grannyknot

The hacksaw methods only drawback is it is very hard to keep the blade level and easy to cut into the control arm metal. After you get the cut fairly deep you take a small sharp chisel and start peeling the sleeve in toward the center, then when the sleeve is knocked out clean up any nicks or cuts with a round file and press in the new bushing in. Just remember that the two control arms have to be mirror images of each other and not identical, I'm sure I'm not the only guy who had to go buy a third bushing after screwing it up

I don't know for sure what his reasons were, maybe he doesn't like high beams that are brighter than stock. But it is a great site with lots of good info.

If anyone is ordering H4 bulbs from Daniel Stern don't make the mistake of trying to order a brighter bulb from him, I tried to order a couple of 80/55 and I was cut off like that, "No more soup for you!" Even though I had ordered lots of stuff from him before he never replied to me again. You've been warned

Are you going to burn out the rubber and hacksaw the outer sleeve or press the old bushing out?

That's good to hear, if you can get the bike cable through and come out the other end try a couple of winds of electrical tape/masking tape about 2" from the end of the cable and flay the end so it looks like a bottle brush, start the drill and maybe you can roto router the crap out. Just thinking out loud, might work.

This might give you some ideas, http://kyushashoes.com/

Do you have a line trimmer, string trimmer, weed wacker in the garage?

Yes post some pics, if you are using a 3 ohm coil you don't need the ballast resistor. It has been 5-6 yrs since I did this but in my case it was swapping the 2 B/W wires around that got the tach working. This issue has been covered many times in the past and there are also some good wiring diagrams in the archives.

Steel wool above the cam? Maybe one of these would work,

No I haven't, I have a complete set of oxy/acet welding tips that I safely put away...somewhere in the shop, very well hidden. Had to use a cutting torch tip to braze John's exhaust manifold, It can be done.

Johnny, welcome and congrats, that's a nice solid looking car you picked up. I'm looking forward to your updates. I hope you're are going to keep and restore those wheels, they look so period, always been one of my favorites.

Isn't that a bit clean for Max's taste? I'll bet the guys that own those interceptors hate the association their cars have with the Mad Max franchise, badass car though. Well, Jody still has the car, going into the second week now, he's not happy with a section of the roof so is respraying the whole roof, says it's going to be a few more days until I get it back. I've cleaned up the shop, put another coat of paint on the floor, overhauled the drill press, done maintenance on all the vehicles... I'm going to be oiling the kitchen cupboard hinges soon if I don't find something to fix. I'm going to have to get busy the minute I get it back putting on the rest of the trim, bumpers, badging, to get it ready for Zfest on the 23rd.

Thanks Jay, I appreciate it. Maybe a real Ratsun this time, Cliff has commissioned me to build him a Rat Rod out of this car but no money has shown up in my paypal account yet, that's strange. That would be a lot of fun, I have thought about it for years but I'm not as immortal as I use to be.

Thanks guys, not sure about the block yet but the head is p79, the seller says the engine has flat tops and was freshly rebuilt in 2013 and has not been started yet, 0 miles. We removed the SU's and intake today before pulling the engine and there was gritty sand in the intake runners so I hope Alex (the new owner) is going to tear the engine down before starting it.

There is a young guy in the next town over from me and he has started the restoration of a 1971 240Z, the car came with an L28 in it with this pulley, I've never seen one like it but I have limited knowledge of the 280z series. It is the disk on the back I have never seen before.

There is a great BBQ restaurant in Moab UT called Blues,Brews and BBQ's, best applewood smoked brisket I've ever had.

I don't know what those clear filters are made of these days but only about 10 yrs ago it was just cheap pot metal under the chrome, I had one disintergrate on me, well not on me, on top of a Ford 302 V8. I had all the pockets of the Edelbrock intake manifold full of boiling gasoline, the engine was hot and I was sure the whole car was going to go up in flames any second. The pot metal threads just let go with no warning, I'll never use one again and every time I see one I have to give my little blurb. Pot metal is crap and doesn't belong on a gas filter, hope yours is made of something stronger.

I use to think POR15 was the catsass and I have used it a lot but if not applied EXACTLY as they recommend you will end up with problems. Now I have gone back to 2 part epoxy primmer and virtually any top coat just as most pro paint shop do. As has already been mentioned, Prep is everything.

I'm with Sweaty, good quality sound and thermal insulation properly installed is a wonderful thing and won't affect the value of the car since it isn't stock anymore, just make it a nice place to hang out in.

Beautiful colour, fun engine but I think once you get it home you should carve out some time and money to strip the car to the shell and fix all the rust, there is going to be more than what you see right now that is for sure. Personally, I can't relax until the rust has been taken care of. You are certainly not going to find many cars like that at your local show and shine, congrats.

Yet another fragile ego.

I'm kinda disappointed with that Xenon airdam, without addtional support it doesn't do much but bend. I would like to get one of these, They are in Australia and so far I can't get them to respond to an email, shipping would be a killer which is probably why they are not responding. Skillard has done a very nice job on that splitter but because my steering rack has been lowered I would have to modify it to fit so I will have a go at building my own if I don't hear back from Topstage. @rturbo 930, yes I have been through that aero section on Hybridz, fascinating stuff, I would like to correct the problem by conventional means first if I can, that gaping maw at the front might not be very aerodynamic but it does look great and I don't want to mess with the beautiful lines of the car too much. But I will have to get a rear spoiler not only for the down force but the exhaust fumes are killing me. During the resto I sealed every possible opening at the back of the car and I have the muffler tips extending way beyond the bumper and I'm still getting gassed with exhaust with the windows open.

But even lifted of the ground the original hoses weren't that tight, Centric is trying save a few pennies on the cost of the hose.

The engine I have is an s38b35 from an American M6 which was de tunned to 260hp from the Euro version, the NA version was quite constricted at the intake and exhaust along with a catalytic convertor and undersized fuel injectors plus a rudimentary FI system. So with the megasquirt FI system, oversized fuel injectors, doubled the size of the intake hole, eliminating the cat and installing 3.5" flow thru exhaust system I'm hopping for 280-290hp but I'll find out when I dyno it. Also, Markus Glarner did the rebuild on the engine, he is one of a small handful of guys in NA that are considered qualified to tackle these engines so I know it was done right. The engine now has 4,500 miles on it since the rebuild so is broken in and ready to "deliver my list of demands"

Took it down to Matt's shop about 10 days ago, he got the engine performing like it never did with the old Motronic ECU when it was in the M6, scared the crap out of myself on the way home, fastest car I have ever driven! Gets a little floaty at high speed so I may have to try a splitter and/or a rear spoiler, I should probably try a bit more toe in as well. The car has been up at Jody's all week getting the wet sanding/buffing done, I will be at Zfest rain or shine, see you there.