grannyknot

That exact sound drove me crazy too, I found a few things contributed to it. A brake pedal that was out of adjustment, new brake pads, adjustment of the master cylinder plunger and the pedal stop bolt, some heavy grease at the pivot points on the pedal to take up some of the slop of wear and some upholstery foam stuffed into the brake and clutch pedal return springs. Those springs kind of echo when the pedals are released quickly.

Very possible but I don't see how at the moment. I got my engine hoist back yesterday so will remove the hood today and start prepping to pull it.

Soon to find out, I hope it is just a bearing. I'm thinking I might get the oil in the pan analyzed in case it holds any clues... other than shards of metal of course

Stealthy. So what was it about the AP calipers that you liked more than the standard Wilwood stuff?

Nice bling

Maybe for the kind of vibration that a rocket generates but I don't remember ever having a split/lock washer be the cause of a nut backing off, I have seen lots lock washers crack or spread from over torquing though.

Well my driving season is over for the year, I guess I was just having too much fun at the track, think I spun a bearing on the crank, really horrible sound. Everything was great, car was performing perfectly, brakes were holding up and I even passed a Viper. Then that sound happened so limped off the track and called the flatbed. Hopefully I will be able to save the crank, I'll let you know when I crack it open.

Nice work! I see you used Speedhut gauges as well.

There was a noticeable difference but I also did the nylon steering puck change at the same time as the caster change so when I did the next test drive all I could really perceive was "just a better feel." While I'm at the track tomorrow I'll try to find one of the older racers and see if he will take my car out for a lap or two and give me some feedback. Already have a few small scratches on the rockers from gravel being thrown up by the tires so applied some 3m protective film to the lower sections.

That's just BS, trust your Dad. Many of us here have restored our tanks using POR15 or Red Kote and they fine. It is easy to get overwhelmed with all the little stuff that pops up on these cars, try and focus on one problem at a time. You have been given some very good advice, go through each method that has been suggested and report back on what you found when you tried it. Try not to get too stressed it will just cloud your thinking.

I received two gland nuts with my last order.

Ya, but isn't that in CDN dollars? In USD that's $140-150

So here is .4" or 1 degree of washers on the T/C rod to move the left side strut out to about 3 degrees of caster, after installation the car handled well at high speed and felt predictable. Just enough thread left, Had to get creative to find enough room to get my fingers in there and start the nut down the threads, also had to get my biggest clamp out to squish the bushings enough. Thread locker was squirted on after the nut was torqued.Also changed out the original rubber steering joint for a solid nylon one, I'm ready for the track.

I bought a set of Tokico Illuminas from these guys last winter, they also have online sales, https://www.whiteheadperformance.com/?s=tokico+shocks&post_type=product

Type 1, nice and simple.

No, I'll just take it for a high speed run and see how it feels, Whitehead has a set of T3 T/C rods on the shelf that we will install next week while it is on the alignment rack

@zKars that's a smart looking battery set up you have there.

Looks like your own little Mercury capsule, If you have enough sound mat it is good to cover all the metal behind the dash, the hollow bulkhead on the other side where the wiper motor and linkage is can be echo-y.

Thanks Chas, just enough rope here to hang myself Captain, I will need after market adjustable T/C rods to get to 4-5* caster but I'm just trying to tweak it enough to get through a track day on the 20th of Aug. using the stock T/C rods, so .3" of washers on the D/S will at least equal them out. True it is 18" from the shock nut to the wheel center but the T/C rod is attached to the top of the ball joint that 5-6" South of the wheel center line, that might mean I'll need a bit more than .3", what do you think?

Correction, those caster numbers are in fact positive (never trust the word of the kid running the alignment rack). The tops of the strut are behind the ball joint angling forward. So a fairly thick washer added against the shoulder of the T/C rod on the D/S should get me in the ball park.

Positive! Yikes, I'm going to have to add an inch to the T/C rod to get that, I guess I better start looking for aftermarket T/C rods. My worst caster setting is neg -2.9* and I need to make that pos 4.0* Can anyone tell me what 7 degrees of movement translates into in inches?

Having a blast, are you going to the track day at Mosport next week? I'll be there, still trying to tweak the alignment. I have been going to cruise nights and 2 cars shows per weekend. Had one of those show plates made up at a tuner show on the weekend, Took the car to an alignment shop just to get an idea where everything was sitting after all that surgery, Front Left Right Difference Caster -1.8* -2.9* -1.1* Camber -0.8* -1.0* -0.2* Toe 0.0 0.0 0.0 Rear Left Right Difference Camber -1.0* -1.1* -0.1* Toe -0.40* -0.69* -0.29* So I have to figure out what to do about the caster, need to study up on it. Had it appraised and sent all the stuff to the classic car insurance and only then realized I had never put road insurance on it, just some fire/theft. 1000 kms of with no coverage, Opps

I ordered 4 of the taller rota caps from ebay but you still have to give the grease caps a couple of whacks with a hammer to squish them down about 1/8th" then the caps fit perfectly.

Down and dirty works, that's why we keep going back to it

No, that's just lazy journalism.