texasz

I have seen many people say that they have done a rear disc brake conversion, at least one stated it was from a 240SX. I would like to know if this conversion is worth doing? And also how difficult it is? How much should I expect this mod to cost? In conjunction with this I have also been wondering about the front 4x4 mod. I have read the threads on this one already so please do not feel like you need to answer questions about it here or point me to those threads. I say this as it helps give a full picture of what I have been thinking about.

Just a note on the Jap engines for export. The deal is that these are low milage engines, guaranteed under 30k, that are pulled from totalled cars and shipped to the states (and probably elsewhere) since Japan is so short on land they really do not have any junk yards like we do here in the states. How do I know all this? I had a Jap pull out put in a Honda I owned years ago after blowing the motor. Poor little Accord...I treated that thing so bad...won some autoxes in her though! :classic: Just not what that car was made for so it didn't hold up to the abuse too well. 1 tranny rebuild, 2 engines, 4 clutches, carb mods, et all.

Jeff, It appears as though the link you posted is broken. I clicked on it and got a wonderful 404 error.

Great news, direct bolt on is the easiest. Is there any particular year I shoud pull these from? Also, if I did go with vented brakes are slot and drilled basically the same? Where should I be looking to get the disks? Year, make, model car in junk yard? Cataloge (more expensive than used)?

How easy is this conversion? Direct bolt on? What year 4Runner is best for this?

Doehring, Try the email or PM feature of this site. Using the email 2many will then be able to reply directly to you with nobody else knowing what your address is.

dozer, From what I can see where the light is hitting the car in the garage that is a great looking color! Do you have another pic of the car in full light so I can get a better look at it?

But the question I have is which construction material is better, fiberglass or poly?

Just from the first link in the above post it seems that this is a P90a which is the turbo version whereas the P90 is the non-turbo version.

No, I do not know how it's jetted. I do not think that the owner does either. He has told me that the car starts but sputters/backfires and stalls out. He is blaming the over carberation for this problem. The car also comes with dual DGVs already mounted on intakes with I would be swapping for the Holley that is on the car now. That is of course if I buy it.

HS30-H and Ben, If you guys wouldn't mind sharing copies of these lists/papers/cateloges/etc. with the rest of us it would be greatly appreciated. Personally I am open to having them available for download, emailed to me, snail mailed to me, or whatever. I for one would like to see what these contain and I'm sure that there are others here that would also.

I'm looking at a 240Z with an L24 and a Holley 650 on it. Is that carb too big?

I have been reading up on carbs a bit on this site and a few others and have come up with a question. What's the difference between the following: 1) Webber DGV 2) Webber Downdrafts 3) Webber 32/36 :cross-eye

See the longer discussion of this car under the Zcar on eBay section. Here's a link: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6016

That's of course the problem. I do not have the skills nor the tools to do this kind of thing...yet. I'm hoping to learn.

I have not heard back from this guy. I've sent at least two emails to him now. I guess my next step will be to call him this week.

Below are the ones I have found and would like to know about.

Damn it, another one that is too far from me. This could get rather frustrating. Really nice looking car from the pic. Diamond plate for the floors? Someone must have really wanted to make this thing solid and rust resistant.

I just saw some on eBay earlier today. I'd include the link but I scanned through over a dozen pages of search matches so I do not know how long it would take me to find again. [EDIT] Ok that was easier than I thought. Click here for the search: http://search-desc.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2F&MfcISAPICommand=GetResult&ht=1&from=R7&ebaytag1=ebayreg&query=240z+panasport&query2=240z+panasport&search_option=1&srchdesc=y&exclude=&category0=&minPrice=&maxPrice=&ebaytag1code=0&st=&SortProperty=MetaEndSort

I need to know if this book is worth having. Clymer Publications, Service-Repair Handbook - 240 and 260Z - 1970 to 1974

I don't see why this couldn't be done, just look at things like the GTO Z or the Velo Rosa Z car kits.

In case anyone wanted to see the eBay listing or previous discussion on this here's the link to the post http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5733

Two main reasons. First I want a 240Z not a 280Z. Second, VA is a long drive from TX to go get it.

Here's a link to someone selling one for $25 http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/class_parts/14305

I did not take a VERY close look as it is way too far from me to be worth it since shipping would be over $600 to get it to central Texas. So no, I did not notice the damage but thank you for pointing it out; I;m sure that many others on this forum will also notice it. For a car in CA to be worth buying for me it would have to in good shape (no rust out/through, surface rust only, running with the parts I want) and cost about $1200 which is unrealistic. Reason being is that after buying the car and shipping it here that would almost blow my entire budget leaving me no funds to make repairs/upgrades with. No big deal though, I'll just continue looking for one closer to home.