedetto All "z" car specialist Nissan Parts 5101 Mosson Rd Ft Worth, Tx 76119 (817)483-0383

Try looking on Yahoo yellow pages. I don't have the tel # with me.

Try ALL Z Imports in DFW. They are on loop 820 southeast of FW. Jerry has acres of Z's. Are you still looking for the pedals or for something else?

There are some differences in the body, specifically that I have noted in reinforcements in the sheet metal. The suspension is the same. Bumpers are upgraded and ride on impact absorbers on the later cars. There are tranny dfferences early to late 240 and then in the 280 the 5 spd was optional. The dash is redesigned, the seats look a bit different as does the door trim. The locking mechanism of the 280 and 240 is slightly different but adaptable. Oh the 280 has FI and the early cars are on carbs so the fuel pump etc are different. The brake boosters vary by year (somewhat) What else? Somebody help me out.

This mod is done all of the time for SCCA competition, but we actually cut the sheet metal to get the fuel cell as low as possible for weight distribution and also to allow a larger cell. There is a how to on zcar.com. Good luck and use a quality cell if you do this with some sort of enclosure for safety!

I have an L28 block with N47 head currently attached to an auto tranny. You can come and pick it up for $25. Tranny was good motor had low compression when pulled. Heck, make me an offer. I might even throw in the distributor, starter and alternator for the right price!!!

Why not get it for you Allan! It could be the start of a great learning experience for you. In the end, it might end up a car you can fix (or at least sell parts)!

Did you still need the pedal cluster? I am supposed to pick up a parts car this weekend that should have one. I would be coming through Waco and could drop it off.

Anybody know what type of CR to expect with an N42 head on a p54 block? I would use a non-shaved figure as a starting point. I am curious if the CR would be too high to try to get away with using the FI system with a modifier like GREDDY e-manage or some other enrichment/fuel tuner to provide additional fuel and or adjust spark. thanks Bryan