Jump to content


Supporting Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


grannyknot last won the day on August 3

grannyknot had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,148 Excellent


About grannyknot

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Map Location
  • Occupation
    Automobile restorer for fun

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    HLS30U01955 March of 1970 240z about to under go a complete resto mod.<br />
    1987 BMW M6<br />
    1974Triumph TR6<br />
    1966 Ford Mustang

Recent Profile Visitors

7,677 profile views
  1. Yes, but his customers and many other bidders want to spend too much, they want the best, they want the price to hurt a bit, they are not really looking for a "deal". It's all about preceived quality and all of us succumb to it at some point it's just these guys have deeper pockets than you and me. It's like a self sustaining bubble that bursts occasionally, sort of like the housing market. But hey, it's their money and god bless'em.
  2. Well my 1977 280z goes live on BaT in about 2 weeks, so far they are really easy to work with.
  3. That head bolt must be removed, otherwise you are just wasting your time.
  4. I guess I'm the one with a different console.
  5. Lid on the console? My early 77/280z does not have that, maybe you have an aftermarket arm rest? I believe the console and interior panels are made of ABS. ABS glue and JB Weld work well on them, if the crack is long then a bandage of fiberglass cloth embedded into the JB Weld gives it some strength.
  6. I don't know Cliff, that's going to make you sound... respectable. Do you think you can pull it off?
  7. There should be a thin metal sleeve on the plastic post on the back of the emblem, take the sleeves off the post and insert them into the holes then install the emblem into those sleeves. You can also use double stick trim tape.
  8. How did the valve guide seals look? I'm still thinking about your blue smoke.
  9. There are some after market attachments that claim they can turn your pressure washer into a wet blaster with a siphon for sand but they don't get very good reviews and from what I have read most people never get them to work. There are mini hand held dry sand blasters but you still need a decent compressor with 12-15 CFM.
  10. I've been hearing for the past year that the Illumina shocks are no longer available for Z cars, I have a set and they are good but as soon as one fails I'll be going with the Konis. Eibach lowering springs are one of the most popular springs for our cars for a reason, they work. I used to have a set of the Tokico lowering springs and I was bottoming out just like you describe, but no problems with the Eibach springs. Bump stops are very important, the hard urethane are practically useless for cushioning, when the shock hits them it really does STOP. But the newer urethane foam bump stops are a different ball game, they are progressive, Koni makes a good urethane foam bump stop as well.
  11. The easiest way I 've found is just to look at the threads heading into the nut, they will be sloped in one direction, turn the nut so it will climb the slope away from where it is now.
  12. Sorry, I didn't mean to minimize the blue smoke, used the wrong term. I only only mention the compression/LD numbers because it is so easy to get lost chasing problems that may not be there. Regardless, there are many conditions that could cause a low reading but the only condition that could cause an artificially high reading would be wet oil in the cylinder and 5/6 in your photos look dry.
  13. I love the shadow line effect on the SS trim, good choice of mirrors, I love mine.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.