texasz

No that is not exactly what I meant. As I described above, bending the lines to go where you now need them to is ONE solution. The better solution in my opinion is to grab the lines from the same series (1 or 2) as the master cylinder that way the are already bent to go where they need to go. Compare your picture above to this one and I think it will become clear. When the master cylinder changed in 1972 Datsun also made new lines from the master cylinder to the distribution block (again, compare the two pictures). I hope that this clears this up. I just did this very swap a few months ago so this is all quite fresh on my mind still. 🙂

Ok. I thought I had done it that way once though I've not done door handles in years so I could be mistaken. Still, what part of reinstalling them specifically is giving you troubles and we can help guide you through it.

I have replaced a few door handles on the S30 and never once removed the glass, that is not necessary. The new one goes in just the reverse of the old one coming out. Depending upon how well you can reach your hands up into the door shell and what tools you have available you may want to attach the rod to the handle before installing the handle, I've done it both ways. Are you having troubles with a particular part of the installation?

It your picture the master cylinder has the output for the front brakes in front and for the rear brakes in the rear. Are you saying that the other master cylinder is different in that the output for the front brakes is in the rear and for the rear brakes is in the front? If this is the case the modification that is to the lines that come out of the bottom of the master cylinder. One solution is to bend the existing lines, this has risk of braking/kinking them. Another solution is to replace the lines from a later Z (this is what I did when I installed the Wilwood 1" which had the outputs swapped from what the stock master cylinder was). And the last solution is to buy bulk brake line and bend up/make your own new lines (or I think a couple people have used flexible brake hoses here). In your case what you probably want to do is source the original lines from an early car to return to stock...if you are going for stock which it sounds like you are.

This and the fact that I kept getting redirected to Dana when browsing the Spicer website got me curious so I did a little digging and this is what I found... In 1904, Clarence W. Spicer, engineer, inventor, and founder of the company, began manufacturing universal joints in Plainfield, New Jersey. Also in 1904, the first C.W. Spicer "u-joints" were shipped to Corbin Motor Company in Connecticut. In 1905, Spicer Universal Joint Manufacturing Company was incorporated.[3] In 1909, the company changed its name to Spicer Manufacturing Company. In 1910, Spicer relocated to South Plainfield, New Jersey.[3] In 1914, Charles Dana joined the company. In 1922, Spicer was listed on the New York Stock Exchange. In 1925, Spicer expanded internationally taking a holding in licensee in England, Hardy, renamed Hardy Spicer. In 1946, Dana became president and treasurer, and the company was renamed the Dana Corporation. Spicer becomes the brand name for the company's driveline products.[4] References: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spicer_Manufacturing_Company https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_Incorporated

@240260280, I've found that as well as a 1310 series. I'm having troubles 1) determining what I have as I'd like to match as closely as possible and 2) the difference between the two series (I cannot seem to locate info on the 1500 series you posted only the 1310) and finally 3) contact info for Spicer/Dana where I could call/chat/email them to get more info, all of their contact info pushes you to retailers. That being said, I may just make a trip to the local auto parts store to see if they can help. @Patcon, this may be a good option...I'll look into that. Thank you everyone for all the help thus far! 🙂

I was able to grab a picture of some code(s) on the center yoke. Does anyone know that these mean?

@madkaw, have you done this swap with the truck front diff? If so I'd love some more first hand experience/info.

I'm working on 8215. I'm putting an R180 back in. It is the front diff from a Jan - June 1983 Datsun 720 4x4 pickup. It is supposed to be a drop in replacement with the exception of the input/output flanges. I'm going to test that theory. 🙂

A little tricky of a job though we got it done! Moved the jack stands as we suggested (and I was suspecting I may need to) and using two floor jacks (one in the back and one under the front cross member I loosened the the front cross member, dropped the front a little bit (maybe an inch), then wiggled the entire thing on both jacks forward until the two rear bolts cleared the mustache bar and lowed both jacks at the same time. After sliding everything out, removing the cross member from the diff and sliding back up under the Z to put the cross member back in place I noticed how the arms had moved a little bit and was VERY glad I moved the jack stands. 😄 Next is to figure out what must be done to get the 3.9 ratio diff to work in the Z. Looks like replacing the output flanges/output shafts as well as the input are all that is needed so that the drive shaft and half axles of the Z will bolt up.

I thought I could wiggle the diff out of the Z without removing the front diff cross member...looks like I am wrong. I have the car up on jack stands as you can see in the pictures and I can easily remove the front diff cross member by removing the two bolts in the red circles. My question is.....is this safe or will the car fall on me and kill me? My concern is that the jack stands are under the control/a-arms as shown in the pix and removing the diff front cross member appears to them leave the front mounting point (yellow arrows) of the control/a-arms loose...this makes me quite nervous as I don't care to die doing this project. 😉 Can anyone please help with some info/advice? .

Ok, I bought a couple of these years ago from him and am just now getting around to doing some work on my Z. I'm pulling the diff due to a leak (and likely installing a different one with a higher gear ratio). I was not going to install this mount until re-reading this thread...now I'm seriously considering installing it.

Is yours not inside the booster? It seems that when the become dislodged they are normally just rattling around inside the booster.

I happened to be over near my storage yesterday so I stopped in to have a look at the taillights and unfortunately they do not have the additional bulb. This is quite odd since the car has the switches. I could not get a good look at the taillight sub-harness, maybe there is the extra bulb on there and the taillights have been replaced with US spec ones.

What are you looking for? It will be a while, this is not the first Z on my list to work on (probably #2 though). It will likely be years before I do anything with it.

So was it just surface rust or did they bore the cylinders?

Nope, sorry...I was very excited to have found these when I first got the car and planned on seeing what was involved in making them work if they do not already.

OH! Now that I know what the heck is going on in this post I have a little input. I bought a car several years ago and upon getting it home and going through everything I found I had these switches (and hand throttle). @AZ-240z, now after reading that thread (again as I'm certain I read it back when it was active) I will have to go and look at the tail lights in this Z (it is in storage) to see if it has the extra bulb. How exciting!

@heyitsrama I read your thread earlier today which reminded me about my question. 😉 Here are a couple pix of the two that were replaced.

Several years ago I bought a pair of Spicer u-joints for one of my half shafts, I'm pretty sure I bought them from Black Dragon (may have even still been Victoria British at the time). I now want to replace the ones on the other half shaft and the drive shaft. Is Spicer still a great choice? If so can someone help me determine which one to get (I cannot find any of my old paperwork to pull part numbers from). On the ones I have I can see some blue on them if that helps identify what I have to match new ones to.

Looks like surface rust to me, in which case it would come off easily. If you do have (or choose) to bore the you will need larger pistons (or you could consider sleeving the cylinders, though I think larger pistons would be much more cost effective).

Baby oil seems like the kind of thing that would bake your dash...I know that people use it when the sit out in the sun to "tan" themselves and as there is no UV protection in it at all they fry their skin whether they realize it or not.

None of my Zs are zinc (see signature for my Zs).

Yep, I was going to suggest Datsun Spirit also since you are in VA.

It sticks in my mind that I read a write-up of how to repair the window regulators some time ago. It may be worth searching for ways to repair what you have if you have not already done so.