grannyknot

Christmas in July ? Drove down to the border this morning to p/u my RockAuto order.

I would start by removing the pedal box, console, steering wheel ... then all the stock sound deadening and any fiber glass that was added so you can clearly see where the rust starts. Cutting the rust out of the floor pan first allows you to keep the rigidity of the frame rail until the floor is repaired, the rail under the floor pan is pretty easy to remove but if you can save the angled part of the rail that is visible in your pic then do so. That part of the frame is complicated and difficult to replicate as it ties together several areas.

Your on.

double post

I think I'll have that inscribed on my head stone. The glass bead wet blaster is worth having just for the aluminum parts,

So the AAR is actuated by temperature alone? Once it is closed off by internal heating and/or coolant plate how does the engine get air at idle? I guess I'm assuming that the AAR is serving the same function as an IAC (idle air control)

Eager Beaver

I'm not seeing much ineptitude in those pics, the dogleg patch is perfect.

If you bought it yrs ago then maybe it's from another batch, the rockers they have been producing in the last few yrs tend to have this problem.

It is, that is one of the problems with Tabco rocker replacements, it's also why you find a 1/4" of Bondo/filler on those rockers replacments to take up the room. That is probably the best way to fix it for real. That's looking good, don't just tease us lets see the rest of the car

Exactly ^ but Tabco's rear deck plate for the hatch is a drop in and weld. But what are going to do, they are the only game in town.

One of them has snapped off and it was already moving, I could turn it back and forth about a 1/4 turn, then it snapped I would like to keep it just because it came with one but I may have to block it off, long way from that decision. It really was a filthy job and the carbon and crap that came out of that heating chamber under the manifold, there was a pile of it. 1977 Color Wiring Diagram Version M.pdf To continue on with what madkaw was asking, I'm realizing the EGR system is more elaborate than I first thought. The EGR controller at the end and moving toward the front next the BPT valve which is also heated by the same exhaust tube as the EGR, then vacuum tubes leading to the thermal vacuum valve that is on the end of the Idle Air Control Heater. If I do delete the EGR how much of the rest of the chain needs to be removed?

I little victory today, I would never have got this spacer off while the intake was still on the engine,

Big job, about the only thing you get a free ride on is the shift knob, looking forward to watching the transformation. Oh just found the close up pic of the shift knob, scratch that.

Cancer is right, you will want to fix that section completely before moving to the next area so as not to weaken any part of the unibody too much. Looks good

Drill out those spot welds.

I don't know about the other companies but the Tabco rocker will replace B I'm pretty sure A is part of the dog leg structure which is why it doesn't show in the floor section to the left, but turn it around and it will be there. disepyon's thread will show you everything. It is part of the inner rocker and disepyon is I think the only guy making those pieces.

$28.00 from Rockauto, thanks CO

That is the 2nd time it has happened, no idea what is going on but with the tiny amount of traffic that uses the forum they're probably in no rush to fix it. Damn that Facebook?

That is the first good photo of the brake master heat shield that I have seen, it was missing on my 77 when I got it, now at least I know what I'm looking for. Thanks

The minimum temp for powder coating is 325 F. that I have seen. Now that you mention the black surround I remembered that it originally it was painted a dark silvery grey, at the least that was the colour for the 240's

72/240z = 39 5/8th" this car has had a minor front end collision, 77/280z = 39 1/4" no front end damage that I can see.

I like electrical cords hanging off my power tools

Thanks guys, some good suggestions, spent a couple of hours on it today, BFH, heated multiple times with Map gas, cooled with wd40, little more BFH ,rinse repeat, so far it is not very impressed with my efforts. I'll keep it up for a few more days. Phillip, that would be great, would appreciate that. I may get to that yet. This is the next step if the heating/cooling doesn't work. Blind from the top. I may just wait until I can pull the intake manifold and get easy access to both sides. Started working on the tail lights, the chromed bezels are pretty trashed but he plastic base is solid. I tried a test using Duplicolor Chrome rattle can paint, well it is not going to fool anyone but it is presentable I think. Anyone have other ideas? Plastic chrome plating is awfully expensive for such a small part but I'm open to ideas.

I did something really stupid today, it was working fine and I should have left it alone. So I snapped the rusted nuts off the rusted studs holding the EGR assembly to the intake manifold. Some how I have to get the EGR spacer off on the studs, get the corroded studs out of the aluminum manifold without destroying everything