EuroDat

I also think the K is from the Maxima N47 L24E but cant be absolutly sure. Here is a timeline for the 280Z & 280ZX. Its not complete and the information is being improved all the time, but it will give you a guide as to where and approx when things changed. This table is based on USA models. Chas

That would be a shame if she looses interest after this is solved. They are an easy car to work and play with. This forum is always been helpfull for those in need and I have found many answers by searching the forum. Good luck with the repairs. Chas

Lets see, your asking quiet a bit of info. Ill try and sum up the main differences in the questions: 1: The lower compression will make a difference in power and you will notice. Like Leon says, that doesnt mean it wont work, just not perform like it could. 2: the 280Z came out with a L28 engine with block code N42 and the head code N42. N42 Head: Silicon/bronze valve seats. An "external" spray bar to lubricate the cam. Square shaped exhaust ports. About August 1977 they changed the head to the N47 to comply with tougher emmisions in California. The main changes are: Steel valve seats to be able to use unleaded fuel. Emmision chambers. An internally lubricated cam. Drillings through the cam allow oil via the bearing journals to the cam lobes. Round "diamond" shaped exhaust ports with a steel liner to increase heat for better emmision control. There is also a maxima N47 head which is different. It has smaller closed chambers and can be identified by an extra sensor port between spark plugs 5 and 6. 3: If you choose to go for a N42 head you will need the exhaust manifold with square ports. Your cam will work on the N42 head, but its not advisable to mix match parts in the valve train. If you do you need to check lash pad paterns etc. 4: all heads after the N47 come with internal oiled cams. 5: The common mod for P90 (en P79) heads on earlier blocks it to shave 2mm of the head, raise the cam towers 2 mm to correct the vavle timing and fit the valves from a N42 or N47 head (there stems are 2mm longer). This raises the compression and gives you a good chamber design for better performance. Its a lot of work and for a standard engine not worth the effort. Since you are thinking of using this head the way it is, my advice would be to trade it for a N47 head and go from there. The trade should not cost you much if anything since the P79 is more sellable then the N47. Chas

I know where captain is going with his question. The P79 came on the F54 block with flat top pistons. Your engine is a N42 with dished pistons. The dish form is about 10.9cc. The chambers on the heads for the N47 44.6cc and the P79is 53.5cc. Putting this head on your block will lower the compression from 8.3:1 down to 7.8:1. You need a N47 or a N42 with exhaust manifold and preferably with cam because the N42 uses an externally oiled cam. Your N47 uses a internally oiled cam through drillings in the cam. There are plenty of N47 heads around. Most performance buffs wont touch them, but for normal street use they do the job just fine. Remember to check for cracking around the valve seats among other things like warping and shaved head gasket surface. Chas

Thats bad luck with the crack in nr. 4. You didnt mention which head codes you have? 280Z will have a N42 or a N47. They are not the same, the N47 has round exhaust ports, emmision liners in the exhaust ports and an internal oiled cam. The N42 is considered the better of the two. The N47 is known to have problems of cracking around the vavle seats. Dont scrape the carbon of the pistons, it can get down in the rings are scratch the bore. Best left alone Chas

The fan turn out great. Looks like new. Did you have the blue color mixed? It looks pretty dam close to original on the photos. My spray cans looked like yours too. I have a different brand and if its not warm you only get to use half the can before it clogs up. That was frustrating because I then end up one can short to complete the job on the inside floor:angry:.

Hi Chris, You are not alone when you say this work is frustrating. The last head liner I did took me so much time and I was nether completly satisfied with it. Your project is coming along nicely though. It will give you a good feeling when you start the engine for the first time. Your at a point where most of us take years to get to, and some give up before they get there. You spent one winter doing a complete resto and I just did the brakes and PU bushings. Just amazing. Chas

I would like to add a couple of pointers to Fastwomans tips. I generally dont pay too much attention to the pressure Im reading, but more the difference between the readings. You dont know how accurate the compression tester is. My tester was way off when I check it at my work on our calibration bench. It was reading 135psig and the test unit read 150psig. If the vavle adjustment doesnt help much you could try a couple of squirts of engine oil down the plug hole. If rings are worn that will increase the compression. Dont use too much or it will cover the valves as well. This is just an indication. To really pin point the leakage you will need to do a leak down test. Goodluck. Chas Edit: Have you downloaded the FSM XenonS30

One thing to keep in mind is lightening the flywheel. The standard flywheel is made for general use so even Grandma can change gear without getting wiplish. There are some drawings in other threads in this forum showing where to take metal off to lighten the flywheel. My car is standard EFI and they dont like to many mods, but the flywheel made it a lot more responsive. Chas

I have had that problem with globs dripping of the can and making a mess of the floor. The spray can works a lot better if its warm. I warmed it up in a bucket of hot water to about 40degC and it worked a lot better. Your project is coming along nicely. Chas

