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I was fairly certain they unscrewed, but I will have to go look tomorrow. I replaced the throttle rod boot you are talking about a few months ago. I don't recall having any trouble except needing to be double jointed and gifted with magic powers to get it back on the pedal ball under the dash. My throttle has been feeling somewhat sticky lately Maybe one end is threaded and the other end is not intended to be removed? I'll have to look. From a production standpoint it would seem like a waste to thread both ends since only one end needs to be removed.

I did not know you could trademark a color.

This just in, classiczcars.com reaches new low.

Well if it is all over the inside of your valve cover, wouldn't it make sense that a similar layer was all over lots of other places in your engine that you DON'T see without a complete teardown? As seen in this thread, that stuff is plastered on pretty good. I think the odds of it just flaking off of its own volition are pretty small.

It's the only car I have here, but I only drive it every 2 weeks or so during the regular semester : I can get anywhere else on foot where I live. I also delay my bi-weekly trips if its rainy or whatever.

I wouldn't worry about it proxlamus unless you have some obsessive compulsive fixation on keeping your out of sight engine parts sparking clean.

Yes, if the cam sprocket is tightened to the manual spec torque there is not any way I can imagine it working itself free. I remember removing it being one of the hardest things i've had to do given that I don't have an impact wrench or anything.

Isn't there a clutch in the compressor that just disconnects the pulley from the rotor when the A/C is switched off?

As the chain flys 'round the sprocket, hot oil will fly off of it. Since it is the largest diameter part of the camshaft segment it will be flying the fastest in the largest volume relative to oil being flung from other segments of the camshaft. The constant flow of hot oil is probably what kept the carbon deposits from developing in those spots making it look like 'scratches.' Ever ridden a bicycle with an exposed and over-oiled drive chain too fast? Same thing. That is my theory anyway. If you look at the size and placement of the valve cover over the sprocket there is more than enough clearance when it is bolted on.

My point is, I think that is indeed 918 orange. For one thing, the background elements in the photo linked in the original post are slightly too bright compared to the car. The same thing happens if you take a regular photo of your car in the sun and mess around with the sliders in photoshop to brighten and intensify the color of the car. I'm not saying this was the case with whoever posted the photo, but who knows what their camera equipment was and how it was setup? To show some extrema of situations a few different camera settings could have even on the same picture, here is the same picture with some of the basic visual properties slightly altered to emulate a differing camera setup.

My car is 918, and going through all the pictures I have there is a pretty remarkable difference on how the color looks depending on lighting, cleanliness, wax/acrylic condition, and camera settings. For instance, here it is in various settings.

How long are you cranking it over? I know when my car has been sitting for a while I have to crank it for a bit so the mechanical fuel pump can fill up the floats again.

You don't have to be married to know women are insane

Although it's a ZX, the engineering geek in me is fascinated. I wonder how much a replacement turbine for that would run, and I wonder what happened to the original? Seems like a rather important part for a turbo shaft motor!

Ah I see. I misread earlier posts. I hope you keep us updated on how it goes. Lots of people have fuse box issues so it would be awesome to have some good references

I did not personally cut it, some SOB previous owner did that already.

How much does painless want for that kit? The MSA one is pretty pricey IMO(and even more for shipping to you in Australia), but installing it would be more 'painless' than the Painless wiring kit I am sure.

figured out what wire went where behind the radio and connected it to the player's harness as the manual specified.

Those air tube fittings can be a real PITA to remove after all that rusting like kmack said. I put mine in a vise and had to do all sorts of things to get them all free(soaked with kroil for days, heated with propane, wax(bad idea, don't do it), brute force on a flare nut wrench). The holes left behind are threaded for some sort of BSP fitting which is nearly impossible to find without specially ordering it. Drill and retap as said above. The wax 'trick' was a bad idea in this case because the wax glued itself to the super rough casting of the manifold making it difficult to get it all off. When I fired the engine up I was greeted by smoke from the engine compartment for many days as the wax slowly burned off. The trick wasn't worth the result. I've been told headers result in a significant engine note volume increase in the passenger compartment, take that as you will.

I would probably be down for a center console since I can't get a new original style one and mine is cracked. But then, the consoles were one part that changed a great deal over the years so it wouldn't be easy to make one all-encompassing version of it.

I recently bought a cd-mp3 player for my Z. It's great since I can compile about 7 albums or so onto one disc. Helps keep my time fiddling with the cd binder on the road to a minimum.

As I recall, I tried a few different solvents on the inside of mine when I last had it off without any real success. I just left it there. I figure if all that baked on carbon was so firmly attached, it probably wouldn't come off on its own and cause damage to engine parts. (*knock on wood*) If I was really determined though I would probably end up taking it to a machine shop and have them do some sort of hot tank dip on it since the shape of the underside would make anything else pretty difficult IMO

if you must, get a car that is cheaper to be made fast and save your money to help pay bail later.

I don't think it has so much to do with the metal being of sub-par quality as it has to do with it being insufficiently protected from the factory. Metal used in modern cars will rust too, given similar exposure to the elements.

this thread couldn't have just been left for dead?