I tried one of those piston kits on my 7/8" MC and had similar problems. The piston cups were a little different so I couldnt use them on the original piston in my original MC. Ended up buying a new Beck/arnley from RockAuto. Being brakes I just didnt trust it anymore. For the caliper I have used an old brake line and I brassed an old uni-joint grease nipple in the other end of the brake line. I filled the caliper up with engine oil. I was replacing all the rubber components anyway. You need to get all the air out, otherwise you will be compressing air and using a lot of grease. After you get if out you can clean the oil and grease out. Chas

The white tape is on the temperature sensor (guage). Gold tape is on the thermotime. Green tape is temp sensor for the EFI. Yellow ? I have heard its used as a thermo switch for an electric fan, but I can say for sure. The link in siteunseens post has a couple of good drawings showing the layout as well. Chas

Hi Millertime, Welcome to the club and forum. You can download the FSM (factory service manual) from Xenon30 XenonS30. If you scroll down you willalso find a handy Fuel Injection Troubleshooting manual in the "Other Guides" section. Lookslike you will have to take the head off. If you are lucky its just a head gasket, but I would be preparedfor more problems. Goodluck Chas

I agree 100% with Willoughby. Safety first. The piston can turn into a projectile like you wouldnt beleive is possible. I would put the caliper back together, fill it with fluid and fit a tube with grease nipple and push it out with a grease gun. Use a block of wood between the two good pistons and a clamp on the other good piston opposite the seized piston. If the clamp wont hold, you can use a piece of pipe (same length as piston) which will fit over the piston and a thick metal plate to stop the other piston entering the pipe. The free piston will push it over the seized piston and stop. That will give you enough room to push the poston into the pipe. There is a mix of ATM fluid & Acetone that does wonders for freeing up stuff. Give that a chance to soak in. Goodluck Chas

Dont forget to center the clutch disc before tightening the pressure plate? It sounds simple but people have dont it.:stupid: Chas

i was just looking through MSA z store and seen these slave cylinders. The 71/72 had adjustable rods. That would explain the spring on your system before you changed over to the new transmission. Chas Motorsport! Clutch Slave Cylinders - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

Come to think about it, I dont see the point of it except giving you excessive free play by overcoming the small internal spring in the slave cylinder and pushing the rod/piston all the way to the back of the slave cylinder. Maybe Im missing something? It would defeat the purpose of the internal spring which is there to take out the free play and adjust to clutch plate wear. To use a external spring you would need an adjustable rod and check it at regular intervals and adjust it for the clutch plate wear. Chas

I think the column can compress by 12cm, which doesnt help much when the rack is position up front where the action is in such a situation.

The E-Fast system shows p/n: 30533-21010 for the spring on all manual models, but my 280Z doesnt have one either. I also cant see any place to connect the spring to on the slace cylinder or the fork.

4th popping out only happens on de-acceleration? The problem with 4th sounds like too much end play between the input and output shafts. Im no specialist on roadster transmissions. Sure to be someone in the forum that knows them. Chas

You can check to see if the clutch pedal is adjusted correctly. I dont have a FSM handy, but from memory it should have a small amount of free travel and the total travel is around 220mm or maybe 230mm? That should translate to about 35mm slave cylinder stroke. The slave cylinder rod should move in and out when you pump the clutch. If that doesnt happen then something is wrong with the slave or the master cylinder. You can dismantle them easy, but if something is wrong inside you can better order a new set. If that all works fine: The slave cylinder should have about 10mm "free" play. The slave cylinder has a internal spring to remove any free play. It should compress about 10 - 15mm, This "free" play is to compensate for clutch plate wear. If you have a lot more than that you could have a problem with the clutch fork. Can you remove the rubber boot and inspect the clutch fork for cracks? Its hard to see inside and get a clear view. Replacing the fork requires removing the transmission. Chas

It probably wouldnt help safety much at all, but then again these cars wouldnt score well in a crash test anyway. The one I have seen that was in a front ender had the frame rails up through the floor. I dont know if the square tubing would bend upward through the bonnet? I dont think Chris will want to put it to the test for usLOL Chas

The engine looks and sounds good, must feel great having it back together again.

Not sure if I understand your question correctly. It sounds like your slave cylinder piston popped out. If that happened there are several things that could cause it like your slave cylinder, clutch fork, pivot or thrust bearing. Since the slave piston pushed out, the master cylinder is most probably still ok. I have seen a clucth slave cylinder seize up with gunk where the piston had so much resistance that it would not travel all the way back. The master cylinder would then fill up with extra fluid and eventually pushed the slave cylinder piston out. A cracked clutch fork can also cause this. Chas

Hi Bart, did you get the clutch master cylinder in NL? Just wondering. If I cant get parts from the nissan dealer I generally end up buying in the US at Rock Auto or MSA. They are the ones with the best shipping rates to NL IMO. Chas